Hellcat, $500 a month, nothing down!

Spend a little money to send them a certified letter. They will fold immediately

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lol @ you dropping it off at the dealer actually. So many examples of Hackrs standing their ground, why did you not?

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My drive off was $3,000. I am moving out state very soon,
that’s why I dropped the car off. And it saved me $ for
insurance. Told them they have 14 days to send a check
or they will be hearing from my Attorney.

I will update as needed.

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I bet you can get an attorney to draft a letter for less than $200.

You need written communication sent by certified letter.

http://www.nolo.com/legal-encyclopedia/free-books/small-claims-book/chapter6-4.html

In your case attorney fees would be minimal so the cost of mediation or small claims is comparable with an attorney more likely to yield the desired result.

They’re going to make you wait the 14 days.

My assumption is that the deal had nothing in writing, that said it was refundable?

Here is what I would advise.

Option One - Call your local new department’s scam/hokey business correspondent and sell them your story. They might give you a few bucks for the info and will absolutely slam the dealership in the 5 o clock news in a few days.

Option Two - Avoid the attorney contact route and just file in small claims court for the 3k. It’s likely your court charges `~$50 or so to file and have someone served via mail. They will not go to court - they will avoid court like the plague.

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Small claims is not the way to go. He said he’s moving out of state. These are also complicated contractual law issues, and since he can only represent himself it would take a lot of homework to quote chapter and verse in the court room where as the dealer will have a ton of experience at this. Serving a small claims notice is great for someone obviously damaged property or did poor quality work and there is a liability at stake, it’s not very suitable for this situation.

You’re correct - that was also poor wording on my part.

I’d imagine this amount can be filed as a general civil, however.

I would also say, as someone who has been sued while working for a dealership and having, myself sued a dealership -they’ve never let it hit court.

I certainly cannot decide what @stang837, decides to do.

Either way, it’s likely they have to fork back the 3k.

Hey Ministry, I want that deal. Can the sales rep that did you deal match it and give me the same deal? I’m in socal as well

How did you pay for the drive off? Credit card? If so tell them you will call your CC company and file a dispute and they can deal with that.

I am no lawyer, but you are failing to show how the change in the contract would prove to be an undue and unjust burden on you. Sure, it just so happens that you wanted out of the car anyway and there is an opportunity to do so. In this case, an amicable agreement is best. Dealer sales/leases are always subject to financing approval and you just dropping off does not entitle you to a refund. Suppose the case was slightly different and they said for the contract to be approved you need to show you utility bill. You refuse to do so, why would that entitle you to a refund? You are supposed to do your best reasonable effort to fulfil the contract and in case of material changes, show how the changes would affect you and seek justifiable compensation for changes.

Of course, you can lawyer up, serve papers, go to small claims court, blah blah blah but I am sure that’s not how you want to spend the next few months. And if you lose your case, you could be liable for payments while the “case” is being decided and/or have your credit impacted for default. Just some worse case situations to be aware of :slight_smile:

This is false. OP’s credit would not be impacted as the lease has not yet been bought my ANYONE, so the dealer still owns the car. So… there’s no one to make payments to…

If this contract dispute ever makes it to a mediation hearing (dealer had OP sign docs to stipulate mediation in case of dispute, SOP) dealer will prevail. All the dealer needs to show is that 1) they suffered monetary damages as a result of you breaking contract AND 2)they are willing to make you ‘whole’ per original terms you agreed upon: reimburse you for the difference of extra miles at .25 per mile over what you agreed to in contract, at end of lease, or buy your car at the end. Dealer’s counsel can bolster their case by offering to deposit a token sum in court’s registry to be retained for duration of lease.

But there’s a big ‘However’:

It will cost more brain damage and $$ than 3k. So OP writing letters and lawyering up is a waste of time and money if dealer wants to take a hard line. OP should find compromise, perhaps offer dealer half of the 3k to show good faith and help dealer offset its costs on a now used car. Compromise is best, try not to make it a win win for you and a lose lose for dealer or you may end up getting your car back in 8 months with 8 payments owed.

Edit: depending on how good OP’s credit is, dealer could choose to underwrite this contract in house, and bill you for lease monthly payments directly.

Are these deals on Charger Hellcats still doable? I contacts a few dealers local and couldn’t get close to the discounts seen here.

Cheers!

Looks like there is one $500 Hellcat waiting for you at the dealer that @stang837 is returning to.

So @stang837 could just disappear with car? There is no contract, no payment nothing. So he has a free car with no responsibility?

Because he actually does not want the car anyways, so that’s why he is not standing his ground …

LOL. … 20 chars…And what would said letter contain? In the name of the lord of leasehackrs, I hereby command thee to refund me all monies disbursed?

No, I was just staying the OP’s credit would not be impacted with Chrysler Cap, actually why don’t you call Chrysler Capital OP and see what’s going on their end.

Just scare me a bit. in my experience, NY area dealers fold at the site of any legal action. A certified letter just states that you aren’t afraid of legal action

I think the way to go is lease this car first and then buy it at end of lease, its a car thats a keeper for the long term. Just negotiate a good price, same as buying a car. Leasing this car and returning it could cost you alot of money on wear and tear, tires brakes ,etc. That’s where they get you bad. Happened to my buddy on his bimmer, $5500 end of lease on wear and tear.