See, I don’t see novice, I see “PITA.” No offense to OP, but it comes off more as a demand letter than an inquiry.
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I also wouldn’t mention LH at all in any point of negotiations. Dealers may see this as a person who is unrealistic, and simply press delete.
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Curious what folks think about discussing how you’ll take delivery of the car in the email.
I think your response rate will be lower if you are emailing a dealer that is far away if you don’t mention that you’re willing to take the drive, fly in, or will make arrangements for shipping. If I’m a dealer and someone emails me from 400 miles away, I think my odds of actually making the sale are pretty low, regardless of how good of a deal I provide.
Interested in thoughts from @Benedetto and other dealers about this.
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Wtf? This isn’t very complicated. We have the same goal as the dealer outside of price, to buy/sell a car.
Be straightforward, polite, and direct. If they don’t respond, simply move along as they don’t want to play ball. Could be for a million different reasons (they’re ahead of their quota, they’re a crappy dealer that doesn’t negotiate aggressively, they don’t have a lot of stock of a certain vehicle, etc. etc.), move along to one that will negotiate - for every dealer that won’t, there is a dealer that will.
Very rarely are you going to get what you want on the first go round.
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Unless they are a local client, I would put a response to this email on the end of my to do list. It is very generic (I expect 10 other dealers got the same email and/or using this quote for negotiating a deal with your local dealer) and would be a PITA if we made a deal.
Also anyone who states they are a serious buyers or make excuses is not a serious buyer.
Basically here is an email template (change it where applicable) that will start a dialogue and elicit a response rather than auto delete:
I am interested in the 3 series (stock #: 12345) that I saw on your website and wanted to check if it is still available since it has the exact color combination/options/features I am looking for. If it is still available, can you please quote a lease for X miles per year and please included taxes/fees (zip code: 010101 and I currently own X brand). You can reach me at xyz@abc.com or 123-456-7890 (if you want to include your phone).
It is simple, shows you are interested in a specific vehicle, and starts a conversation. Let them give you a quote (it will probably be higher than your expect, do not take it personally) and go from there. You might not get a quote 100% of the time, but it is better than a 5 paragraph essay.
A good response to a quote would be:
Thank you for taking the time to prepare a quote for me but from the research I have performed, I am looking for a more aggressive deal. Based upon my research and the current market, I am looking for a monthly payment of X based on discount of X with a residual of X% and a money factor of X. If we can agree to those terms, I take delivery on DAY.
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Hi folks!! New to the site and first time posting! I moved to the US this year and after using public transportation and saving money and researching the car I want I am ready to lease. I read all the leasing 101 posts and have the basics down of the info I need. This is truly a new phenomenan for me as there’s no leasing in my part of the world!
I am planning on leasing a MB C300 4matic with AMG line (msrp is 52K).
My question is - how do people get the dealer to come down on the selling price? I read a couple of posts where someone went from msrp of 50K to selling price of 38K and I can only get maybe 1K off the msrp (went in to talk to a dealer and was basically told theu don’t haggle)!
Secondly - should I just email dealerships to send me quotes with msrp/selling price, any incentives, residual value and money factor and any MSD I can do so I can do the appropriate calculations? Or is this something I need to do by going in to the dealerships near me?
Thank you for your input and please go easy - doing my best to accumulate knowledge from your expertise without pissing anyone. I did as much reading as I could before I posted!
Outside of the numbers it’s possible lack of credit history could make this a real challenge.
Just keep your eyes on the credit/visa items as well.
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You should be able to find all this info you’ve asked about in this thread.
Don’t go into dealerships except to test drive and/or establish rapport.
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I agree. We’ve read many posts already about people with established credit history getting turned down by MB. You may be too ambitious, @Leaseshy. BMW may not be a problem, though, if you’re looking for a comparable car. Sure there are instances of them turning down first time leases with limited history, too, but my point I’d that MB turns down people with history and good credit.
It’s not just what score you have. It’s also about the longevity if your credit, that you’ve never had a US car loan or lease (many companies will not let you lease with no history), and a combination of other things.
Hi,
so i have a x3 loaner msrp 51000
the car has 4000 miles on it.
the selling price is 46000
and the mf is .00165 suppose to be .00145
how do think i should go about getting the selling price and mf lowered?
Blockquote
-
Ask
If yes, good
If no, see #2 -
Go elsewhere
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lol, i have already reached out to a couple other dealers aswell, i was wondering how can i calculate to decide what a fair percentage below msrp is?
There are many threads on here that talk about a reasonable dealer discount amount for x3 loaners
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can i negotiate a selling price then tell the dealer i want to lease with that selling price?
There are often different incentives based on whether the vehicle is being leased or financed.
When negotiating sale price do you negotiate a number with or without incentives and rebates included?
I spoke (over the phone) to a Sales manager earlier today, I’m trying to negotiate a good deal on a car that’s been sitting on the lot for more than 2 months. I told him I had an offer on a similar car at a different dealership and wanted him to match it. Atlas 4motion se/ w tech Rline MSRP$44,374, I offered 36k (18.9% disc) before incentives and rebates. The dealer has the car listed on their site for $39,974 (9.9% disc). He insisted that the deal I had from the other dealership must be with incentives and rebates included. He wanted to know if I wanted to lease or purchase, I said I’m looking to purchase, but that it shouldn’t matter. He went on to tell me that the incentives are different, I said obviously, but that I’m looking to negotiate a price before incentives and rebates. Now we’re talking in circles, he said he would be highly aggressive if I came in to talk directly with him… thoughts?
Negotiate pre incentives. Also, 19% off an atlas pre incentives is not happening.
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DO NOT COME IN! Dealers treat you like his bitch in their dealership and they know how to let you compromise. Only come in after getting a written agreement or quote.
I prefer being transparent upfront and let the dealer know you are leasing and what incentives you are qualified for. In that case it doesn’t matter the selling price you negotiate is pre or post incentives as long as you and the dealer both work on pre (or post).
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Pre and post incentives doesnt matter as long as you know what rebates/incentives you qualify for. If you know those numbers you can calculate yourself what a dealer is discounting on their end.