Thank you. Im reaching out to dealers now in socal because the north west is ridiculous. Seattle,idaho, and Montana dealers are crooks. I almost always have to get it shipped.
Didn’t get it!!
@Luv2Drive - Ask your friend whether Audi Financial is really taking care of these 6 remaining payment on her A3. Here is some more helpful advice.
She was told that it would included.
I am confused. Is Audi paying off these payments or is the dealer rolling them into the new lease?
So what she was told is that 3 payments are covered, 3 are rolled in.
On top of what others have said, it is a bad idea rolling in remaining payments of an old lease into a new lease. $1026 (3 x $342) might not seem like a lot, but I would suggest waiting in three months to get the Q5. That’s my best advice.
I would also suggest doing some reading and understanding how a lease works, if you really want to help your friend. If you do a search on this forum, there is a “Leasing 101 FAQ”.
Good luck to you and your friend.
Thank you for the advice. I am waiting to see what numbers I get from socal. I’ll break it down for her, and she will make her decision.
She want a q5 this bad? Go to the marketplace and find a broker to talk some sense. Save some money, because 20k to rent a 50k car for 3 years is 
.
No one can help you if you don’t help yourself. Being new isn’t an excuse, everyone was new to leasing once.
A lot of people took a lot of time and effort to write out explanations of everything related to leasing here. There are no secrets.
You’re coming off as someone wanting to be spoonfed all the answers instead of putting in the effort yourself.
It’s up to you to change that perception. Otherwise this thread is and will be a huge waste of everyone’s time.
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Rich sorry spell check. multiple security deposits
You have 6 months on your current lease. Take your time and research to save thousands. You could get so many similar models for $6k+ less over the lease term. IMHO, just wait until the lease is over. Is there any reason you absolutely need a new car now?
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No real urgency. She just wants a new car.
Do your homework, I’m 17 and can get this stuff, and I passed AP Calc with a C, if you can’t comprehend this, you need to read more on the topic.
Here’s the basics. Learn the language, MSDs, residual value (rv), money factor, selling price, incentives etc.
Here is what you need to read, in order, to understand the basics of leasing.
If you ever come across a word you don’t understand, search the faq section for the vocabulary post, it has a detailed summary for each term. If you get stuck, post your car, question, and info, someone will help you out.
You can get residual value, incentives, and base money factor from forum.edmunds.com you’ll need a free google linked account to do so. We get our info from their. Figure out what an appropriate discount is on your car via other posts, we’ve seen everything from a Camry to a Cullinan pass through here, so you’ll find it.
If you don’t want to do this, go to the marketplace section of the forum, left hand column, and search for your region and a broker to help you, most concentrate on either coast, TX, and Fl.
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This reminds me of a recent thread with a similar situation of “helping” someone with a weird “bad” lease deal & it was closed.
This right here, just walk away, maybe find a broker, it’s not worth the brain damage
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Alternative 1.
If you can afford to put 11k down. Do max multiple security deposits, Invest the rest instead and make the larger monthly payments on the car.
I see this as a situation where with savvy negotiation, you do 8k multiple security deposits, 600 a month payment and invest the remaining 3k.
You come out ahead over 352 a month with 11k down.
Alt 2:
Buy the car outright since you will recover some equity when you sell, whereas with leasing the 11k down is gone forever.
Part of me was wondering financing a gently used one might be a better option too.
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It’s definitely worth running the numbers. The Q5s notoriously lease very poorly.
If you get armed to the teeth with a warranty, it might be.