When you’re calling around to see if a dealer will knock 5-7% or so off MSRP, how are you approaching that? Also, are you using a particular vehicle that they have in stock already and you’re interested in?
With all the 18/10 deals I’ve been seeing for a while has anyone looked into leasing one after the first 18/10? With that much warranty left I’d be fine in leasing a used one (assuming a good price)
I don’t think anyone is generally aware of leasing a used one, but it is generally possible to extend an existing lease 6 months with Nissan.
1 Like
With only very, very rare exception (usually where the badge is shaped like a shield), leasing something used is a horrible idea. They almost always cost a good bit more than just leasing the same vehicle new.
2 Likes
Caleb,
I typically start by cruising cars.com or CarGurus to find a model I am interested in. I refine my search to 100 miles or so away and then I sort oldest to newest. I usually purchase within 30 miles but it is good to see all options. Pick 5 dealers and stock numbers.
Pick a car/truck that has lots of options, inherently they have more margin to work with. In my example my pro4x has everything, even the kicker audio tailgate speaker and $500.00 decals. Base models have less wiggle.
Older units sometimes have more wiggle, other times it is indictive of a stubborn dealer. Hit or miss.
I then call and find someone in sales. I tell them I’m looking at the stock number I want and begin the haggling. I do this often by text message with the sales guy, sometimes live… Never in person. I let them know if I come in, I am signing a deal. This comes easy to me, I’ve been a sales guy for 15+ years, your results may vary.
Key point here is the negotiate the purchase price of the truck. Nothing else. No rebates, just purchase price. Then get all the details, dealer fees etc and get that totaled. Some dealers will charge extra stuff, don’t allow it. I let standard dealer fees fly, they can make a few bucks there but don’t get screwed in dealer add in fees.
Good luck!
4 Likes
So do you tell the person is sales that you’re planning to lease the vehicle? Or do you tell them that after you’ve negotiated down the MSRP?
Good point and I’m assuming the way they are doing the RVs it would only be a couple dollars cheaper even if all the terms were as good/better than a new
MSRP doesn’t get negotiated, it’s set in stone. You are looking to negotiate the sales price of the vehicle before incentives. Use the calculator and incentive lookup tool to build a realistic deal based on the incentives, programs, taxes and fees in your zip code. Make an offer to the dealer with those numbers laid out so there’s no confusion about what you are looking for.
No, just the $ off MSRP first. Nothing else - no lease/buy, no trade, no incentives, no anything.
As far as the searching, I would start with the following:
-
Nissan Build Page - you can locate the one you want within 500 miles and always see the window sticker, whether it is on the ground or in transit, etc.
-
Dealer website - make sure it is still there, how many “views” it has had over time, etc.
-
Then go to CarGurus, Autotrader or cars.com, etc. to see how long it has been there (not all sites/ads will tell you this).
You can call each dealer individually, but good luck getting the GM, GSM or SM on the phone initially. Some dealer pages have the email addresses for staff and I would start there, email just the dealmakers with authority and give them the stock # and that you are interested. Use a burner email without your name and cell number as well.
Awesome thank you! I paid to become a super support and the calculator is awesome! I just found the Nissan Frontier S Crew Cab 4x4 is a RV of 96% and there is one at my local dealer. If I put down 7 MSDs and one pay it, and I can wriggle them down to 5% off MSRP then I’m sub $200 a month total cost all in.
1 Like
Sounds like a great plan.
I also believe you can put 9 MSDs down as well to get it even lower.
The calculator says 7, but I’ve seen a bunch of people say 9. So I’ll ask at the dealership! I’m excited to call tomorrow and see if I can work something out. Part of me wants the bonkers deal of a Frontier S 4x4, sub $200 is pennys for a brand new truck. But part of me also wants the fully loaded Pro4x
1 Like
According to the calculator, the max is 5 MSD on the Nissan One Pay lease.
It’s important to be willing to cast a wider net than just your local dealer. Reach out to multiple dealers within a radius you are comfortable traveling. In this instance I would focus on sales price first and make a numerical offer. Don’t just say “I want 7% off”. Make a dollar figure offer to them. From there you can start to discuss the leasing specifics. Don’t be surprised to have dealers reject your offer even after agreeing to your selling price. Once they see what you are trying to accomplish they simply might not want to lease a car to you for that low of a payment.
1 Like
The calculator is wrong. See the OP in this thread and these as well. 9 is the max:
1 Like
^^^ These are BS right? I talked to a dealer about 45min from me and they gave me this on a Frontier S. Residual Value of the S Crew Cab 4x4 is 96%. But that monthly bill - even on the one pay - seems higher than it ought to be.
Its confusing with NMAC as the max with single pay is 9…but the max on a monthly lease is 5. Why…because Nissan 
2 Likes
Using the dealer’s zip and tax rate for their location, the monthly is right but everything else is wrong. On top of that, the discount is weak (2.05%).
Your numbers plugged in at the bottom.
I would shoot for a selling price of $34,814 which is only $100 above the RV (and still weak) but it will still fund from NMAC. Otherwise they have to mess with the number or cut you a check on the side to make it work/fund with NMAC.
Your monthly is then $242
1 Like
So I filled out the calculator the exact same way you did. But at the dealership they are giving me different numbers. It seems like they have the MSDs correct, but I I can’t seem to figure out why the monthly lease payment would still be $273 in that 1pay quote. Idk how to tell them ‘hey my online calculator said it should be cheaper’ without sounding like an idiot. Any advice here would be great lol. Should I ask for a fully itemized contract so I can pick out where they are charging me extra? They started by trying to give me a $500 service contract which I had them remove already.
Also I should note that I’ve been going for the Frontier S Crew Cab 4x4 because the RV is 96% and the total cost of the vehicle is a bit cheaper, but it seems to be pretty diffcult to get them to budge on those models. I keep hearing that they have more wriggle room on the Pro4x models because they have a higher mark up. That seems reasonable. Should I instead just got for a Pro4x? I’m wondering if these 2-3% discounts from MSRP will end up making me pay about the same price as if I get 5% on a pro4x. If its the same price I guess I should just go for the nicer model.