I’m sure you could. Hell, I’m sure I could, but that doesn’t mean it’s a smart decision.
How’s $5,200 in savings with no aftermarket sound? (So actually $6,200)
This is where we disagree, respectfully of course.
I like to get dealers involved early, get names of the decision makers onsite, and then work the deals with several of them on equally spec’d vehicles they have on their lots. The people who work at dealerships seems to be a revolving door, so I’m rarely talking to the same people I worked with on my last deal. When 7 of 10 or so dealers I’m talking with, stop talking to me, I know I’m reaching the floor on pricing. Then I use who’s left to make a decision and offer up the final deal to all of the people I’m talking for a last competitive bid, then sign the deal. It’s worked well for years, and I’ve always made a solid deal.
That said, the market today is completely different, so I’ve started research a little earlier than normal.
When you put it that way, it sounds like a full time job. 
It takes seconds to plug information in a spreadsheet and respond to an email. It’s not that much work and saves me a ton. When it feels like work is when I’m doing it for a friend or someone else in my extended family, haha!
In this market, I’m thinking it may be financially smarter to buy the car out cash, sell it to carmax, then Uber everywhere for the next couple years.
The problem is two fold with that.
You’re letting them establish the foundation for which all negoations are based (for example, IAC just said $5200 off. Not that I’m suggesting you do, but if you took that number to this dealer now, you’re be asking for them to come down $8000 off their price rather than you opening the salvo at only $5200 off msrp.) Even if the salesman changes, you’re now in their CRM system with this offer setting the floor.
You’re increasing the amount of time and effort they’re putting into getting to the finish line. More work needs more money to pay for it. You’re essentially eliminating your greatest value as a reduced profit customer, which is being the quickest, easiest deal they could possibly deal with.
2 Likes
I think you’re making this too complicated. Just send a few email offers and pick up the car within a week. If they’re interested, they’ll counter, if you’re too far off from where they’re willing to go, they’ll ignore you.
Make the offer, don’t let them set the start point.
3 Likes
But, when they ask if they can make an offer and I tell them not to waste “their” time and send me their normal BS deal, then that’s on them. When I tell them I’m a reduced profit customer, and they decide to waste their time with bloated MF and sales price, it really only impacts them. Because there are twenty dealerships I’d be willing to work with.
Maybe that sucks for them, but dealerships actively screw people over on the regular, so I don’t lose any sleep over it.
Keep in mind that BMWFS allows you to extend 30-60 days w/o an order for a new one. That’ll buy you more time, however I think your best option is to buy your current BMW and enjoy for it a few more years. Yes, it may be out of warranty at some point, it’s not going to spontaneously combust the day it is out of warranty.
2 Likes
They’re never going to go back and re-hash their numbers because you told them to come back treating you as a reduced profit customer.
Why anyone would ever waste time asking them to make an offer is beyond me. Work out what you’re willing to pay based on current market conditions, tell them what you’re willing to pay, and if they don’t want to play, move on. You want to control the conversation. Yah, you need to adjust your target pricing to be reasonable with current market conditions, but you don’t need to just let them run amuck.
1 Like
FYI, other than vehicles I’ve been flipping, I decided to purchase cars for our personal fleet during this awful time rather than lease. No way in hell I want to rent a car for what constitutes a deal right now.
Find out how much equity you can pull from your current car and start looking at other brands.
Perhaps, I’ve used this tactic as well, and it’s taken the same amount of time.
We tend to calculate these offers based on the perfect deal, and like you said, if it’s too low they’ll ignore you. So when all of them ignore you, what basis do you have to go back to them with higher numbers? Now you could be perceived as desperate, so you need to email different dealerships with higher numbers to make a deal. We’re playing the same game really.
I get one dealership worked down to low numbers from their original offer, then use that to leverage deals with other delearships. I get several talking to me about the same numbers and when they start to ignore I’ve hit the floor and make the deal. It’s simple and usually takes me no more than a few days. I’d say the majority of the deals I’ve made have been within 5 business days from when I’m serious.
I get what you’re saying, but they almost always rehash their numbers. I’ve never had someone tell me to pound sand…
I guess it helps to believe there is more than one good way to make something happen.
I’m seriously considering buying right now and will definitely be looking at other brands. I generally opposed to buying depreciating assets, but I need to see what type of rates are being offered right now.
I’ve never been tied to a brand, this last lease was my first BMW.
1 Like
I just tried to go with those that historically don’t depreciate much. Bought a WRX for myself and we have a Sprinter incoming for the wife. We did just also buy her a 2020 S90 T6. Certainly will depreciate harshly, but I think we got in at a good price, and she LOVES volvos, so as long as it doesn’t break the bank in repairs, she’ll keep it a long time.
1 Like
I am sure you are aware that the initial offer from a dealer is usually not their best. Was this offer from a dealer near you?
On my last lease last year, the GM at an Audi dealership got involved and the deal was finalized over a few emails and a phone call.
One thing you have on your hands is time. As others have said, deals on BMWs suck right now.
Good luck with your search.
Personally I would feel bad about driving the same car for twice as much regardless of the circumstances. If you are willing to cough up the dinero, at least get something you have always wanted.
1500/mo x3 m40
1 Like
