Dealer Wants me to sign new contract

Hey everyone, brand new here, just stumbled upon this forum while looking for some answers and I found a lot thanks to some previous posts.

To make a long story short, I was absolutely 100% the sucker at a dealership where they made no less than $3-$4k at a minimum on my deal, I’m thinking more. I signed a lease and after I signed it, I realized they jacked the price way above MSRP (yes, my mistake, I had my 2 little kids with me and was trying to hurry to feed them, lesson learned). I contacted my sales person, the F&I person, the Sales Manager, and the GM expressing my severe dissatisfaction that they pulled that garbage on me. Anyways, they obviously had no reason to deal with me, so they ignored me and never contacted me back and I moved on, I can afford it and the GF really wanted the car (emotional decision, never wise :frowning: ).

Fast forward 13 days, they call me and need me to sign a new contract now. The F&I manager tells me that they MF changed due to a system glitch they had that day, all of their stuff went down so they couldn’t submit any applications (it was the Friday before 4th of July) and couldn’t submit until Tuesday and now they won’t approve the MF. So, she said they’re doing me a huge favor and the extra $1,000 MF charge they’re taking off the purchase price of the car, so my payment won’t change.

I’m not worried about the payment, I can afford it, it’s more of the principle to me. I wasn’t happy, tried to rectify with them and was basically told F you by them and now they need me to sign a new contract. I’m in NV so we don’t have a lot of buyer protection laws, but, it sounds like there’s a good chance the deal didn’t get funded from what I’ve read and I can likely take the car back.

My question is, is there any way to know that the deal did in fact not get funded on the terms stated in my contract, or are they just trying to renegotiate for a different lender that’s giving them a kickback? I only ask because I have an 830 credit and make 20x my payment amount, with almost no debt, the original MF APR was around 2.9%, I find it hard to believe they couldn’t fund that with Toyotas finance system. I don’t want to try and take this car back and get burned in the process. But, I’m definitely not going to look a gift horse in the mouth as I know this kind of opportunity is probably once in a lifetime and if I have the chance, I’d take this thing back in a heartbeat. If I do take back, should I get any kind of receipt or document from the dealer indicating my original deal has been voided or anything like that?

Thanks for your advice in advance!

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The easiest way to check if your deal funded is to try to log into GMF’s website and look for your loan info. If you can’t find it, or if you can’t make an account because they don’t have an active loan for you, then you have your answer. Call the GM back and tell him that you’re not interested in signing a replacement contract at any price, and ask when he’d like his car back.


It does seem legitimate. I don’t think they’d ask you back into the dealership if they didn’t have a reason to. If the deal didn’t fund, then you could technically try to return the car. Don’t be surprised if in that case they play around with the paperwork and get it approved anyway. I suppose you could go back there and relay to them about how you’re unhappy with the deal and that you want any markups over MSRP removed since you overlooked them the first time.

I’m curious to hear other hackr’s opinions.

Edit: if it bothers you that much and the deal hasn’t been funded/car hasn’t been registered yet which it likely hasn’t, you do have the leverage to tell them you’re willing to sign the deal again with the MSRP markups taken off or that you’d like to return the vehicle. It’s admittedly not great on your part if you agreed to a certain payment and noticed after the fact but it’s also not great when dealers aren’t transparent about unnecessary fees/add-ons.

Strictly speaking - If they need you to resign, that means the contract will not/ cannot be accepted by the lender.

Morally it’s whatever you choose, but if you refuse to sign they will just ask for the car back.


Maybe you can be the second “buyers remorse gets unwound” in a week?

If you can/do return it, you will have to tomorrow — what are you going to replace it with?


You have gotten extremely lucky. Return the car.

Everything they’re saying about resigning sounds legitimate, it happens quite a bit.

Just be aware they may try to lie to you or try to pressure you into resigning. The contract couldn’t be funded so just return the car.

You will have to find another car, though, and Nevada isn’t necessarily known for being a great car market.


What was your original deal and what car though?

If GF really wants the car, why not just rework the deal entirely?

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It’s a Rav4 XLE, MSRP was at 31,800 - it had 2 rebates at $1500 - should have been 30,300. It ended up having a capitalized cost of 34,700. Lease payment is $525 with a RV of 19,900. Although I noticed on the 2nd contract they dropped the RV down to $19,600, not sure if that is part of the original issue or not.

Las Vegas is particularly tough on cars right now, so I wouldn’t ball at paying MSRP right now, almost every dealer is charging market adjustment fees, but almost every other dealer is upfront about those fees. This one hid it and said nothing and yes, absolutely my mistake for not doing the math myself and seeing it in the contract. I’ve never leased before, I’ve always bought before this, so I’m not that familiar with leasing.

I work from home and I have another car my GF can use until my kids go back to school, so I’ve really got about another 6 weeks or so before I would actually need the car. I would even go as far as flying/driving it back to save 4-5k on the car, which I may end up doing if I can’t get this dealer to change the price. I’ll start there though and see if they’ll bring the price down to MSRP, because I have no issue with the car itself and would be fine with it at MSRP, just not 4k over. If they refuse to work the deal, then I’ll look at just taking it back.

I’ll post an update here in a day or two with what happens and thanks for your feedback, I really appreciate it and definitely learned a lesson in leasing this year!

Can you post a copy of your contract with your personal info blocked out. It might help us help you understand what went wrong or if it’s more of a misunderstanding of how leases are structured.

Yeah, I sure can when I get home (I’m out of town and headed back he today). And I’m sure I realized that I mis spoke there. It had a selling price of 34,000 and I think the capitalized was around 38,000 or so. But yes, I’ll be glad to snap a pic and attach it.

@Cody_Carter may have something for you in AZ.


My opinion doesn’t matter at all, but personally I would return the car out of principle. You didn’t like how they treated you, and you luckily have an opportunity to make them regret that.

It seems like worst case scenario you could probably get this same deal somewhere else, but with the hope it would be better. I am usually not a revenge type guy, but in this scenario, I would hand them the keys and walk away.


Agree - after they jacked you in the first place and then ignored you, I would just return the car with miles on it and let them deal with the depreciation.

I would not be happy making payments for 3 years leasing from a business that ripped me off…

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Ouch. $525/month for a RAV4. There are plenty of better cars you can find in that price range, which I’m only saying now since you do have the ability to essentially undo the deal.

A fair amount of Toyota dealers do throw on add-ons. It’s not uncommon so it honestly might be difficult to find a dealer selling a RAV4 at MSRP in this market.

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Tell them “ I may be naive but I am not an idiot”.


“Fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice, shame on me.”


Fool me three times and I gouge your f-ing eyes out.



Give them their car back and order a Wrangler 4xe.


Here’s the lease details.

I was off by a little, purchase at 33,840 (sticker MSRP 30,569) cap at 34,490.

I just checked on TFT - tried to register an account (15 days after contract date now), says not found. I do also see there is a paper that says they have a right of rescission if the deal can’t be assigned to the lender.

For some reason this will not let me upload a picture of the lease, but here’s the info:

Purchase price: 33,840
Capitalized: 34,490
RV: 19,870
Depreciation: 14620
Rent: 2837
Base: 17457
36 months/12,000 miles
Base Monthly: 484.94
Tax: 40.61
Total: 525.55

When I was talking to the sales guy he told me and his quote sheet said purchase of $31864 (has a protection on it I said I don’t need and he’s like, it’s already on it, sorry) with 1500 rebates for a total of 30364 - so that’s what I thought I was getting.