They say they do because when you sign up they do a soft credit check.
But I still wonder about that. I installed and registered a friend with a very thin credit profile and her quotes weren’t significantly higher than mine. Puzzled me.
I feel like this may be a pretty good benefit using the app. I got a great quote from a Dealer but then went up like $50/month once he did a soft pull. Said that’s only for Perfect Credit. What a bummer 
Why can’t I find this deal?
Where are you searching for it? in RODO? what zip code are you in? possible either no Hyundai dealership in your area working with RODO, or none of them loaded Ioniqs into RODO inventory.
Each car seems to be loaded individually.
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There’s no way you let them get away with a $699 dealer fee! I would’ve thrown a fit even at $399!
I actually use it against them.
Most dealers post it on their website pricing “claiming” to be upfront about fees, so when I see the dealer fee anything higher than $200 I just incorporate the excess fee in my expected selling price and always negotiate out the door pricing so I could careless what those fees are. I don’t negotiate the selling price…I negotiate out the door price. Researching is the key.
Always negotiate in good faith. I don’t aim to get the every last $ but also know not to be taken advantage of.
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Let’s me see how you do it next time:)
The total cost was acceptable to me so throwing fist over that average fee in CT would not help.
I asked about and they stated they don’t negotiate. Sale price before rebates was low enough compare to other deals to cover for the high fee.
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I ask a dealer’s doc fee before negotiating so I can work around it.
When there’s a price I want I aim there and just add on the rest of the taxes and fees. I lose my seriousness at dealers with dealer fees $300+. I have seen many dealers do $0, $75, $99, $149, $199, $299 I’ve seen them rise over the years by the hundreds. I get emails from this one dealer always telling me “schedule an appt. dealer fee $549 waived” it just shows that it’s all fluff. I asked a dealer once what does their $599 go towards and the sales person stuttered, he was so stuck, he was like “um I’ll have to ask my manager” I find it annoying when a dealers proposed lease deal is 1-2k down minus reg & taxes and then it bring it’s up tit the next thousand because of the dealer fee. I’ve talked to dealer I know and they said $299 is plenty for them to pay their people behind the scenes to take care of all the paper work.
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I think most states have a law where all consumers have to pay the same fees.
Ex. If the dealer deal is $199 pm w/ $999 cap cost red, But their dealer fee is $699, I would fight to keep the advertised payment but with $499 cc
That’s how I “work around it”
Did you include the $50 (I think $40 now) test drive gift card for post sale rebate
hi I am a newbie so this might sound like a dumb question but is there anyway I can tell the dealer to lower the MSRP because on truecar the trueprice valued the MSRP at 22736 and on Edmunds it’s 24912 but the dealer saying it’s 26485 and these are all the same exact model
What should I do?
If you’re trying to lease, negotiating a lower Selling Price
(I think that’s what you’re suggesting when you say lower MSRP) is only 1 component of the calculation.
Please read the “Leasing 101” and other articles and familiar yourself with all the key components of a lease to not get taken a ride for.
Also, MSRPs are pointless when negotiating a car deal.
MSRP is set by the manufacturer. I think Truecar & Edmunds is suggesting the avg. “selling price” which can vary alot based on many factors.
Doing research and understanding all the key factors of a car deal is the only way to make sure you’re getting a good/great deal.
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Agreed, Dealer Fees is “negotiable” just like any other component of a car deal (unlike the states where they’re set by law).
I use the dealer fee as a preparation tool to see how my negotiations are going to go. Higher dealer “doc” fees more negotiating.
That’s one way to do it. I just find it easier to do my research to find out my target out the door (incl tax & fees) and just negotiate that instead of negotiating in stages (i.e. - Selling price 1st, then doc fees, and so on).
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Did they agree to your “Make an offer”? How much less was it than what they wanted?
At the time in December, they were listed at $132 with $2,300 DAS. I offered in the app $113, DAS was the same. Could not offer lower as app prevented that. Counteroffer was $120 which I accepted.
Here is the write up in another thread
Which dealership offers this? I’m in CT and trying to find this deal.
Yes, totally see you point. Since I was doing this in RODO app - you can’t negotiate parts of the deal except for payment.
The question was would the dealership hold up to the offer accepted in the app.
How they got their it was their problem.
Starting blowing up deal just because the fee was $700 was not the point of the test.
I am new here. What app should I be using?
RODO app on the playstore or app store