Wording Emails for the Deal? [How To Negotiate]

A lot of my email conversations with dealerships tend to bog down with them doing anything to get me to come in or run an online credit approval application. I may be wrong but when I do that credit approval process it will put a mark on my report and I don’t want to space these out too far apart from when I plan to make my deal (next 2-3 weeks)

Nothing ever really comes out after that. I haven’t even truly gotten to the part about getting better discounts off of MSRP they just do not want to do any deals through email. This is the South East so maybe it’s just ingrained in the old system to get you to come in to strong arm deals, i’m not sure.

Any tips on how to better word emails or specific ways to basically tell them I want to do a deal mostly through email then finalize in person in better terms? I tried it on two dealerships and they just stopped responding. (since Monday)


Research the deal you want (can find one here) and ask if they can do it. If I don’t get an email back I call them sometimes to get the back rolling. But absolutely no credit check until every detail is worked out and you are ready to sign.


It helps to take the work out of the deal for them (Knowing what you want, and to that end a specific VIN) and of course be informed about the lease program applicable including MF, RV, Incentives.

When targeting a specific discount keep in mind that a unit that was just listed isn’t going to get the same discount as the one that’s been listed for months on end, particularly ones close to, or over a year old.


Auto finance inquiries made within 30 days are scored by FICO as one inquiry.


Besides, inquiries have almost zero impact on your creditworthiness.


“absolutely no credit check until every detail is worked out and you are ready to sign.”
This is where you start…you may have to go through a lot of dealers but this is the basic first step or you will keep getting the same results

I did not understand the window was that long. Thanks for the link and information.

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If they’re not interested in negotiating a deal on my terms, I move on to the next dealer.

My terms aren’t onerous. Email only - they don’t even get my phone number until we get close enough to warrant a call. Also, no credit checks until we agree. I know my FICO Auto 8 score and I tell them what it is.

I can be the easiest and fastest deal for them to close, and, knowing that I won’t overpay on a vehicle, they should be aiming for easy and fast.


I am going to have to look more outside of my immediate 40 mile area i’ve been searching. I’ve come to find out that a lot of these dealerships are owned by the same family which was a shock at first since the websites are not all the exact same.

I’m never rude in my emails but that’s exactly what I want, fast and simple on a good deal.

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Be ready to go up to 150 miles.


Yeah I have expanded my search by a lot and starting to get some more responses to work with.

That’s the most annoying thing, when they consistently ask you to come in. I refuse to, I tell them I want numbers on the phone, no walk ins until then. Next time I’ll try the email route but to me sometimes that takes too long. They usually come back with numbers on the phone within mins. I get to feel them out and see where they are. Then I’ll play one against the other.


I also find the phone, although less pleasant than email, more effective. Dealership knows they are dealing with real person and you seem more serious. What I have done last few times is get a Costco car buying quote (Costco requires participating dealerships to give this to you upon request, even via email). Then I submit a request for pricing on car via website of different dealership. They invariably call back with a terrible quote. I say thanks but Costco no haggle quote is way lower and we are too far apart. Costco is at $xxxxx.

Almost every dealership calls back within an hour beating the Costco price and the game is on. You don’t need Costco but I find that their written quote via email gets you half way to target price in just a couple minutes. Dealers hear it/see sheet and know they have to compete or drop out of contest.


I am a costco business member. I’ll have to look at their website I hadn’t realized costco had some kind of price agreement structure. Could save me some hassle in the long run!

Yes. To be clear, I’m not suggesting using the Costco car buying program. But just their guaranteed hassle free offer sheet as a jumping off point. It’s cuts through the BS fat and gets you a fair price to negotiate down further (we of course want a great price).

Attached is the sample I got for an Accord.


@EC99 - Similar to you, I treat the Costco Price as the ceiling and then try to negotiate as low of a floor as possible.


The Costco price I got from a dealer on a 750 in May was preposterously bad.

Like from a sewer on another galaxy bad.

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Hey Everyone,

Looking to lease for the first time.

Do I just email dealerships saying “Hi I’m interested in a lease for under $300” ? Seems like a good way of getting a bad deal (stating I’m willing to pay 300) or do you have a different format approach before even talking about a lease?

Find out which car you want. Figure out what a a realistic payment on that car is. Then inquire about that specific car.


FOLP (Fear of low payment) is a thing and may cause you to get no reply… Don’t shop by payment, shop by selling price before incentive.


Most dealers aren’t going to be receptive to asking them to find you a car for $300/month when they don’t even know what you’re looking for. If you’re going to do that do it in person, but in that case if they can do $300/month they’ll probably give you a model they could’ve sold for less.

You need to know which car you want and what price they’re leasing at.

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