Instead of a manufacturer being sexist is it possible that you dug to find research that supports a price that isn’t all too legit? KBB and Truecar show price ranges that the car has been purchased in recently however a lot of the really low-end prices are from sales where the dealership is stealing the trade-in.
Kudos to you for doing research and putting in the time however if you made an offer to 6 different places and they all said no you may be the common denominator.
Honestly we get like 10 “what do I do because I’m not getting good discounts like other people are” questions a week. That’s why your thread was merged into this one which discusses negotiating extensively. You being a woman likely has absolutely nothing to do with it.
If the dealers in your area aren’t negotiating and are staying firm at 4.5% off, either change up your negotiating style, cast a wider net, accept your best offer, hire a broker or move on. I don’t know what region you’re in but some are much more difficult than others.
There are folks who maintain the stance that some facet of their being is the whole reason that things large and small don’t go as they desire. It sometimes becomes a sort of self-fulfilling prophecy, and it sometimes fades away.
TBH, I’ve had just as many ignore me, refused to discuss numbers over email unless I came in, etc… and I’m male. They lose my business and I move on to someone else.
Nobody is entitled to a specific discount, period. It’s their job to sell the car for as much as possible, and your duty to find someone that will sell at a price you feel is fair. The more discount you ask, the more people will ignore you. You either cave, continue to look at other dealers further away, or look at something completely different.
This site can give some unrealistic expectations it’s easy peasy to just get x discount on a car. Truth is, it takes work, and is extremely rare for it to be handed to you on a silver platter.
This. I’m blacklisted at more dealers than I can count, but no one that I really care about. I’m always respectful, but very firm. If they don’t like it, I move on. Nothing personal.
Second time leasing a car and want to be more educated about the process. Can any experienced buyers help?? I went in recently to Audi. Dealer didn’t take me seriously and told me to “build a model and email me tonight, I’ll see what I can do.” basically to get me out the door. No response after that.
Can someone explain how to utilize the site to get a better deal or just some basic negotiating tactics? How has this platform helped others “hack” a better deal? Please explain!
Spend some time reading deals on comparable Audis here. Look at some of the brokers for comparison. You’re trying to work out what is a target pre-incentive/rebate dealer discount. Use edmunds to find the rv/mf/incentives for the vehicle you’re looking for in your zip code. Contact a dealer regarding a specific stock number vehicle they have and tell them what you’re looking to pay based on the info you got in your research.
The key, in my opinion, to getting a good deal is to be very well educated regarding every aspect of the deal.
Thanks…I guess my issue now is how to word negotiations. How do you start negotiating the MF (if that’s even a thing) I feel like a NY dealer would laugh if you even bring up the idea. They’re all on their high horse. Very foreign concept to me but have to do my research. Unfortunately it looks like the car I have my eye on doesn’t lease well.
Well that’s why I merged this into a giant thread discussing how to negotiate. If you’re afraid to even ask for MF, probably just hire a broker.
This is where being well educated on the deal helps. If you know what the buy rate MF is, you know if the dealer is marking up the MF or not. If they are, you know to either tell them no or negotiate a larger discount as a result. If they won’t budge on marking up the MF/discounting accordingly, you know to find another dealer.
this may not be the right thread…but I am trying to figure out how to choose the lease months…24 instead of 36…or even 39…how do I know which month offers the best deal? or does it not matter?
You need to find out the RV for each term and calculate the payment. Or the dealer can do it for you. Personally I’d pay a little more for a shorter term lease.
A shortcut would be to find out which term is being offered in dealer/broker ads for the vehicle you’re interested in. They will always pick the term that results in the lowest monthly.
Some makes such as GM may also vary MF by term.
Thank you.
It’s the 21st century, I’ve used every form of communication possible and always gotten the deal I”ve been satisfied with because I’m in control. I’ve emailed, Called and even Texted. The idea that Emailing IS the only way is Ludicrous.
I usually don’t disclose anything more than The vehicle I’m interested and the options I want and the lease term desired. They will usually reply with please come in to the dealer BS. Remind them politely that your time is valuable and you respect their time as well therefore you will refuse to go unless u have agreed on a price and Terms. Make sure they send you get an email of the terms before you go to avoid any bait and switch crap.
What’s up with the random capitalization?
I am having the same problem! The GT Reserve is only around 2000$ more than the GT, but it’s at least 100$ more a month lease!!! What the hell! I got many quotes over 500/month for the GT Reserve in Western PA.
MF is much higher with the jump to the GT reserve - .00085 compared to .00001.
Don’t tip toe around the question.
I always ask by second email
Please send me your best price and include
Msrp
Selling price before rebates
Rebates to be applied
Money factor
Residual value
Monthly
Thank you kindly
Pretty much every dealership gets that. Then I work the best 2-3
Been using the search function to look at how to word emails to dealers to begin negations. For example I’ve been looking at BMW 440i x drive Gran Coupes for sale. From what I’ve seen on the forum I should be targeting a 20% dealer discount prior to incentives.
My typical email says the following:
Hello,
I’m interested in your loaner 4 series stock number xxxxxx. Looking to get know if it’s still for sale and seeing as it’s a loaner and a 2019 would you accept a 20% discount before incentives?
How does the above email come across? Any tips? I usually just get a no that’s too much of a discount or if I see a car that’s a good price they have rolled in the lease cash and loyalty already.
Any suggestions would be awesome
Helping out a friend that is coming out of a Hyundai lease. I have been using the following template and have sent it to about 10-12 dealers so far:
I am helping a friend who is currently coming out of her lease of a 2017 santa fe sport in November. She has been looking at a 2020 Kona SEL AWD and one of your stock numbers, xxxxx, with a MSRP of $xx,xxx was a vehicle that was spec’ed out to her needs.
I know that these are the lease numbers for this month:
36 month, 10k/year term
RV – 59%
Base MF - .00164
Lease Cash - $1,750 + $500 loyalty
I also see there is a $1,000 cash back offer on this stock number
Would you be able to verify that this stock number is still available and if it is, can you please provide a lease worksheet quote for lease terms of 36 months @ 10k/year, including all taxes/fees/etc. rolled in to the monthly payment. She has Tier 1 credit and if the numbers line up, she would be interested in moving forward before the end of the month.
Thanks again for your time and hope to hear from you soon.
I had one dealer reply back with a halfway decent monthly payment with just 1st, reg and DMV so I requested a breakdown of the quote.
Other dealers, seemingly all in NJ (others are in NY), are writing back saying that they do not provide quotes via email .One dealer even wrote me back saying that they have been burned in the past from people shopping their best priced quotes to other dealers and thats why they do not negotiate via email.
I know ultimately I should just move on from the dealer, but what happens if I just get stonewalled across the board?