HOW TO GET A GOOD WRANGLER 4XE Deal; Buckle up for a LONG read! (Part 3)

diamond hands. i would have sold on the spot

It’s all email so far. They are 45 min away and probably double that now in rush hour. I will go tomorrow if no one closer is better.

Order a MY23 and ride it…

Usually with Autonation they can offer higher to match but that will be dependent upon dealer as well

I was hoping to get into a 4XE GC but that doesn’t look hopeful right now. The deals on the 23s I’m seeing are still pretty good, but then would it even make sense to get rid of my current one? I presume these will hold their value decently well so there’s still a slight chance, IMO, that you can end slightly positive after 3 years (positive as in higher than the residual value so you get a bit of a discount on your total lease cost). Still a gamble, obviously.

What I should have done is order two and then flipped one to finance the other one :sweat_smile: alas, too late now.

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Autonation is a Hit or miss.
My initial quote went from 54k to 56k after Autonation dealer inspection.

I’ve done 3 $0 DAS with CCAP through 2 different dealerships in last 12 months. None were sign and drive so no marked up MF. I did receive a free monthly base payment in all 3. CCAP transaction history describes this free monthly base payment as “Assessment” with the same date posted and effective date as the first payment that was taken out of the federal rebate. The “Assessment” has the same base amount as the first payment, and it does not cover tax as tax is “–” in the tax column. The first payment has a dollar amount in the tax column.

Your first payment was covered by the $7500 incentive.

A “sign and drive” has an additional credit added separate from the incentive, so it further lowers your buyout.

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Besides the first payment, there was a second paid amount that was identical to the base amount of the first payment. I paid nothing out of pocket and flipped before CCAP due date.

Two things…

1- I’m about 2 weeks into my ‘22, 67K Rubi. Really want to order MY23 and hope a higher residual offsets potential MF increases. Assuming I take that risk, is there a chance values are dropping fast enough I could be left holding the bag on my 22? I was at 10% plus rebate. Taxes and title ran about $2,500 and had to be paid up front. Dealer fees, broker, and ACQ. Means my sunk cost is about $4,500. That makes my break even $57,500 on a 67K. That seems FAR from a sure thing with the market softening… right? I really want a 23’ though and I think my numbers will be better.

2- Curious others experience with cost of gas/electric. My L2 Juice charger shows I’ve used 78kWh lifetime. My Jeep says I’ve driven about 100 miles on electric. With my electric rates, that works out to $5 for 100 miles on electric.

I drove from south LA dealer to OK and was only getting about 14 mpg. At $4 a gallon that’s about $28 for 100 miles. So electric is a HUGE difference. That’s $2,300 difference every 10K miles. Does that sound about right? My only problem is I’m not getting anywhere close to 22 miles on pure electric. It’s great for close stops around town though.

Was the 2nd labeled as an assesment, or was it the first payment from your contract satisfying the assessed amount due?

Id have to look at my statement, but i recall there being an assesment that posts establishing thd amount due and then the payment crediting against it.

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I recently looked at rubi and sahara resale mkt.
Looks to me sahara mkt is softening but rubi are still going strong. If you sold that today you should get offers from 54k to 62k . Some will low ball you. Start with Carvana, CARMAX, AN and then check with Clutch/ LC. Think you need Registration to sell to most of the buyers.

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I was able to sell my highly optioned MY 2021 rubi in February, sticker was 65k (70k today) for 58k at the point where 2021 prices tanked because 2022s had landed. I believe 58k is around the bottom line for rubicons so you’ll probably break even or be a little underwater due to high rent charges.

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I agree that you should be fine. But there’s no guarantee 23 numbers are better and could be worse.

I’m dumping my HA for 59.5 to a local dealer next week. I do like it and ordered it exactly how I wanted, but I have a Mach E coming next week, a Reign Sahara on order and it doesn’t make any sense to sit on 6k equity (it’s 8k but I put 2k out of pocket). I don’t need to insure a vehicle to sit in my driveway either, but it’s been fun.

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I’ve got my keeper, but now I’m thinking about ordering another to flip.

Can anyone advise me about ordering the premium soft top vs the standard soft top for a flip? Is the premium worth it?

I’m thinking of ordering a white rubi soft top, with matching flairs and the basic safety package. Is there any advice anyone can give on other options I should get or not get? This would be my first flip.

Thanks