Nice score. I’m still trying get.mine to 800, I’m in the upper 700s and have been for a while. I don’t know what algorithms are working against me but my payment history is perfect, debt to ratio is great yet I still can’t get my score above 800, should I take out a couple of more credit cards, what have you done to get to 3 points below perfect (850)?
@Traderx tbh, no inquiries with 3% revolving credit. All my expenditure runs on my CC for points and made sure to make some movements on your revolving, 1-5% every month and you’ll see your score moves up quickly.
Hey, I resemble that remark.
This deal paid for the whole boat, not just a few payments. 
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I’d say buying a loaf of bread at 7/11 once in a while is a far more recoverable choice than 9 bills on a Honda 36 times.
If it saves you 15 minutes it’s probably worth doing.
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What is the fix for this to mitigate the damage? I love to here from experts about what they would do if they were OP?
Try to see how much it is worth now via vroom or something similar. If the difference isn’t too great maybe just pay to get out of it.
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Think he can get a loan with that score and just buy it out? On a longer term loan his payment would likely go down and would have a chance at equity sooner.
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Check a few credit unions maybe.
Have lived in NY… there are a lot of rough areas… and having a nice new car parked in the area. I can only imagine these cars not being there after a day or two…
Just saying…
Unlike the FICO 8, which goes to 850, a perfect score on the FICO Auto 8 is 900.
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Interesting. I wonder why the different scale for auto. Does this vary by bureau?
There’s an “Auto Enhanced” Equifax score too - different risk/scoring model. A-tier is A-tier, no bragging rights in algorithms just cut-offs.
My suggestion to OP: if for ANY reason they call and ask him to resign, don’t - make them take the car back. If (for instance) they were over advance, they might call him and say he needs to resign and bring another $XX dollars. Don’t.
If it has any cancellable products (warranty, maintenance, lo-jack, wheel and tire) then cancel them now and get them refunded.
Suggestion about Carmax/Vroom to see what payoff is good, but easily several thousand wasted on tag/title/taxes.
On a RARE occasion, a call to the general sales manager or the general manager explaining that you feel railroaded and sore the day after MIGHT get some lenience like “you don’t have to buy THAT car, but you have to buy A car” and they MIGHT put him in something less expensive. I’ve seen that happen 2 or 3 times over the years (once to my sister). But you have to plead your case right since you have no recourse. “I’m getting a lawyer and going to sue” never works. You are appealing to their almost magical ability to shred a cashable contract and unwind your deal (if it hasn’t been titled yet) and put you in something else (I don’t think this website is rated for the parenthetical example that goes here). 1 for 1 maintains Sales’ monthly objective/stair-step, and giving up something more popular for something less never hurts (Pilot for Insight anyone?). Still, someone who was getting paid on some part of the transaction (front or back) just had their mythical boat reduced to 1 boat payment.
Solid deal. 5-Fap Deal.
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Would you have thrown in a Type R at MSRP with a $900/mo Pilot?
Aside from the recommendation of getting the car stolen or burned…
For a person willing to spend 900+ on a Honda… they must be doing ok financially.
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Type R prices just went UP! Shipping one to Ohio next week
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Do they allow leases on type R’s? If they do, I think that’s still cheaper than $900/month. Lol
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If you lease a Type R with me I will work hard to get you over 1k a month! No bum-ass broker needed.
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