Are these good lease deals? $0DAS for all: Accord Sport SE, Lexus is300 w/ red interior, Kia K5 GT-Line w/ red interior

And he or she hasn’t come back since. So there’s that.

Will this fall into the many mysteries of the Leasehack’d? What happened to the guy with the $900/mo pilot? See you on next weeks episode of Unsolved Mystery-hackr

Unsolved Mysteries GIF by FILMRISE

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Funny. It’s not a mystery. I do have a question, though. Equity is variable, so what should I do if one dealer is willing to give me more equity for my tease than another? Does that make it a better deal or not? Carvana gave me negative equity for my trade…twice. Contrary, I just found out today that another dealer is offering me 6k for my trade. HONDA ACCORD, btw.

The fact that you are asking means you still don’t understand how this all works. They can give you $10 million equity and it doesn’t mean diddly squat if you overpay for the new car by $11 million.

Okay. Yeah, I don’t understand that. Can you break it down for me, please?!

I think that’s what happening with the Accord Sport SE deal.

You want to negotiate the new lease independently. Get a decent handle on that first and make sure you’re getting an acceptable deal.

Then bring up the trade and try to maximize how much they offer for it.

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stop trying to make it more difficult than it needs to be.

@max_g is right, of course, that you want to separate the deals so you don’t get confused.

But, to clarify what I mean, if Supermarket A is charging $10.99 for Purdue chicken but offering a $1 coupon in the circular and Supermarket B is charging $9.49 and no coupon, which is the better deal? The coupon represents your trade, in this case.

Supermarket A is the better deal of course so you can tell everyone you saved a dollar.

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Well, Supermarket B in that instance. Ergo, the Sport SE deal is out the window.

Well, actually. No. Because, using your same analogy, if the coupon was for $2 off, Supermarket A would be the better deal. That’s… kind of what the Accord Sport SE is, actually.

Or do I still not understand?

You sell the old vehicle to whomever will give you the most for it since you negotiated the new vehicle completely independent of any discussion about a trade to avoid this exact issue.

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You are correct. As long as you look at the overall deal and not just what they are giving you for your trade (coupon).

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The problem here is that your deal is now completely out of context, making it impossible to compare against others’ deals. You’re throwing away your greatest tool while shopping and forcing yourself to do everything in a vacuum.

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Okay, I understand.

And yes, I’m trying to convince myself to do the Accord deal…or not.

So, what exactly would make this a bad deal? If the RV remains the same, regardless.

I completely understand this. I wish that I had started this way.

Currently, you have no idea what any of these deals actually are. They may be great deals or they may be horrible deals.

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Until you have any better things to go off of, just assume the dealer offering $6k equity is accurate. Look at all of these deals as being whatever they are monthly but with $6k das.

Or for an easier comparison, take whatever their monthly is and add $175/mo

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Yes good deals considering current market!

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Based on how much assumed equity?

3 posts were merged into an existing topic: Off Topic Landfill 5

Well, for someone who doesn’t know what they are doing, or who is bad at math. Some of us can walk and chew gum at the same time, so it isn’t a hard and fast rule that everyone separate all parts at all times. But, regardless, what you are saying is good, safe advice for the general population. So I agree.