Supplier is in my name, conquest would be household.
For costco since it says non-transferable, do I just add my name with the household’s membership number on the certificate page? Any DPs?
The dealer bulletin from GM Financial says that it CAN be transferred within the household. I’d check with the dealer but you would probably just have to provide drivers licenses from the member and lessee that prove they are in the same household.
Are you sure your payoff is $16,500? That would include any sales tax that a dealer does not have to pay. Plus, even if you do have to eat $500, that would just about cover your lease turn in fee and you would not have to worry about any possible damages. I would personally strongly consider getting the Bolt now if you can get a deal on it.
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It also requires more time. And like @ElectricEliminator said, with a low probability that spending all that time will pay off
Hrmmmmm that is a great point… great great point.
You could also take that offer and keep it in your back pocket and try to get the dealer to at least match it if they offer less if you try to trade it in. That would keep your hassle to a bare minimum.
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Im curious, what is the dealer’s incentive to accept trade-ins? Is that just a tool to get customer to buy a new vehicle with them, or do they actually have a financial interest in buying used vehicles?
Quite simply, the dealer is looking to get a vehicle on the lot for as little money as possible to sell for the most money possible. If they take your trade in, they don’t have to go to auction, pay auction fees, pay shipping to the dealer, etc… But they of course are going to lowball you at first. They may match a Carmax or Vroom offer, they may not, or they may even beat it if the stars align! An honest dealer will tell you they make more money on average per sale on a used vehicle than a new vehicle.
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Do you mind to share from which dealer you got this offer? thanks!
I’m probably off base, and admit to being conspiracy-prone…but I’m confounded on the lack of knowedge, or worse, the denial, of the Bay Area Incremental CCR ($1400). Ever since I have brought that up,and inquired if I qualify, all communication has been unproductive from 3 different dealers. One said I qualify, but has refused to revise his quote and is pressuring me to ‘come in’ (5 times now), another said the CCR was already in the initial quote (it surely wasn’t, as the quote matched dealer one, before I was told I qualified), and another dealer that was responsive initially has gone silent. So…can these dealers process this CCR on my behalf, without buyers knowledge, for an extra vig on the deals they make, hoping you don’t know about it, or are they truly deficient in the current deals on the only thing they sell (ie. incompetent)?
A followup question: Can I get an out-of-area dealer to apply the Bay Area Incremental discount…ie, can I shop Sacramento or SoCal, since the vehicle will still be registered in Bay Area zip code?
They are probably hoping that you didn’t know about it. If it is dealer cash (which some of the regional incentives are), they aren’t obligated to pass it along. Or they are baking it into the quote hoping you don’t know that it is an additional incentive. You can hold firm on getting the incentive in addition to the dealer discount, but if it is a strong offer they might not be willing to go lower depending on the conditions in the market at the moment.
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GM incentives are usually tied to the registrant’s zip code so that possible. You might want to check with one of the CA dealers here about how that works though.
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Heh…so it is sorta ‘don’t attribute to ignorance what you can attribute to malice’…you’re like me! lol
I was thinking of contacting a dealer in the central valley and specifically asking if they could apply the BA CCR to a deal, and see what they say, but I’ll also look in the specific fora for NorCal and hit them up as well. Cheers!
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You might have better luck just giving the sales advisor your numbers broken out line by line (MSRP, dealer discount, each incentive amount separately, dealer doc fee, tax) saying this is what I want and can you do it. Then you make sure the money factor is correct on the lease agreement to get to you payment or one pay amount.
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Suspect you’re correct…having the toughest time getting anyone to give me a breakdown of their quote…so I have no idea if they’re truly adding the $1400 Bay Area CCR…rather than play hide the pickle…
Anyone have any luck on this in NJ?
I’ve emailed almost every dealer in the state with them in stock and so far one is working with me, gave me a ~$8k one pay offer after Costco discount and said it was an $11k discount already then told me about the $5k from the state
Just laid out all the numbers the $6750 lease cash and to apply whatever dealer cash they can, said I heard about dealers in NJ giving $4500
Asked about first responder status and student status which only got me $500
I understood I didn’t qualify for $1500 conquest since I have no leases in the household. Asked for something in the sub $6000 range out the door or as close to it.
First lease, been lurking LH for a bit. Any other tips of anything I can leverage?
Sub $6,000 is very unrealistic if you don’t qualify for all the incentives like lease loyalty or lease conquest. If you were able to find an aggressive dealer I’d say around $7,500 is going to be the best you can do, maybe a little more or less depending on the dealer fees. Read the recent posts here from myself and other people in NJ who were able to get one and that will give you a better idea of of what to expect.
I always found trying to negotiate to a bottom line number will not get far. You need to focus on top line - dealer discount. This is basically the only variable the dealer controls. If you can score 8-10% off in NJ you should be good. Tell them you don’t qualify for any rebates or incentives and get their numbers and work from there.
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I am honored that you tagged me
sub $6k is unrealistic if you dont have the $1500 conquest. Remember conquest only has to be in the same household. I struggled hard to get to $6500 with conquest. Somewhere around $7750-8k seems right without conquest. I would go in, ask for a bit more off, and would take whatever they offer - even the $8k if you want the car. It’s unlikely that you will get better. Also, inventory is very low. Local dealerships are barely keeping any units in stock. The websites are outdated.
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