Not much to negotiate here as Polestar has no-haggle pricing, would be curious to hear the community’s opinion on this deal. LH score of 7.5 years. Note 592 is pre-tax, 648 after-tax. Taking delivery next week.
See Calculator link below for details
Any reason you’re putting down $3900? I wouldn’t put any money down on a lease, as if the car gets totaled, you’re out all of that money.
No good reason to be honest. Just buying down the payment for cash flow budgeting purposes. Hypothetically, I save a bit on interest I think but the MF is relatively low so doesn’t really matter.
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Can you not parrot something you read online?
What happens after a total loss depends on factors such as the agreed ACV settlement; the balance owed; who the excess, if any, belongs to depends on state law, insurance policy language and who the lessor is… the permutations of all those possible outcomes cannot be distilled into a bullshit generalized internet myth that goes “you lose it all.”
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Chill tf out. There’s absolutely no reason whatsoever to use the tone you’re using. One would think as a “Trusted Hackr”, you’d be able to show some ounce of respect online. It’s just not that hard to be a pleasant person.
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What I’m stating is definitely a general statement, and it completely allows the person making the decision to avoid all of the investigations and headaches necessary to delve into the various factors you’ve just alluded to. As such, it makes sense to never have to worry about going through all of that documentation (especially as I myself am an insurance attorney) by just avoiding the down payment altogether.
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2 above is especially true as a lot of the visitors on this forum aren’t familiar with the basics of car leasing, much else understanding ACV settlement values, balances owed, etc. So again, chill tf out.
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I always respect the advice from trusted hackers here, but let’s not act like the no down payment rule is not one of the number one things preached here on a daily basis. Just because a handful of people recently have been able to get some equity out of a total loss, let’s not pretend that’s the norm. Opinion is one thing, but getting fired up and coming at somebody about something 98% of the people preach here (TH’s especially) isn’t necessary. It’s not something he read on the Internet, it’s something he and most people read here on this forum.
To each his own with the down payment as long as people are aware of the potential risk.
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The primary reason for preaching no money down, at least in my opinion, is because people mislead themselves into thinking something is a better deal than it actually is. For some reason, people process $3-4000 upfront as trivial but $100/mo as a huge amount.
With that said, I think getting as far away from rules of thumb as possible is a good thing and this is one of those rules of thumb that should go with it. It’s better for everyone to understand the nuances behind things.
This is probably a case where the “why” is the issue more than the “what”.
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No to mention most people can make more on their money then they save on interest…
risk/reward just doesn’t make sense for me to ever put anything but msds down if needed. New cars are made like shit and are easily totalled. Rather not have to deal with trying to get my downpayment back from insurance in that situation.
I’m an advocate for not putting money down on the leases I broker.
People should almost always max out their 401k match (if applicable) before putting cash down as well.
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As a professional investor I understand cost of capital very well (and run a fairly aggressive personal balance sheet), as mentioned above the decision to put cash down is primarily psychological. While the merits of a down payment may not stack up with the risks, the purpose of this thread wasn’t really to debate those merits (although I do appreciate everyone’s input here). After all, the effective payment is will be pretty similar regardless of down payment.
As mentioned in initial post would be curious of what people think of the deal: effective payment $756, RV $39k (63%) , etc.
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The old psychological payment factor. Got it.
If they don’t negotiate and there’s no data for residuals as it’s a new model how can anyone say if it’s a good deal or not?
Is it worth $770/mo to you? If so then it’s as good a deal as any…pricing appears to be inline with comparable electric cars. I’d prob buy it and get the 7500 tax credit personally.
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I had the opportunity to drive one for a few days (National Car Rental in DFW Airport) in November, and really liked it- so much so that I am considering it for my next lease. Thank you for posting your details, as it is difficult to learn/see what folks are paying…
Bottom line as you pointed out, there isn’t much (if anything except for maybe “dealer fees”) to negotiate on this car, as:
- MSRP isn’t negotiable
- Agreed nice to see low interest on your lease
- I’ve been curious about the $7,500.00 incentive; any idea if this increased your RV? (asking as my understanding, and this may not be accurate…is that this payment goes to Volvo, and in turn- they increase the RV?)
Although I’m “sold” on the Polestar 2, the lease cost opens up the door for many other options, thus undecided on what my plans are…
Best of luck with the new drive!
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Thank you for the carve-out. I’m among the 2%. 
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Can you post some pics? Would like to see the interior too.
