Mercedes-Benz GLA 2021 Lease Deal Question

Hey there!

First time leasing and it’s for the 2021 GLA. MSRP: $43,585

There is an online advertised deal for $379 monthly but requires a $3600 down payment.
I’m trying to do something like a $400 monthly payment (including tax) and $3000 down payment.

Would that be a good deal?

Previously, when I wanted to get the Lexus NX F-sport. I was able to haggle it down to a $390/monthly including tax with $3500 down payment. The MRSP was at least $6k higher for the F-Sport around $48,000.

Another question is since the GLA MSRP is lower than the Lexus F-Sport, am I paying too much for the GLA? Should I haggle the GLA monthly or down payment even further?

Very new at this. Thanks for the help!

Let’s do it.

Edit: just kidding I don’t know any number without running it

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Does that mean it’s a good deal or bad deal ?_?

Why are you putting down that much money?

I would like a lower monthly payment. The other offer was $499 (+tax) and then $1100 drive off fees. I felt overall, I was paying too much. If I put down a down payment, it seems like I have more leverage on the monthly price and overall pay less in the span of 3 years. $19k vs. $17.4k

Why don’t you lower the selling price of the car (increase the dealer discount) to bring your monthly payments down?

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Research and math work a lot better than intuition. :slight_smile:

I can try that… Thanks!

Any insight on how much I can get a discount? Like 5k?

Well obviously. It was the numbers that made me feel I was paying too much.

You really need to step back and learn from the Leasing 101 series of articles here.

A customer who understands nothing more than “this much down and this much a month” is a salesman’s wet dream.

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Don’t feel. Know.

That was my point.

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This line of thinking is such a hyperbole around here lmao.

2021 GLA just came out and only has a $500 incentive from Mercedes. It will cost more as compared to other cars with similar MSRP. That said 8% is a reasonably obtainable discount, 10% would be a stretch and 12% might be possible on a loaner. So you are looking at like $3500 to $4300. Other incentives to check for are fleet (Penfed) and loyalty.


No it’s sanity. A car is usually the second biggest purchase people make, going in informed is the best thing you can do, and being realistic is the second best.


There’s also more than one way to negotiate deals though? This isn’t the first time I’ve seen him say something on the lines of “negotiating based on DAS and monthly is stupid.” It’s a legitimate way of negotiating if you know what kind of deals other people are getting and whatnot.

Lol. I didn’t get my new BMW 330i deal ($46,250 MSRP, 1k DAS, $391/mo tax included, 10k miles, 36 months) arguing with dealerships about getting 1 more percent off the MSRP and fighting for the lowest MF possible.

Some people in here make it seem like it’s impossible to get a good deal only talking about DAS and monthlies with the dealership.


But how do people know that monthly and DAS is fair? If you see a really cheap national special, does that mean it’s good? If you see something really cheap it doesn’t automatically make it a ‘good deal’. The vice versa is also true, if something is a cut above the market for a deal, like @mllcb42’s palisade, just because it’s payment vs MSRP figure is askew doesn’t mean it’s a bad deal.

A broken clock is right twice a day, a blind man can find his way, it’s not the only way, but man does it make it easier coming in with a realistic expectation to what a good deal is versus shooting in the dark letting the dealer dictate the sale.

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Go ahead, you spoon feed the OP then.

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This has been discussed as nauseum here.

There is a significant difference between knowing all the lease details and then using that information to determine a target monthly/das and use that as the “language” of the negotiation and just blindly coming up with a target monthly/das based off of how they “feel” or what they think others got without context.

It will never be in your best interest to not do the due diligence and learn the details of the deal. Negotiate the deal however you want but not first learning the framework of the detail is pure laziness and intentional ignorance. The only person you’re hurting is yourself.

It doesn’t matter if the monthly payment number is lower due to a higher cap cost reduction, or there is no cap cost reduction and the monthly payment number is higher. In both situations you’re paying the same.

Pay no cap cost reduction and get a higher dealer discount before incentives (also, find out what incentives you qualify for).

This is the way.

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