I have a salesman I have been dealing with on my current lease and gave me a great deal last time. I understand the current market but read alot and some dealers mention you get a better deal if you work with the internet dealer and send a template of what you want to local dealers to get prices. I agree I want to work with my current salesman. I know I want a GLA truck since the C class they stopped making and updating next spring. I can go on their website for inventory. I should ask them the MSRP selling price of the truck, residual money factor and rebates. What is DAS? I should bypass my salesman? Thanks
Thereâs no reason to ask them any of these questions, as you should already know the answer to what they should be before ever talking to a dealer.
We always recommend the following method before you ever contact a dealership. If you do all of the work up front, youâll have a stress free dealer experience and set yourself for success.
- Read Leasing 101 (EDITORIAL | LEASEHACKR) to understand how to calculate a lease payment and the variables. Monthly payment is an output, not an input!! While youâre at it, be sure to watch the LH video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjgvLxqcLfA) to brush up on how to must efficiently use the resources here.
- Pick a specific vehicle that you want to target
- Gather the current MF, RV and incentives from Edmunds forums for your zip code
- Research the LH marketplace and other deals that have been made recently on your vehicle - what was their pre-incentive discount? How did their lease terms differ?
- Plug your numbers into the LH calculator (CALCULATOR | LEASEHACKR), and use a pre-incentive discount similar to what you have seen
- Create a target deal, this is what youâre trying to negotiate to. You can try different terms, selling price discount, etc. and see how your monthly payment is affected. It is also possible that different trims of your vehicle may have different MF and RV (i.e. this is very common with GM), so make sure that you look into that. Come up with a set of inputs that give you the output that you want - your desired monthly payment.
With a target price determined, you now have a deal to pursue and compare dealer offers against. More importantly, you have a solid foundation to work from.
When reaching out to dealers, aside from the incentives I have(loyalty, penfed, graduate, etc), should I tell them that Iâm also qualified for the lease cash(this info is from Edmunds along with the MF RV)?
Everyone qualifies for lease cash, but it isnât going to harm anything to include it when you list the incentives you qualify for. Itâs likely to be rolled into the selling price instead of itemized.
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Thank you!
Dear CODY AT TOYOTA
Iâve made up my mind and Iâm ready to buy a car. I plan to buy from whichever dealership has provided me with the best price by the end of the day on [deadline].
Youâve quoted me a price of [currentquote] for a new [color] [year] [make] [model]. However, I received a better offer from another dealership. I was quoted [bestquote] for a comparably equipped car with an MSRP of [MSRPbestquote]. This price includes the destination fee and all other dealer fees except for tax, tag, and title.
If you are able to beat this offer and end up having the lowest price at the end of the day on [deadline], I would be interested in giving you my business. Could you please let me know the best total price you are able to offer?
Please provide as much information as possible on your available cars including the VIN#(s) so that I may make an informed decision.
Sincerely,
[yourname]
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Make sure you have verified they all stack or which stacks with which.
Glad someone else brought this thread back to life, because I just thought of some things Iâm not sure aboutâŚ
I have a nice offer from Carmax way above my end of lease buyout, but of course I canât sell directly to them. The dealership can buy it from me, so whatâs the best tactic to bring up that quote when seeing if theyâll buy it? Do I work that equity amount into the offer I want to make, or try to get all the other numbers worked out first?
Looks like a template.
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PASS! lol @Cody_Carter
Thatâs the joke. Itâs the type of template that goes to the trash.
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Double Pass
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When Im starting negotiation I always send email to dealers with stock number and question if they can do 13% off of MSRP before factory incentives ( in this case lexus NX300 I got April this year).
Most of dealers say no problem, but when they send you work sheet with numbers there is a lot of hidden fees ( tinted windows for 800$, nitrogen in tires, inflated MF and all kind overpriced things). Now once I have numbers I slowly go trough it with sales guy, and eliminate everything what makes that 13% discount lower. By the end of process many dealers will give up, but there is always this one who stay with you till the end.
I got 2021 NX300 46k MSRP for 369$ month plus tax. 12/36 lease with protection plan included. About 4 days of emailing back and forth
By sending a message like this, where you focus on one variable and leave others ambiguous, you end up wasting a lot of time because youâre not necessarily speaking the same language from the get go.
You say 13% off pre-incentive, and assume that means buy rate mf, no mark ups, etc. They assume that means marked up mf, with add ons, etc. You go back in forth with many dealers, hoping one stays with you until the end. You waste hours of your time, hours of their time, fail to be a quick easy sell, and in the end, maybe one gets there.
Instead, just stop beating around the bush, state what you want, and make the transaction quick, painless, and easy. Youâll generally find that you get things done way faster, get a better deal, and are far less frustrated in the end. After all, the more calories you make the dealer burn, the more money they need to make to pay for those calories.
So do you calculate the monthly payment you want and ask for that? Seems like that would result in FOLPâŚ
Either give monthly/das or give everything.
In cases where folp rears its head, giving everything is usually needed. Thatâs usually niche cases though.
Interesting. Iâll have to give this a try. I hate wasting time going back and forth.
It basically comes down to making sure youâre making a reasonable offer. Some dealers will definitely say no, but thereâs no point in going back and forth just to get to a no. Make life easier for the dealer. If youâre asking them to minimize their profits, be sure to minimize their work.
If I would ask in first email for 13% off, and no mark ups buying process would end up very quickly. Sales people are very reasonable guys. If your arguments hold the ground, they will work with you.
Before covid era you could do quick and easy deals, but not right now. I am not very convinced your negotiating strategy would work
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