In Georgia. Went to a dealership to see about a Chevy traverse. Listing price was $33k. They told me they can’t do leases on that price that I can only lease on full msrp and trying to say my lease payment would be $680/m. She said GM vehicles you can’t lease on the sale price of a car.
This isn’t my first lease. I always negotiate the price of the car and then get the lease price based on that.
Anyone have the same issue?
Work with another dealership. Sounds like they won’t discount the car.
Also don’t go to the dealership for anything but a test drive. Walk in, drive, walk out.
Figure out what vehicle/trim/packages you want. Go to Edmonds forums to get base mf and incentives available. Look on this site to see what pre-incentive discounts people are getting on the vehicle. Then start emailing dealers with your target deal based on all these facts.
Or just use a broker.
So basically they were wrong in telling me I can’t negotiate the price of the car down and then lease it?
Of course. First mistake is always stepping into the dealership to negotiate. And I agree with others - prob not a dealership you want to be working with if that’s what they are telling you.
No they were right. YOU cannot negotiate a better lease price with them.
Maybe someone else can. But not YOU. Because YOU walked into their spider web and the black widow isn’t going to let you go before she drains you.
Use a broker, it’s worth the $400. Especially if you get everything signed ahead of time.
They MAY have been saying that lease rebates and finance rebates are different. however, more than likely as others have said, they are playing you.
Figure out the lease incentives on the vehicle, and a reasonable selling discount off of MSRP (Verify what others have received). From here use the calculator to figure out what your deal should be. Use the Marketplace if you find a vendor selling the vehicle you want. It will save you a whole bunch of time and hassle. A broker from the Marketplace is also a good option.
That $33k was likely including purchase incentives. Lease incentives are almost always different. So technically you are likely both right and were probably talking past each other. But negotiating in person without any idea of what monthly payment (output) that you’re trying to achieve based on your research and knowledge is setting yourself up for failure. Would $599 have sold you? Or $499? That’s the goal when you walk into a dealership…to make you feel like you’re getting a good deal by playing their game…meanwhile maybe it could be leased for $299 if you do the homework up front.
It is practically impossible for us to tell you what a “good” monthly payment is for your specific lease as lease programs are highly dependent on region, personal qualifications, tax rates, etc.
We always recommend the following method before you ever contact a dealership. If you do all of the work up front, you’ll have a stress free dealer experience and set yourself for success.
- Read Leasing 101 (Blog | LEASEHACKR) to understand how to calculate a lease payment and the variables. Monthly payment is an output, not an input!!
- Pick a specific vehicle that you want to target
- Gather the current MF, RV and incentives from Edmunds forums for your zip code
- Research the LH marketplace and other deals that have been made recently on your vehicle - what was their pre-incentive discount? How did their lease terms differ?
- Plug your numbers into the LH calculator (CALCULATOR | LEASEHACKR), and use a pre-incentive discount similar to what you have seen
- Create a target deal, this is what you’re trying to negotiate to. You can try different terms, selling price discount, etc. and see how your monthly payment is affected. It is also possible that different trims of your vehicle may have different MF and RV (i.e. this is very common with GM), so make sure that you look into that. Come up with a set of inputs that give you the output that you want - your desired monthly payment.
With a target price determined, you now have a deal to pursue and compare dealer offers against. More importantly, you have a solid foundation to work from.
I would suggest searching Traverse here and seeing a ballpark of where you should be.
A quick look seems to show Chevy is offering 10% off MSRP for purchase only, not lease.
I need to know if I’m missing something in trying to figure out lease. I’m in GA. Looking at cars that the price is $32,000. 1% rule would mean I should be looking at a $320/m payment before tax. In GA it’s illegal to charge admin, doc, or acquisition fee outside of the advertised price of the car. The only thing that can be tacked on is govt fees.
When I use leasehacker calculator with correct MF, residual, months, and miles. Down payment $2000. 6.6% tax I’m getting a number around $324 with TAVT tax paid at signing.
I have been to 6 dealerships and I can’t get the numbers lower than $435/m.
Why are our numbers so vastly different?
Is this something a broker would be able to do that I cannot do?
Without looking they may be bumping the money factor or adding fees they are not telling you about. Ask for the lease worksheet to see the numbers and how they got there.
Forget you’ve ever heard anything about a 1% rule. It isn’t a good way to judge if a lease is a good deal or not.
Are you running your calculator without these fees included?
Yeah I’m running it with tax and gov fees.
Can you post your calculator and one of the dealer offers that aren’t lining up?
I did and the money factor was right. The price of the car was right. There was a cap cost reduction price of $2400 listed. But the worksheet total was $435. The only other numbers were the TAVT tax (accurate), doc fee and acquisition fee (which GA doesn’t allow you to tack on in addition to sales price).
They were saying to get to $350/m I would need to put $6k down which doesn’t seem reasonable.
Can you provide a source to back this up?
One thing worth asking here, what did you discount the car to in your calculation? What’s the MSRP and the selling price?