She want a q5 this bad? Go to the marketplace and find a broker to talk some sense. Save some money, because 20k to rent a 50k car for 3 years is 
.
No one can help you if you don’t help yourself. Being new isn’t an excuse, everyone was new to leasing once.
A lot of people took a lot of time and effort to write out explanations of everything related to leasing here. There are no secrets.
You’re coming off as someone wanting to be spoonfed all the answers instead of putting in the effort yourself.
It’s up to you to change that perception. Otherwise this thread is and will be a huge waste of everyone’s time.
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Rich sorry spell check. multiple security deposits
You have 6 months on your current lease. Take your time and research to save thousands. You could get so many similar models for $6k+ less over the lease term. IMHO, just wait until the lease is over. Is there any reason you absolutely need a new car now?
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No real urgency. She just wants a new car.
Do your homework, I’m 17 and can get this stuff, and I passed AP Calc with a C, if you can’t comprehend this, you need to read more on the topic.
Here’s the basics. Learn the language, MSDs, residual value (rv), money factor, selling price, incentives etc.
Here is what you need to read, in order, to understand the basics of leasing.
If you ever come across a word you don’t understand, search the faq section for the vocabulary post, it has a detailed summary for each term. If you get stuck, post your car, question, and info, someone will help you out.
You can get residual value, incentives, and base money factor from forum.edmunds.com you’ll need a free google linked account to do so. We get our info from their. Figure out what an appropriate discount is on your car via other posts, we’ve seen everything from a Camry to a Cullinan pass through here, so you’ll find it.
If you don’t want to do this, go to the marketplace section of the forum, left hand column, and search for your region and a broker to help you, most concentrate on either coast, TX, and Fl.
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This reminds me of a recent thread with a similar situation of “helping” someone with a weird “bad” lease deal & it was closed.
This right here, just walk away, maybe find a broker, it’s not worth the brain damage
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Alternative 1.
If you can afford to put 11k down. Do max multiple security deposits, Invest the rest instead and make the larger monthly payments on the car.
I see this as a situation where with savvy negotiation, you do 8k multiple security deposits, 600 a month payment and invest the remaining 3k.
You come out ahead over 352 a month with 11k down.
Alt 2:
Buy the car outright since you will recover some equity when you sell, whereas with leasing the 11k down is gone forever.
Part of me was wondering financing a gently used one might be a better option too.
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It’s definitely worth running the numbers. The Q5s notoriously lease very poorly.
If you get armed to the teeth with a warranty, it might be.
If you get the Certified Pre-Owned option on a newer model (CPO’d service loaner), then yes.
All of the benefits of the remainder of the 4 year/50,000 mile warranty and a 1 year/Unlimited mile warranty as well.
Your friend is a complete fool if she’s going to spent $650+ tax a month on a 54k Q5. There’s just no better way to put it. If she totals it a week after she gets it that 11k is gone. This is just a foolish way to lease a car.
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I think OP should push on their friend the loss of the downpayment should they get in an accident.
That should be enough of a deterrent?
Ran the numbers, 1.99% apr, first months payment covered up to $750. 432/month, no sales tax in Montana. 2017 Audi Q5 Premium Plus, similar trim and original MSRP, plus you build equity. 23k to rent the Audi and no equity. 28.5k to BUY a 2017 CPO, with unlimited mileage warranty until 2022, plus build equity. A 8 year old Audi, with 50k miles will be worth more than nothing. Currently, a 2013 Audi Q5 Premium+ with 60k miles is worth 13k retail, and roughly the same KBB. That’s grasping at straws, but still, my point stands.
Audi CPO loan term is 1.99% APR at 66 months, first month payment is paid by Audi. Requires good credit, but leasing does too, so go figure.
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I appreciate the effort you put there. Thank you.
I’m negotiating a 2020 Audi Q5 as well. Can someone let me know if this sounds like a good deal? I’ve negotiated with a few dealers and this is the best I’ve gotten it down to before they want to “bow out”.
36 month lease, 12K miles, includes Audi Care and Window Tint
MSRP: $50,910
Selling Price: $46,950
Rebate: $2,250
Total Savings + Rebate: $6,210
Due at signing: $1,000
Monthly: $599
Residual Value: $27,491
Seems expensive. Needs more information to actually evaluate (rv/mf/incentives from edmunds compared to what the dealer is offering, fee breakdown, taxes, etc)
Please start your own thread if you want to discuss it further
How much are you putting down? 11k?
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