this may not be the right thread…but I am trying to figure out how to choose the lease months…24 instead of 36…or even 39…how do I know which month offers the best deal? or does it not matter?
You need to find out the RV for each term and calculate the payment. Or the dealer can do it for you. Personally I’d pay a little more for a shorter term lease.
A shortcut would be to find out which term is being offered in dealer/broker ads for the vehicle you’re interested in. They will always pick the term that results in the lowest monthly.
Some makes such as GM may also vary MF by term.
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Thank you.
It’s the 21st century, I’ve used every form of communication possible and always gotten the deal I”ve been satisfied with because I’m in control. I’ve emailed, Called and even Texted. The idea that Emailing IS the only way is Ludicrous.
I usually don’t disclose anything more than The vehicle I’m interested and the options I want and the lease term desired. They will usually reply with please come in to the dealer BS. Remind them politely that your time is valuable and you respect their time as well therefore you will refuse to go unless u have agreed on a price and Terms. Make sure they send you get an email of the terms before you go to avoid any bait and switch crap.
What’s up with the random capitalization?
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I am having the same problem! The GT Reserve is only around 2000$ more than the GT, but it’s at least 100$ more a month lease!!! What the hell! I got many quotes over 500/month for the GT Reserve in Western PA.
MF is much higher with the jump to the GT reserve - .00085 compared to .00001.
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Don’t tip toe around the question.
I always ask by second email
Please send me your best price and include
Msrp
Selling price before rebates
Rebates to be applied
Money factor
Residual value
Monthly
Thank you kindly
Pretty much every dealership gets that. Then I work the best 2-3
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Been using the search function to look at how to word emails to dealers to begin negations. For example I’ve been looking at BMW 440i x drive Gran Coupes for sale. From what I’ve seen on the forum I should be targeting a 20% dealer discount prior to incentives.
My typical email says the following:
Hello,
I’m interested in your loaner 4 series stock number xxxxxx. Looking to get know if it’s still for sale and seeing as it’s a loaner and a 2019 would you accept a 20% discount before incentives?
How does the above email come across? Any tips? I usually just get a no that’s too much of a discount or if I see a car that’s a good price they have rolled in the lease cash and loyalty already.
Any suggestions would be awesome
Helping out a friend that is coming out of a Hyundai lease. I have been using the following template and have sent it to about 10-12 dealers so far:
I am helping a friend who is currently coming out of her lease of a 2017 santa fe sport in November. She has been looking at a 2020 Kona SEL AWD and one of your stock numbers, xxxxx, with a MSRP of $xx,xxx was a vehicle that was spec’ed out to her needs.
I know that these are the lease numbers for this month:
36 month, 10k/year term
RV – 59%
Base MF - .00164
Lease Cash - $1,750 + $500 loyalty
I also see there is a $1,000 cash back offer on this stock number
Would you be able to verify that this stock number is still available and if it is, can you please provide a lease worksheet quote for lease terms of 36 months @ 10k/year, including all taxes/fees/etc. rolled in to the monthly payment. She has Tier 1 credit and if the numbers line up, she would be interested in moving forward before the end of the month.
Thanks again for your time and hope to hear from you soon.
I had one dealer reply back with a halfway decent monthly payment with just 1st, reg and DMV so I requested a breakdown of the quote.
Other dealers, seemingly all in NJ (others are in NY), are writing back saying that they do not provide quotes via email .One dealer even wrote me back saying that they have been burned in the past from people shopping their best priced quotes to other dealers and thats why they do not negotiate via email.
I know ultimately I should just move on from the dealer, but what happens if I just get stonewalled across the board?
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I think your results would be much better if you say that you’re looking for the vehicle, not your friend, even if that’s not the truth.
That’s what I did for a friend this summer. I didn’t even try with the truth because I was positive they would not treat the email properly. They are probably thinking: Most customers don’t actually know what they really want…does this person really know what their friend wants? Has s/he actually looked at the vehicle, done a test drive, etc.? Does s/he really know which color combos are acceptable/preferable and which are not? Do you really know what their credit is? There are just too many opportunities for things to go wrong.
I represented myself as the one looking for the lease and once all terms were agreed to with the General Manager by phone and email, I said that I was pursing this lease on behalf of a good friend of mine who had been previously burned by a dealer. At the end, as long as you’re bringing them an actual buyer, they don’t care about your deception.
Generally, I’m not a fan of the subterfuge, but ultimately, I decided that it’s all a game and I am indeed bringing them an actual sale. In order to get decent quotes, I have to bend the truth. What do they care?
i found a x3 laoner
msrp is $53,735
selling price before incentives $42,981
odometer is at 4501
the price above is before any negotiating,
i offered the dealership $39000 they rejected no counteroffer or anything what should i reply/do?
You’re at 20% off an X3 and trying to get over 27% off? That’s called asking for too much.
I think you should probably go sign before I find this on Cargurus and go sign it myself.
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you don’t think i can get at least 24 percent off?
Where are you coming up with these numbers? Sure, maybe you can get 24% off. Based on the ghosting you just received, all signs point to no at this particular dealer.
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What if they make a small surprize at 150 miles away? Ahh sorry this car has bla, there is no obligation for them until deal signed. Your down 300 miles two way and 5-6 hours
Typically dealers will ask you to make a $500-1000 deposit and sign a deal sheet or some other non-binding document to ‘secure’ the overall terms of the deal. That type of thing is a reasonable assurance on both sides that the deal is legitimate and the car will be held for you.
It would then take a truly scum bag dealer OR customer to then try to change the deal.
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How can i secure deal without driving to far dealership on my end?
I believe I just explained that, did I not? Deposit and signed something like a deal sheet or a dealer purchase order or whatever. Signed by both customer and sales manager.
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You explained well but i couldn’t figured out how the deal will be signed by customer without going to dealer