TechHackr Thread ——

I never do when I work on multiple monitors. May be different if you are trying to do something that actually spans both monitors though.

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great question. I actually had no problems with the bezel, cos I use individual apps on individual monitors. The biggest issue was the tiny gap in between the bezels if I didn’t have the monitors perfectly positioned next to each other.

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I vehemently disagree. 144hz to 240 hz is a jump. 144 to 165 is less of a jump, but 144 vs 240 is noticeable, I daily 240, and using a LAN event’s 144 setup is trippy till I adjust.

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Largely depends on what you’re doing on the monitor, no?

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In my opinion, no. If I simply browse chrome, I prefer to do it on 240hz, it just looks and feels smoother and snappier compared to my 100hz ultrawide. I prefer it, I use the ultrawide for video, discord, and spotify, but for like 90% of my intensive non stationary usage (like background youtube videos, music, etc, I use my 240hz alienware.

Games, it differs too, if I’m playing a large board RTS like Civilization, yea I might use the ultrawide, but I honestly do prefer the TN 240hz over the 100hz IPS ultrawide.

The monitors are really well aligned, so that definitely helps.

Haven’t invested in a 240 yet, but I think Shroud talked about it on a LTT video.

Do it, I don’t regret it at all.

This is my official recommendation. Awesome panel, awesome refresh rate, and it’s competitively priced.

I think I’d rather have higher resolution than higher refresh rate personally, but I use my computer more for cad work and photo editing than gaming

100% agree, a properly calibrated and high resolution panel > 240hz refresh rate panel. My 240hz TN actually looks washed out in comparison to my 100hz IPS side to side, IPS colors are deeper and more bold, and it shows, especially when calibrated.

I’m waiting for my new laptop to show up. Ended up going with the 4k oled with factory Pantone color calibration. Probably totally unnecessary, but oh well. Ha

Now to find a matching monitor for when it’s docked

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I may offer someone here a broker fee to get me a deal on 2 nice matching monitors and the proper cable(s) to run both off of my MB Air.

Usually I like shopping for that kind of stuff but I’d rather pay an expert.

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https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/accessories-and-monitors/new-arrivals/L24q-30A19238QL023-8inch-Monitor-HDMI/p/65FBGCC1US?clickid=15bw25UJvxyOUU0wUx0Mo38VUki1iVTfIzLT0U0&irgwc=1&PID=10451&acid=ww%3Aaffiliate%3Abv0as6

Try using coupon code " DISCOVER20" to save 20% and Rakuten/Ebates has 10% cash back.

$179.99

  • $20.00

$159.99

  • $16.00

$143.99

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Can you please share the techhackr calculator?

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Lol I just typed the final cost in the post

Just make sure you go thru Rakuten/Ebates to get the 10% cash back.

It was a joke :slight_smile:

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Lol I figured but I had already typed the breakdown

P. S. - I was trying to secure the broker fee lol jk

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Note that Lenovo has some fantastic affiliate deals through some large companies. The computer I just bought is a Lenovo and through my company affiliate relationship with them, I got another $1000 off their advertised sales prices.

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I checked lenovo using my affiliate discount on that monitor… a whole $2 extra dollars off! But you don’t get to use rakuten or the discover20 discount… so for cheap accessories, definitely use those. If you find yourself in need of a higher end lap top, however, things change.

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It really depends on what you want.

For MB Air, I would go with 1080p. More or less the standard these days and still is really good. Still, the setup with connections is going to be an expense in itself. Also, TB2 supports a maximum that is close to 1080P.

If you are going to be using it for basic office stuff, just getting the cheapest decent 1080p monitors with IPS panels is the way to go. They are 60Hz, but you really don’t need more than that because a lot of the adapter you will need will probably not push beyond that.

HP VH240a 23.8-inch look to be really cheap on Amazon ($110) for what you are getting. Buy that, a MiniDisplayPort to HDMI (AmazonBasics is usually a reliable pick), and a StarTech.com USB 3.0 to HDMI External Video Card Adapter that supports Windows and Mac (you will need a driver to get this one working).