This is what I did recently and it worked well. You usually get an internet sales manager. Sometimes you get a salesperson. But many times the sales manager will send you a separate email.
If a dealer can’t figure out how to get pricing to a customer who is asking for pricing, what do you think the odds are that they are going to offer a LH worthy deal?
Also, if you don’t want to talk on the phone, don’t give them your phone number.
In regards to starting the process of contacting dealers are there any email templates out there that people like me to use and maybe change it up when need be, thank you in advance for any help.
You’re making it too complicated.
Tell them what stock number you’re making an offer on, what your offer is, and when you can be there to take delivery. Be polite
So the first person to answer says that, " I am making it too complicated " oh yea, thanks buddy
WhAt’S pOliTe?
I think the email I sent to the dealer I picked my car up was 3 sentences. Just make sure you use proper grammar.
"
I am interested in X. I can come sign if you an do $Y discount with base MF (MF) before incentives, also qualify for Z incentives (z amount), would want these applied on top. Interested in a 36/12 lease. "
Now this makes sense, thank you!
Yes definitely don’t send anything long-winded. Just get to the point so I can either make a sale, a counter-offer, or close you out.
Hi folks, first time lessee here and appreciate some advice.
I’m talking to a dealer about a lightly used GLB 35 (3k miles) that has exactly the options I was looking for. Original MSRP was $67645, sale price is quoted at $63995 on their website. I mailed and asked for a lease quote assuming 36/10 with 5 MSDs (I live in San Francisco). The dealer quoted me $799 + tax via email. I tried setting up the deal in the Leasehackr calculator and got to $722 monthly pre-tax.
I’m wondering what my next steps should be? Should I ask the dealer for particular information? A formal quote? I think I want to first understand how he got to the $799 figure and then see if I can negotiate it down?
Thanks for any advice!
We always recommend the following method before you ever contact a dealership. If you do all of the work up front, you’ll have a stress free dealer experience and set yourself for success.
With a target price determined, you now have a deal to pursue and compare dealer offers against. More importantly, you have a solid foundation to work from.
With a target established, just make them an offer. No need to ask the dealer how much they want you to pay first.
Happy Friday!
So I need to get this new lease by next week. Forgive me for my ignorance and perhaps a basic question but what is the best way to try and get a great deal.
I was going to select my car of choice, put only inceptions down, then email the internet managers.
Is this what you’d do or what advise would you give me to successfully get a good deal.
Read through this entire thread and follow the steps that were listed in the post directly above yours.
What do you plan on emailing to internet managers?
Perfect strategy, but newbies just need to be aware you can do all this just right and be met by “so what exactly are you trying to accomplish today” or “what monthly payment are you looking for?”
We just need to accept some dealers aren’t looking to make a low profit sale, aren’t willing to drop the games, and/or to scripted in their approach to be able to handle a specific request.
Yup, that’s when you thank them for their time and move on. If they can’t handle basic reading comprehension, there’s no point in going back and forth. They’ve shown they’re not interested, so move on to someone that is.
The target deal that is created should be a monthly payment and DAS, IMO. I don’t think that there’s any reason to get into the weeds. Sales people don’t understand or care about MF, RV, etc. You should know exactly what inputs are needed to get to your output.
This is what I sent to each dealer when I was working on my Civic deal, after making pleasantries and establishing some rapport;
I am not going to shop yours or anybody else’s quote, I will make a deposit on your vehicle immediately and come in to sign this week if we can make a deal happen.
2020 Civic Sport CVT Aegean Blue, Stock# E0F030282 (or similiar)
Term: 36/12k miles
Zip: 48114 (6% tax)
I qualify for $1k loyalty incentive
I need new plates which are $70 (birthday 7/6)
I will sign for $200/mo with first payment due at signing, including all taxes/fees (if plate fee is more than $70 I will cover it). If you can do this deal, I’ll call you to place a deposit and can pick up this week. Hopefully we can do business together and get this done. If not, I appreciate your time and effort!
I came up with $200/mo based on the most aggressive lower trim Civic selling price discounts that I’ve seen, the RV/MF, the available incentives and my own taxes, fees etc. Actually I came up with 204/mo, but 200 was a nice round number lol.
19/20 dealers said no…this is ridiculous, how did you calculate that, your numbers are off, lowest we can do 259, we can do 200 with 2000 DAS, even I can’t get that deal, bla bla bla. I thanked them for their time and moved on. It only took 1 dealer to agree to it.
IMO - keep it as simple as possible and don’t over complicate it. Once you start going back and forth about MF, selling price, etc you’re playing the game and you’re unlikely to meet your goal. If they want to mark up the MF or add accessories/BS and are able to do the same monthly by applying an equivalent vehicle selling price discount, who cares?? Let them adjust the variables however they want on their end to get you to the output (monthly payment) that you need.
This right here. Cannot be said enough. 
Arguing about whether they are willing to do 5% or 6% or whether the MF is marked up by .0001 or not will in most cases get you nowhere with the sales rep who doesn’t have a clue what this stuff is anyways. A simple “If you can do $XXX/mo with $YYY DAS I will be in to sign today” will go far.
Like Chris mentioned, don’t forget to mention the eligibility-based rebates you qualify for, if any, such as loyalty, grad, etc.
Otherwise they’ll have to assume it comes out of their pocket
I agree with this for a salesperson, but for GSM/GM I will always include discount, incentives, RV, and MF. Several dealers have thanked me for making everything as straightforward as possible.
I’ve always been a bigger fan of breaking the deal down rather than dealing with monthly/das, especially when dealing with a car where FOLP is at play. On my most recent lease, I deliberately tried to deal with only monthly/Das. That lasted about 2 minutes before I ended up having to break the deal down anyway to show how I got to the numbers and gave up on doing things based on the monthly/Das.
I certainly don’t think it’s best for everyone to worry about breaking everything down, but it seems to be what works best for me.
When helping my relative with an A6, off the first email the GM and I agreed on base MF and only needed to negotiate pre-incentive discount. Really easy.