I don’t think you need to drop to his level. Regardless of what, if anything, this manager agrees to later, they will be trying to get you somehow in the Finance office. Even if you come out unscathed, it will not be a pleasant experience. Might as well steer clear of him altogether.
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I just think it was funny honestly haha. They can call me a pesky porcupine if it makes them happy. I would just think some of these guys would knock the sales price down to 39k or 38k before resorting to calling me expletives. Maybe they just have no incentives in Ohio right now. The guy told me that the only other discounts were these $500 certificates but you could only use 2 per car.
I’m probably posting in the wrong thread but this is where I am seeing most of the experts.
I’m still looking for a Red Sport 400 AWD. The MSRP is about 56,000. Is it fair to say this car should have a selling price of ~48K? Dealers all have a tough time with this. I am trying to get my monthly payments to $450 max after tax for a car with 12 - 15K miles. I was even willing to put in a down payment of ~2-3K which I have learned is a bad move. Any idea on where I should start asking for which incentives? I am not making any headway! Maybe I should just look at 3.0T cars since the Red Sport 400 is too much “in demand?”
I know you are probably joking but keep this in mind: even when someone is essentially forced to agree to your terms in any negotiation, make yourself the path of least resistance or at least least humiliation. Allow them to save face. Don’t argue about who is wrong. Say, “If and when the incentives change…”
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Yeah just a joke, I understand we’re already frustrating them because we know about what kind of deals they can really do. I’m not that type of person, like you said it’s generally unwise and hurts the relationship so there isn’t much point to do so. I’m going to add “If and when the incentives change” to my persuasive phrases I like that one.
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@samurai I did a quick check for you and Airport Infiniti in Cleveland is running a special for 350/ mth with nothing down on a q50 3.0t SE. Reach out to them and see what is the best they can do without disclosing that you have a VPP code. Once everything is done tell them to use the code and reduce the cap cost by 1250. That should easily get you under your target price.
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MSRP on the red sport base is 51k and invoice is 48k I believe. So you should deduct all incentives off of the invoice price. You’ll probably want some options too so that will make the price go up a bit. Definitely don’t put a down payment on it no, the money factor or interest rate on these is already extremely low. If you get into an accident you’re out your whole down payment. I’m not sure about the red sport but on the Q50 3.0t premium everyone is saying 9k is the price off of invoice you should shoot for.
Thank you! I’m going to check out their website right now! Hey what do you tell them when they ask you where you work at? They always ask me that question to try and see if I have VPP. I don’t want to outright lie to them because I don’t think that creates a good negotiating environment. Edit: SE is the signature edition Q50 there’s an article here about the differences between premium and the SE http://blog.caranddriver.com/infiniti-q50-signature-edition-pairs-twin-turbo-v-6-power-with-sub-40k-price/
I totally get it if you don’t want to give incorrect info to the dealer about employment. They will ask about it as that is the SOP so either you don’t give them the correct info or don’t give it to them at all.
Alternatively you can say the car is for your wife and give her employer info.
Well I think I’ll just avoid the question yeah haha. The ad they have in Cleveland is for 0 down $350 a month but doesn’t include acquisition and other fees. The sales rep got back to me with the residual for the SE 10k is 53% 12k is 52% and MF is 0.00006. So plugging that into the calculator for 12k That makes the selling price $35,500 off of an MSRP of $42,250. The invoice for these cars are usually 3k below MSRP so if invoice is $39,250 and there’s 9k of incentives that would make the selling price $30,250 before my VPP code even. This just seems too good to be true, do you think they still have 9k cash for these SE models? Should I email the dealer back with this low of an offer?
The SE was specifically designed to be the value V6 model, so I don’t know if it would have the same trunk money as the more expensive trims.
SE is a newer budget trim and I am not sure it carries that kind of lease support as premium with premium plus. The MSRP on SE is almost 4k less compared to premium with plus so there is no way they will need to give that much cash on those.
The problem is, I have not seen these cars on dealer lots in NY market. Doing a quick search on edmunds and truecar now resulted in no SE models available.
You are not getting this car for close to 30K and it does sound too good to be true as you mentioned.
I would say start with 33K-33.5K as your asking price and see where you can get them to. After that just tell them that you have a VPP code and deduct 1250 from the cap cost and get your final cap cost after adding acquisition to it and calculate your payment.
HN.
Yeah that’s what I was thinking. I want the drivers assistance package and the nicer Bose speakers anyway. All their 3.0 premium cars just have that ugly maple wood accent. I think I’ll stick to my original plan and the keep the SE as a plan b. I don’t mind spending a few extra bucks a month for the features I want.
PMing you! There is someone else interested. Are you available this weekend?
PMing you! Are you available this weekend? A few people interested! Let’s all go together!
@HN308 @Jon well all the dealers I called (called 10 of them) said definitely no (for now) One dealer said maybe at the beginning of next month, but not holding my breath. This process has definitely taught me a lot though it can be a little discouraging. I want the car, but if I get all no’s at the end of the month I’m fine not getting a car at all. And I really don’t have the time to go to SoCal anytime soon. Tough crowd up here in NorCal. But at least I learned a lot, and am not desperate to get this car.
Yes thanks everyone here for the great info!! I have learned a lot.My lease won’t be up by May 2017. Until then, I will have to get every bit of hack and good info about leasing.
I contacted the salesperson worked with HN308, he said they are no longer doing $300 leases. Best he could do will be $390. I am not sure anyone else in east coast get anywhere close to this deal?
I agree with NJLeaser that my guy is not doing good deals anymore. I strongly suggest to not deal with him at these inflated numbers till he gets back close to last months number.
Looks like he got way too many referrals and believes he can sell those expensive leases to hackrs.
I will check with some other dealers whom I dealt with in Dec when I got my car and were close to his quote then to see what they are offering now.
Yes. He quoted $600 to $700 on a qx60($52500) 39 months lease. I simply laughed and deleted his email.
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