24/15 is 63% and .00192
36/15 is 52% and .00187
39/15 is 50% and .00172
Here are the numbers I am coming up with then based on this information:
24/15 is 63% and .00192 = $619/month
36/15 is 52% and .00187 = $661/month
39/15 is 50% and .00172 = $641/month
In all, they’re quoting me (via email) $576 for 24 months and 15k miles or $599 for 36 months and 15k miles. Which is better than what the calculator is showing. It seems like I am getting a very good deal, right?
What would you guys do given the state of the car market? Take out a 24 or 36 month lease?
Or, LOL, are my numbers totally borked? (I am going to buy premium!)
Your deal is ok. Its not great and its not bad. You should be able to do better discount wise.
Help me out though, how? What would you do?
If I understand the calculator right,
24/15 is 63% and .00192 = $619/month
I should be at that price (above). I’m basically $50 cheaper. What do you think I should be at? What should I tell them tomorrow before I’m supposed to pick it up?
Note that thanks to Harry (huge thanks!) I just got a $1000 coupon code.
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Your discount needs to be larger to make the deal better.
If the calculator is off of their offer sheet by $50/mo, the calculator doesnt reflect their offer.
Your calculator is largely off because youre counting the purchase sales tax as a gov fee on the lease and youre also including tax.
Based on their offer sheet, i would assume that the $717 number includes the gov and dealer fees. If you remove the double counted tax, their numbersbare way high, suggesting that they most likely are fully marking up the mf. That means your discount is actually a lot lower than it looks on paper and there should be a lot more room needed to make this a good deal.
This is basically what they’re offering, without a marked up mf included to bridge the monthly cost gap:
Note that they are not showing $1800 for your trade equity on their breakdown sheet.
Their MF is .00234. The GM confirmed yesterday.
Thanks! I’ll take a look at your numbers.
The sheet I shared has an “auto $1000 off discount for every trade in” + the like $800 since they’re giving me $33000 for my F159. It’s confusing how to build everything up and I explicitly told them that I want to see the numbers separately.
In your opinion, what’s a good deal on this vehicle?
https://www.barnettchryslerjeep.com/new/Jeep/2023-Jeep-Grand+Cherokee+4xe-St+Paul+Minneapolis-066c17900a0e0a996ff74c120c5920f8.htm I’m trying to understand the target and compile all the info needed to contact them tonight so they can prepare a counter or accept in the morning.
What is your trade actually worth based on purchase offers from other dealers?
If theyre including $1000 from the trade equity in the discount, you cant count that in both the discount amount and the equity value.
Without your trade equity, something like this:
They’re telling me my trade is worth $33000. I owe $32,134 on it. But they’re telling me that every trade qualifies for an instant $1000 credit. So “basically, we’re giving you $1800 for it.”
Holy crap! I mean, $485/month would be awesome. Would you simply shoot them an email with this info or how would you frame it up for them?
Doesnt matter what they say. What do other places offer? You need comparison data points.
If you have already agreed on a deal, you don’t have as much leverage. If you haven’t, i would simply suggest you make them an offer of what youre willing to pay and tell them if they accept toull be there in an hour to take delivery.
Thanks. Assume I’m going to take your calculator example. Would I simply add that info into an email and say, “hey new dealership, I want this car at this price, can you make it work?” Or what script do you recommend? Sorry for all the probably dumb newbie questions.
Your goal is to be the quickest, easiest sale theyve ever had.
I usually say something like “I am interested in stock number xxxx. I’d like to make an offer of $x for a 24/15k lease on that vehicle through ccap, contingent on tier 1 credit approval and x% tax rate for xxxxx zip code. In addition to the standard incentives, i also have the $1000 jeep.com tdm. If these terms are acceptable, I am available to come take delivery within 2 hours.”
I usually break down the price in detail, but some people prefer to just list a monthly and due at sale amount.
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Get a quote from carvana.com if they are available in your area. I’ve never been in a situation where it made sense to trade my car as part of the new car deal, but maybe your local tax situation makes it worthwhile.
For me, I’d rather keep the new car and old car transactions separate. Dealers would love to offset any discount they are giving you on the new car by stealing your old car from you.
What is the trade?
An F150. According to Carvana, if they’re giving me $1800, it’s a good number.
So interestingly, I re-worked the calculator to match their online offer, and now everything matches perfectly. I’m starting to understand how the calculator works!!
However, what constitutes a “good deal?” Their online offer is $560 per month with a money factor of 0.00187 which is not the money factor (.00234) they gave me which I will deal with.
From what I gather, 8% off MSRP is a better deal, but how do you justify reaching out to a dealer saying as much? How do you decide what is a realistic % off MSRP to begin the negotiation?
I have re-worked the numbers, and here’s and I am coming out at $450/month if I get the following:
- 7% off MSRP
- $500 empoyee affiliate program discount
- $1000 Chrysler Cash Bonus
Does that sound reasonable? Thoughts?
You need to get a lot more offers.
I sold my wrangler for about $7k more than what carvana offered.
i also wouldnt assume they will give you anything for affiliate at 7% off. Most dealers wont do anything beyond 1% under invoice with affiliate.
As far as their offer numbers, that $560 does not include tax, title, license, and some fees. You need to include all of that in a real offer.
So this is fantastic…
Dumb question: I would like to try that (reaching out to another dealer) on this vehicle but as you can see, they don’t have any specials or dicsounts listed vs. here. So, how do you approach another deal that doesn’t have any of the incentives/bonuses and what not listed?
The incentives are set by jeep/the bank, not the dealer.
What the dealer advertises is irrelevant. I never even bother looking at what they post.