Put the #s into the LH calculator and I get a score of 10.1 with about $3535 due at signing. Seems there are about $1400 in hidden fees here. Prob a dealer fee added to inceptions and not getting full benefit of the cap cost reduction.
Better to put money down or MSDs to reduce monthly payment? I figured it was a push. Also, I don’t have the negotiated price but it seems to be in the 55-56K neighborhood based on gross cap. Gross Cap is 47404 and Adj Cap is 46135.
Tried Amex Auto Purchase Program powered by TrueCar. Dealers here won’t stack the TrueCar savings with incentives/rebates. TrueCar savings are regarded as having the incentives/rebates baked in.
I found that TrueCar discount is typically 2-3% MSRP in SoFla. When negotiating I try to get 6% right off the top because that’s what A-Plan typically offers. But I am missing out on the $3000 A-Plan bonus. And the $1000 Elite bonus.
Nonetheless, it seems this deal includes $6,850 in dealer discounts before incentives. That’s 10.92% MSRP.
I am having a tough time breaking out fees. It seems they recapture the savings through fees somewhere. About $1500. Unless I am missing something.
I know conventional wisdom is don’t put a lot down on a lease. But the cost of the lease is about $22k and residual is $28.8k. So that’s a 62.7k vehicle for about $50.8k. With .528 APR for first 3 yrs.
I don’t know if I could do better if I was trying to purchase/finance the car.
@newtolease first off dealing with most car dealers in SoFlo sucks and you’re going to have to work for a really good deal. But if you put a little work into it you can get a good deal. Last month I got a $64k inscription paying ~$380 a month (30 mth/10k a yr), with ~$2300 at signing for 1st month, tags and includes $1800 for MSD’s. I did have A-plan so that gave me an additional $4k incentive. So without that it roughly equates to about an additional ~$120 a month more.
You should have no problem getting 10% msrp, at a minimum, before any incentives are applied. I will say that every dealer would not move for the first few weeks of the month and then after Thanksgiving weekend, low and behold a few of them found a way to make a deal happen.
Just received this email from Volvo A-plan. Not sure if it is typical verbiage to get you to buy sooner (benefit may expire so hurry up and use it) or if there really is a plan to change the A-plan benefits. This is the first time they have ever sent me marketing emails in the ~6 months I have been registered with them.
What I am realizing is that the $4000 A-Plan bonus is huge! I have to get that plan going forward. But putting the deal I have on the table in a 30/12 lease with A-Plan bonus I get 333+tax ($353.46/mo).
The BIG difference is the $$ due at signing. Have to get that down to something reasonable. Thanks!!
Depends how you look at it. I feel fortunate that I was able to get in on the deal.
Frankly, I think it is strange to keep your best deals to the last week of the year. It just conditioned people to wait and cut your margins. They can do much better by being unpredictable and agile.
It happens buying out of state and shipping it, the issue is you lose some of the savings because of shipping. Buy I think that a dealer has an established network of shipping cars so they should be able to help with that. A few posts from people in northern Cal have said they flew down to souther Cal because the deal was that much better. Not really sure best strategy for negotiating the whole shipping thing.
@nyclife and others would have to tell you specifically about his involvement in transportation.
I did not see a breakout of Adj Cap Cost but the math seems to work out like this: about 10.8% off MSRP - 8750 incentives to get to Cap Cost. Then 2000 down minus 695 acq fee to get to Adj Cap Cost.
I have not looked into MSDs. Figured 2000 down gives me about the same savings/pymt as 4-5 MSDs. With the MF at .00022 there does not seem to be much more room to save on financing costs. I believe the financing cost on the lease is about $580 or so.
Are you counting your $2k down payment twice in the calc (included in adjusted cap as well as listed as downpayment)?
Also are you stuck on an inscription? A loaded momentum will have most of the features and a much better residual. The best combo is a Momentum with MSD (inscription has lower residual but better base MF)
This is true but the Inscription is only off by a little bit. If the MSRP’s are the same the Inscription will end up being cheaper, better MF and RV. So ultimately it will end up being which ever has the cheaper MSRP.
I ended up getting the Inscription at the same price I was suppose to get a T6 Momentum. I’m not sure if I just did a bad job negotiating on the Momentum but I can’t be happier that I got the inscription. I’m a tall guy at 6’3 and I can say they seats go from a 8 with the momentum to 9.5 with the inscription. Don’t get me wrong I’m not saying ANYTHING is wrong with a momentum but the inscription I think adds a few more bits of upgrades that I love (although I’m sure I’d love the momentum just as much).
Oh, there is absolutely ZERO reason you would out money down over MSD’s. This would be an incredibly poor financial move, you’d literally be choosing to throw away money instead of making a return on it.