I saw one in Atlanta about 2 weeks ago. They look pretty good, but I’d say conservatively they’re outnumbered from against a Model 3 like 50 to 1 from my small sample size.
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Thanks! Yes, was trying to get a bead on relative value vs comps but really too early to see whether the RV holds in secondary market. I did the same math as you on bang for buck, I think it just depends on your time horizon. If you can hold out another 6-12 months there will be a few other comparable options to choose from.
Re:Fed Rebate, about $3,900 was passed on in the form of a cap cost adjustment. So my MSRP is 62,395 and Net Cap I’m leasing against is 58,496 (at least that’s how I’ve read my deal sheet).
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Yup, will do when I take delivery next week.
Yes, this was one of the reasons I decided to go with the Polestar, didn’t want to be one the massive Tesla flock in Los Angeles haha.
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Congrats!! Your MSRP suggests you basically got a fully loaded one with Performance pkg? I had Polestar 2 for 2 days and put around 600 miles driving city streets, freeways, and fun mountain roads in socal. It drove really really excellent. Firm yet comfortable ride, balanced handling, and fast acceleration of course. Dig the design inside out and materials used inside as well. It’s a rather fantastic EV and definitely worth considering. Also, it is a fastback with a large opening hatch, which is a definite plus for me unlike the Model 3. The one negative was the presence of a tall center tunnel due to compromised package based on ICE car…
I have questions about your buying experience with Polestar. Did you do everything online and simply picking up the car at the dealership or visit the store? And absolutely zero negotiation, correct? - like Tesla. Are you getting a pre-configured or custom order?
and… I am sure you’ve compared with Model 3. What made you choose Polestar 2 and any other EVs or ICE cars you’ve considered? and what EVs have you had before if any? Just curious~
Enjoy the awesome car!
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I went with a remaining 2021 Polestar 2 with premium paint along with Plus and performance packs. Took delivery 12/30. MF is .000000001 x 39 months and 15k miles. Total payment with taxes is 806. There was no difference with additional down outside of decreased payment. My payment is actually $821 because they talked me in to wear and tear. The website cost for 5k in coverage was almost triple what the dealer charged me and I just got hit a big wear and tear bill thanks to a shopping cart jerk 2 days before turn in of my last lease.
The 2022 was going to be about 75 more per month for a technically cheaper car with a much higher MF(relative speaking). The two biggest differences are the addition of the heat pump and additional range which were not a huge factor since I am in Texas and the range difference has shown to be negligible in non-scientific testing so far. I did want the two keys and headlight washers so all is good. FYI, this car gets a ton of looks, a ton of photographs and lots of questions. It is also absolutely one of the most comfortable cars I have owned in a long time, but then I tend to go for sports cars with custom suspensions (still question whether I should have gone for the performance pack). Now it is Sunday night and I need to see how Wags plans to survive. If you get that reference, nice…
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The one negative was the presence of a tall center tunnel due to compromised package based on ICE car…
I and most of those on the polestar forums wish the center console would change. I have found in the last few weeks that the console is less intrusive than I thought it would be. I’m an apple user and realize that Android Automotive is incredible. 3D print an extra cup-holder for the glovebox and life is good. The only true negative so far has been the charging curve which Polestar has been improving.
I’m also going to weigh in without invitation on the Model 3. I had ordered a Model 3 DM Long Range. I ordered one even after falling in love with the Polestar. My thought process was that Polestar is the better quality car and Tesla has the best tech. Since these cars are basically like driving a computer then why not go with the better tech even if the case may not be the best. Tesla’s driveline has proven to be pretty darn good even if the rest of the car has had quality issues.
Now here is where my experience gets stupid. I ordered the Model 3 expecting delivery in about 3 to 4 months. I put my money down in late August and was told to expect the car in Late December to late January. Perfect timing since I am coming off a lease and a few very big necessary purchases. The next week I received notice that my car was being built and I should have it in 2 weeks. I could delay, but the delay would push the car automatically into April or May as I have to go to the back of the list. I was going to purchase the 3 since you can’t buy out a Tesla lease and they are holding their values so well. So I decided to switch to the car that tugged at my desires a little more than a Tesla. Since the Polestar is much more of an unknown with an inflated RV I decided it is best to lease and decide if it was a good deal in 39 months.
I also had a 2013 S which was decent, but definitely had lots of quality issues. I did get rid of it quickly because my job situation changed and put me on the road which wasn’t practical for an electric car in 2013.
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