2020 BMW X3M. Midwest. First time Hacker. Have reached out to brokers, but lease hacking has become fascinating to me. So I figured I would try to see what I can do on my own. After getting 2 awful deals, I finally got one I might be able to work with, but I can’t get the numbers to add up in the calculator. I think it’s just me not understanding how to use it, so perhaps this can be a learning opportunity. I must be missing taxes or something? I know my state has a sales tax and a personal property tax (applies to cars) but usually that’s paid when you register the car.
Note: His quote has $3,500 down but I will not be putting any down and putting it all towards MSDs. He added that in… I think to make the numbers look more “appealing” to me.
Time is money, so instead of screwing around with dealers who aren’t going to play ball, just pay the $400 broker fee (imo). My x3m was a slighter higher msrp, no money down, and I pay $200 less a month.
I think they are using the 3500 in rebates to cover drive offs. I believe that quote is zero drive off. Personally I would keep MSDs out of the deal until the end.
This is a sellers market and you are fighting the good fight. You have cured yourself of the awful deal disease - you definitely have a deal you can work with. Here are my observations:
How are you getting to $3,500 total I rebates. $1,500 lease cash + $1,000 loyalty I assume + what?
I don’t think your dealer is asking for any money down. It looks like he is using your rebates to cover inception fees and reducing your cap $2,212.92.
Your 9.5% pre-incentive discount is a little on the lower side of what’s possible (assuming MF buy rate). If you look at recent BMW deal post here you will see folks getting a bigger discount.
You calculator is using the buy rate MF, make sure the deal is using it as well.
Your calculator is off because you have given full value for rebates as cap reduction. Your dealer is using some of the rebates to cover inception fees. See calculator instructions on how tom handle.
$3,500 is $3000 lease cash + $500 for conquest. It will actually be $4000 as I have Corp discount. So I think they’ll take that over the conquest since I’ve read on here it can’t be stacked. You were 100% correct on the cap cost. I confirmed with the dealer that it’s $0 drive off. And I modified the tax incentives under the cap cost adjustment and now my numbers are matching. The MF is at the buy rate… Now to work on that discount. Thanks all!
Honestly, if your calculator is in order with the deal that is currently on the table and you are comfortable at a price with a slightly higher discount, I would go in for the kill (I.e you are 10% off pre incentive, but 11.5 would satisfy you-just using this as example).
It’s midday on a Saturday in the middle of a pandemic, the worst they can say is no.
He came back at 11.15% but I’m confused on how he got there. He said he found an additional $1,300. He lowered the price of the car by $1,300. The additional rebate shows under cash collected on item 24) but I’m trying to figure out where they other $300 came from.
If it’s really zero DAS then looks really solid to me. 718 per month effective pre tax (only paying 35 payments) on that car in this low inventory environment is a good achievement. And this is before MSDs correct? What’s the residual on 24 month? May be worth running it through the calculator.
Here is how it would be structured using $3000 lease cash, $1000 fleet. I capped your taxes on incentives and $390 dealer fee… Moved incentives to untaxed, not to have them taxed again in the calculator.
Sorry to keep you hanging. So the best that he can do with $0 drive is 11.2% off MSRP (basically just take the $1,000 out of the incentives in Bacon’s calculator).
There was a “mistake” with the $1,000 down. The guy I’m working with told me it was “working cash” but then he told me he was incorrect and it was $1,000 out of my pocket. I tried to get a little more off, but he said they’re at the bottom line. He said let him know if I wanted it before Monday as the incentives may get better, worse, or stay the same (we’re texting).
Does today still count for July? They might need this unit gone tonight.
I’d go in for the kill if you like your numbers: Tell them “we’re so close, if you can shave just a tiny bit more off here, I’ve got my credit card number for you for a deposit to hold the car and my social for a credit application.”
And if they don’t budge. Just shop this number and tell other dealer 1% beat on this gets you a deal right now.
