Trying to help my brother on a Bolt, anyone know what First Responder offers in terms of benefit / discount?
Iâm not certain, but the loophole seems to be that you signed up AT the store that opened up after 8/31.
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This has been detailed in many of the current Bolt posts here but the short answer is that it depends. On a Premier the supplier price is about $1,400 off. Most likely some of that is dealer contribution. The goal should be to get as deep of a discount as possible and combine it with the supplier code. If a dealer is already going deep on one of these itâs probably worth a few hundred dollars extra towards the deal.
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Thatâs what I had convinced myself last night, purchase versus lease. Autobytel wasnât clear. Cheers!
Rule of thumb for GM: Bonus Cash = Purchase and CCR = Lease.
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And itâs these nuggets that got me to join LH, learning from pros is the only way to go.
Is there a worksheet on this forum, or do you have an example of the type you used/discussed on your trophy deal? Iâm old enough to have graduated college without having touched a computer, so donât know how to do spreadsheets/databases (but I can build puters from scratch, thanks to the interwebs). Misha has responded that I qualify for $1400 Bay Area CCR, and is wanting me to come inâŚ(asked twice already). Using your cue, I should seek 10% off MSRP as an offer before going in.
I basically just used all the inputs from the calculator here. No spreadsheet or anything, I just typed it out so it was neat:
MSRP
Selling price before incentives
Incentives I qualify for
Residual
Money factor
Bank fee
Dealer doc fee
DMV/Misc fees
Total One Pay Cost or Monthly Payment
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You donât need to⌠just use the calculator on this site
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Hey! I can do both of those! lol I had noticed most of the inputs on the calculator had the same elements, but the âyearsâ goal of the calculator left me a bit unsure of its value towards creating an offer. Iâll study it more. Cheers to you both!
Personally, $750 for Fast Charge is a deal, and a must for any longish road trip. Not an EV driver yet myself, and I know some stations charge more for Fast Charge, but it can make a long road trip viable versus fuhgeddaâŚI can only do 120V at home, and will use 220V at work, leverage chargers at Target, and a few other places we enjoy hanging, for regular daily use.
You can ignore the âYearsâ portion of the Leasehackr score for the most part. The higher that number is, the better the deal is since it divides your monthly payment by MSRP to determine how many years worth of those payments it would take to fully pay for the car. Thats something you should definitely be leaving off any written offer or proposal.
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For anyone in the NJ area looking to sneak their way into the Costco incentive it seems like the Cherry Hill location wonât be opening until October 21st. So you can get the $3,000 but will be at the mercy of the remaining incentives and lease programs for October.
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For those very motivated below is a list of remaining new US locations.
Can you use householdâs Costco membership? We donât each have one but there is one in my house. Do these stack with graduate incentive (also in household).
Would have Costco, supplier, graduate, conquest, and the 2k NY EV rebate with 8-9% off MSRP should be a good deal is my understanding?
I dont believe supplier and graduate stack, itâs one or the other.
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Per @ethanrs Costco can be transferred within the household. You get one supplier/grad/student/first Responder/etc code to use on the deal. Can be shared in the household but that person must be on the contract unless their code allows them to gift an authorization.
Can it stack if purchase not lease?
If we are eligible for all discounts below for a Lease:
$6,750 (Premier) or $5,750 (LT) Lease Cash
$3,000 Costco
$1,500 Lease Loyalty or Lease Conquest
$1,400 Bay Area incentive
$5,000 CVAP for income eligible
$??? Grad/student/first Responder/etc.
Can we still expect to the dealer to do 10% minimum on MSRP?
If we run all these discounts on the Calculator, then the total lease is in negative! Is this even possible?
The grad/student/supplier would be counted as part of that 10% if you can get it. But itâs definitely possible, someone recently did very well in California with the low income grants and I believe they were paid for the car.
Wow! Can they really pay you or keep the difference for themselves??
If they keep the difference for themselves, purchasing (with current low APR) would be better option, wonât you think in this particular case?