Off Topic Landfill 2

I just got offered this. Am I leaving anything on the table.

leasehackr.com/calculator?make=Toyota&miles=12000&msd=0&msrp=48383&sales_price=44210&months=24&mf=.00095&dp=0&dealer_fee=270&acq_fee=335&taxed_inc=2500&untaxed_inc=0&rebate=0&resP=80&reg_fee=164.5&sales_tax=7&demo_mileage=0&memo=&zero_driveoff=true&totalLeaseTax_radio=true

beatifull but how did you lease 10k car when its suppose to be under 7k?

Can someone explain to me how I am being quoted on a 2020 Volvo XC90 that has an MSRP of around $55,000, $647/month with $3,000 DAS. Dealer said that there is absolutely no more room. I do not understand at all!!!

Can someone please help me out with a XC90 deal? My dealership is being absolutely ridiculous.

This dealer is just being ridiculous!

in Dec '19 i leased a $54,005 MSRP T5 Momentum 7 passenger 2020 XC90 (new, not loaner) for $420/month.
True $0 due at signing, volvo made 1st payment. I had 35 payments left when i walked out of the dealership. Everything (1.2% taxes, acq fee, govt fees, dealer doc fee) was rolled into the cap cost so i didnt pay a penny at signing.

36 month lease, 10K miles/year
Tax credits where 1.2% of sales price was assessed and rolled in
$500 Loyalty was used
$500 USAA/Penfed incentive
$2500 Volvo incentive
$500 Volvo bonus lease cash
Rest was dealer discount
64% residual
Buy rate MF for tier1+ credit
No MSD was used

If i really wanted to take my chances, i could have probably saved another $20 or so to get to even $400 but i would risk losing the color combination i wanted (osmium gray with blonde interior at a cheap MSRP) and then most dealers didnt have tax credits and even those that did were still in $550-$700 range. I practically shopped every dealer in the state and noone could touch this deal.

You’re missing the most important detail of your deal for others to comparison shop against… what was your pre-incentive discount.

I got 13.5% off MSRP before any incentive.

I read deals posted on leasekhackr and edmunds of people so happy in the $500-$600s and even with money out of pocket. Absolutely preposterous. Leases - i dont even put a penny at signing and make dealer cover it.

Plain and simple - if you truly want the best deal in the state, then make sure you aim to be in the top 2% of the worst business deals the dealer made in the month. Thats the mindset i work off of and every lease ive ever done for myself or family is the same.

My deal was also in mid december so im sure there were sales targets to hit for year bonuses etc. I dont think youll be able to get 13-15% off as dealer discount before any incentives but then again no automaker is in good shape with the current state of the economy.

Im now trying to get a Range Rover Velar at the same deal structure with true $0 due at signing, for $530/month on an R-Dynamic $66K MSRP.

You have no way of knowing of what’s the 2% of worst deals the dealer made that month.

True…However, i said i aim to be in the worst deals for the dealer in the month. The average Joe (90%- 95% of shoppers) walking in to dealer has no clue to how buy or lease a car or know the numbers. They are there to get to a budget payment and dealer is there to make the payment work.

Youre not going to have tons of buyers that are educated and know the leasing programs, residuals, MF, incentives etc etc. If the dealer gives the customer everything it has in the car and makes no money on the front of back, they might as well close their business and/or declare themselves as not for profit. However, again the reality is the dealer is not banking on the very miniscule clientele like myself or you or the guys on forums to make their money…its relying on those who dont have a clue. Thats where guys like myself will end up getting the true stellar deal.

The dealers i shopped my deal with all laughed (GSM’s and GM’s) saying noone would give me anything north of 10% dealer discount and then give all the incentices and tax credits and make nothing on the MF. When i sent them the contract, they were stunned. One of them emailed me and said he wanted me to come by and meet with him because he said i got a steal and wanted to consider me for a future job opportunity there.

When I approached my dealer, i called and asked about whether he had any. He told me he had 2 left and thats where i went into action and knew what i had to get from him as dealer discount to get to $390 payment…he looked at me and laughed saying i had no idea what i was talking about with getting to the payment with nothing out of pocker…After throwing the program at his face and calling his bluff 2-3 days later i settled at $420 and walked out a champion.

lol

If you knew it could be had at $390, he still won when you got it for $420. Either way, still a pretty good deal.

Do your dress in Armani to visit the dealerships? Or do you negotiate remotely via emails in your Armani pyjamas?

Not sure either. Also, a T5 v. T6 and MSRP of 54k v. 60k.

Splattered, vhooloo and GR8Bamtino: you are all bunch of morons. You take 1 thing and imply something else. I wanted the $390 payment…doesnt mean it would mathetically be possible…i knew what i wanted to achieve going on knowing $390 was never going to happen. Reality is anything low $400’s on this is stellar.

Armani? How long did it take you to come up with that? Im sharing what was possible to achieve and what i did relative to the ridiculous “deal” that was on the table for the current person looking at the XC90. As far you being mortals, (your words, not mine) - sure. Youre all morons - let me know and walk the walk if youve known anyone get a payment low $400s at that deal structure. Post the contract.

stop running your mouths like you own the forum.

I don’t own the forums and me posting a irrelevant deal doesn’t help his deal. Me posting what I got on my XC90 doesn’t help him. You decided to post your numbers from a different region for a different model of the car in which you yourself left some on the table. I don’t see how or why that was necessary to be posted on this deal. But please explain to other “morons” how we can negotiate a better deal on a different car than posted :slight_smile:

Most on this forum are already educated enough to know what target dealer discount % should be (pre-incentives). I dont claim to be the best negotiator. Bottom line is it’s all a matter of supply, demand, DOS, sales performance, flexibility of colors/options etc and timing that all factors into the deal at the end of the day. Numbers and program are what they are. We all know there is a mental element to all this and knowing when to call dealers bluff and walk away to get the deal we want or come close.

That being said, to the person trying to get this vehicle or any other…DO NOT put any freakin penny at signing. Plain stupid. There is no reason why you would want to put down any money at signing…roll everything into the cap cost and do a true zero due at signing.

If the guy with the “armani pyjamas” does’nt know anything…he does know this much: No dealer in the country really wants to do a deal with zero due at signing.

I would refute your claim of most people knowing the target discount. In fact, most don’t. They use the deals posted here and assume they can get that. I don’t have a problem with you posting what you know but posting a deal on a T5 isn’t the same. If you said look, there’s probably another $1000 you can get in the discount and linked a couple threads with a similar car to his (even if it’s a different region), that probably would have been valid.

Also, this guy did not put any money down on the car. He just paid fees and taxes on the car which you would have to pay regardless.

Your deal was a zero due at signing because of the 1st month payment waiver or you would’ve had that 1st payment as well.