Audi RS5 Lease vs Purchase

Hello Hackrs,
I’m currently situated in a lease on a 2019 Audi RS5. I just signed the deal yesterday. I know I know… I should be checking with you guys before I sign anything… But, I’m checking now because I have the option to turn this lease into a financed purchase. I’m trying to figure out the smartest financial decision between the 2. I know the lease I signed isn’t the greatest that’s why I inquired about switching to a purchase. Its common knowledge RS cars just don’t lease well but its what I wanted and I was willing to sacrifice a bit to get it. I prefer leasing because I typically don’t keep cars for longer than 3 years or so.
I’ll attach a photo of the current lease deal but some key pieces of information… I brought in $7200 of negative equity into this deal. 4k down. The original MSRP was $91,500 and Gross Cap Cost was $82,100. Money factor .0020375 (Can’t remember exactly but around there)
1523.61 a month at 42/7,500 :grimacing:
Switching to finance would look like this…
Same 4k down
Gross cap cost $82,100
60 mo at 4.49% $1730 monthly
72mo at 4.99% $1495 monthly
Honestly don’t think I could swing 1700 a month so leaning more towards 72 months.

I already know I’m going to get butchered in the comments but I’m already doing that myself. So just any advice and help would be appreciated.

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Wew lad…


It’s actually a lot worse than that…



I don’t know anything about your situation.

However, it appears you absolutely despise your financial future and that of any current or potential offspring.

Are you aware of the implications of carrying $7k (YIKES!) of negative equity at a MF of 0.002XXX?

That act alone adds thousands to this lease. Which confirms suspicions that you hate your money.

I’ll not get started on “wait a few months / year or so and avoid the negative equty” etc.

Deal metrics aside, this is a decision I’d invite you to discuss with anyone who will talk you out of it.



The most important question in this deal is what color boat did the dealer buy?


I don’t understand the question. If you already leased the car then your financed sum would be based on the buyout quote from Audi Financial. That would be the totality of your remaining payments and residual value. It would make 0 sense to finance this car new plus negative equity and given your 42 month term plus the openness to a 72 month loan, you seem to be chasing a monthly payment and not seeing the big picture.

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The first dealer. The current Audi RS5 dealer is checking out these.


I guess that was bumped up behind my back :ok_hand:t3:

If the contract was altered after you signed, you have a huge lawsuit.

Spoiler: it wasn’t.



You signed the paperwork agreeing to it…

What was buy rate? What did they tell you they were charging in your negotiations?

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How did that compare with the Edmunds info you spent 5 minutes procuring before pulling the trigger on a depreciating asset with a price of nearly $90,000?


Here’s a question… WHO is giving you the option of turning this into a purchase deal now? A third party buyout? Or did you call the dealer with cold feet and they offered to switch it to a purchase deal?

Yes I did…Stupidly I didn’t double check when signing… During the negotiations MF was what I listed at the top.

I talked to the dealer about switching it to a purchase.

They stated this value or your tried to back calculate it? No dealer is going to provide a 7 digit long MF number unless there was some major confusion somewhere.

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Yes I back calculated it… It was 4.872%

If it were me I’d talk to them about stopping payment on my check and returning the car, but I’m not really sure what your options are at this point. At that lease payment you’re almost paying for the car in its entirety as is after three years. And do you really want to be on the hook for owning that? Depreciation, maintenance, repairs, etc…

Are you sure that the dealer wasn’t giving you purchase aprs? I’ve seen plenty of times when someone saw a dealer doing a certain purchase apr and just assume that applied to leases. (not that 4.872% makes sense for that either)

A dealer certainly isn’t going to give you MF as a 4 sig fig apr number.

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No they gave me the MF and I calculated it into a percentage

The dealer told you the mf was “.0020375” and you calculated that to 4.872%? Just trying to understand how you got to where you ended up.

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