the link doesn’t seem to be working, i’m unable to get the bonus coupon. I’ve tried several times but no luck.
Try a few different browsers / incognito mode, etc. It took me multiple tries until I got it to work. It ultimately worked on my phone and I got the email within seconds.
It’s a new programming technique - gameify the distribution of coupons by introducing random errors…
Did you have to go pickup in Norcal or would they deliver to a local dealer? I Dmed you and am in SoCal and would like to replicate this deal.
Dealer refusing to honor $1000 email discount, maxing rebates to $8250. He says it doesn’t stack with family discount. Currently Off by $1000 to meet targeted $9250 rebate. Any inputs appreciated
Most useful, pragmatic vehicle. At one point, I had THREE Chrysler minivans at the same time.
I just finally quit driving/owning one of my two 1996 Car of the Year Dodge Grand Caravan, not too long ago.
You should be able to stack it
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Call Chrysler Incentives and tell them the issue. They’ll share a case #. You can share that with the dealer and he’ll be able to stack it. $$ isnt coming from dealer so they shouldn’t have any issues
Not following you here… what does this mean?
I was using the RV on a lease of the same car as a proxy to see whether the net owed on the car (after all discounts, rebates, and tax credits) in Year 3 was a good deal. If Chrysler thinks the car will be worth about $23K after Year 3 (their RV), my effective cost remaining at the same time is about $13,250 (this takes my actual monthly payment * 24 remaining months, less the value of the tax credit over that same time period).
It made sense to me, sorry if it was convoluted, but ultimately I was trying to use the RV as a proxy for the value in Year 3 and a test against having positive equity at that time.
Hope this helps
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You’re better off looking at the current value of a 2-3-year old equivalent vehicle than relying on the RV as a measure of what it’s worth in 2-3 years. KBB, Edmunds, etc.
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Yep… that’s fair.
I did that too (was in the low 20’s) but I was a little concerned with the 2017/2018 being an early model Hybrid with a decent amount of issues.
Either way, it’s a back of the envelope test and I feel pretty good with owing $13,250 at the end of Year 3, considering my net monthly payment of around $550 (net of the monthly amortization of the 7,500 Fed tax credit) with zero DAS.
Lease payments are different because Chrysler gets the federal rebate as well and they dont provide these incentives . I looked at both options and purchase looked a better solution. I think I should be able to sell this for 25k in 2-3 years. So a car that I paid 24k for approx with taxes. This is a stellar deal
Keep us posted when you eventually sell
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It’s 2-3 years down the road but carvana, vroom and other companies were buying it for $27-28 and got an offer or 36k right now while my cost without taxes is $19k so we’ll see.
If you have an offer for $36k, take it. This used car bubble won’t last.
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I’m about to close but the dealer couldn’t find my truecar code and I wasn’t able to get the $1000.00 from the Chrysler website to work. Does anyone have any tips to get the Truecar certificate or an extra $1,000 code?
Thanks @dg17 for the hookup and OP for posting!
Yes it did come across my mind since I can buy another car for this price and take the same depreciation however pretty happy with it right now
For folks who’ve purchased it, don’t forget to apply for $250 Bonus https://allstate.bonusdrive.com/
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Anyoneknow if there was any change in February?
I’d like to do this deal but need to move existing 2018 Pacifica limited.
Maturity is 3/2022 and payoff is close to $30k meaning there is at least 5k in negative equity if not more.
Additionally I really wanted a awd version but seems there are very few of those, especially in 2020.
I’m sure they could factor it into the new car but hate taking such a big loss.