Hello,My current lease ends June 1, 2027…Any recommendations when to start looing for new lease and what brokers cover Florida?
May 2027, unless your vehicle is eligible for pull-ahead, then potentially earlier depending on how good of a deal you currently have. Another option is extending your lease (again, depends on the brand).
That said, some deals may justify snatching a good deal early, even if it means hanging on to a new car and an outgoing lease in parallel for a brief period of time.
My lease ends in February, although I am casually looking to get a sense of what is out there, I won’t seriously start looking until December to see if I can snag a great year end deal. I have a Lyriq lease so technically with Cadillac, I can start looking in November as they offer 4 months of pull ahead if I remember correctly.
It’s kind of confusing looking at the broker deals. Seems like California has best deals. I live in FL. so should I just look at FL deals. Also..when do you py the broker, after the car is delivered or before? Thanks for helping me out.
Many CA deals are restricted in-state only. For others, you have to add the (ever increasing) shipping costs into your calculus to see if it makes $$ and transportation hassle sense.
Every broker has their own rules which are usually spelled out in the first post. I’d say, pre-payment is the norm.
If you haven’t already signed up for all the things you can that might make you eligible for discounts on brands you’d consider: Penfed, Sam’s Club, AAA, Costco, Car Clubs (Mustang Owners, VCOA, etc) and affiliates (ASPCA for Subaru at the cheap tier 6+ months out, Tread Lightly for Jeep). Tweak any banking relationships that offer Corporate/Fleet. Professional associations.
90 days out I would skim the marketplace here to see what is leasing well, what lines up to your discounts/incentives - you can ultimately lease from anywhere and pickup/ship, but transport is 2x+ more expensive in the past six months, keep an eye on that. But I’d see what’s leasing well and start test driving/renting cars.
60 days out, with a short list of 1-2 cars and a well researched target deal, start spear fishing dealers with cars that match with “yes or no, ready to sign” offers. If you get close to month end and aren’t having luck yourself and no month-end deals that pop, find a broker.
If you’re still searching 2+ months keep in mind you have to pull all the new lease programs after the first of every month and update your numbers. I usually start a spreadsheet during the process to consolidate all the math (so if the program changes next month I update a cell and it recalcs) and I track VINs/dealers/outreach.
The only deals native to FL seem to land heavily in favor of the dealer, never the customer. Not to say hackrs don’t get good deals there but it’s rare and requires both an understanding and willingness of what’s possible out-of-market.
It’s irrelevant to you what’s happening in CA.
If the savings exceed the cost of shipping you can look at GA and Carolina deals, maybe up to the mid Atlantic.
Start looking months before. If you’re using a broker and unless you want to be out of a vehicle, you may lease something new while still having a few months left on your current lease. That’s what I plan on doing.
It is so depends on your personal needs and budget honestly, with the time you will realize that there is not a “good” time to look for a lease, it all depends.
If you are happy with your current lease you could extend it.
If you are not happy, a pull ahead program could be a really good option.
If you don’t really care about it, but wants to change the car, start looking 2 or 3 month in advance, look the “Signed Deals & Tips” what people is signing to know which cars are having the best RV, MF and incentives, become a Super Supporter or check Edmunds Forums to track these in each individual car you may be interested in, remember that every month is different.
I’m also a FL resident and I know how hard is to find a good lease, but you can easily lease from dealer from other states, I’m currently in negotiations with a dealer from Ohio, remember to take in mind shipping cost too!
Good advice, thanks. May I ask what thet are going to charge you for shipping to FL
I think this thread might help you. Be mindful of shipping cost nowadays probably varies widely…
With diesel prices where they are, I can’t imagine that the deals in CA are better than the 2k+ you are going to end up spending on shipping. Typically dealers in ATL will play ball. Might want to think about flying up and driving back down.
You should always be looking
Depends on the make. We’ve been running substantial discounts in Florida for the last few months on BMWs.
My Lyriq lease ends in November and I’ve been getting eMail, Snail Mail and calls with pull ahead offers for months but none of them have been all that great… Of course, I got a great lease deal on a demo a couple of years back ($400/mo for 2 years with nothing down, 10Kmiles/year).
Complicating this is that we also have a Mustang Mach E with Ford Options ending in December. The Mach E will most likely be replaced with a Rivian R2.
The Lyriq has been great but for a large car the cargo space is not that good so we’re looking at other options including hybrid/gas for a short term lease.
Hi, just a FYI. I had an order for a R2. After taking test drive I cancelled my reservation. Reasons I cancelled
Range --Rivian advertised 335 range from the get go, Many people are furious because the highway range is 250 ish.
Glass roof-- I live in FL, when I went to take my test drive, from inside of the R2 the roof glass was at least 150 degrees, and the dark seats were to hot to sit on. I am talking burning hot. They say a fix for this is to get a aftermarket clip on sunshade. How tacky is that..Buy a $60 k R2 and have to get a aftermarket clip on sunshade. Their second option, get ceramic tint ($1k). I you get the tint your warranty for the roof glass in negated because of the after sale tint. If you don’t get the tint or sunshade, your range will definitely suffer Even if you get the tint (I researched this heavily) you put the tint on the inside, so the tint blocks the heat, but the blocked heat now builds up between the glass and the tint. So now you are suceptible to thermal shock..the roof cracks, no warranty, $2K to replace glass.
Charger Door.. This is very small and oddly shaped and worse than flimsly. I can see this bending easily or getting tore off by a carwash..once again, not covered in warranty $$$
Pricing… They only offer a $829 lease with $5k down, this brings the effective monthly payment to be $988. excludes local taxes, title, and registration.That amount is way to high for a $60K vehicle. For that payment amount you are into Luxury suv’s territory. That money factor is Equivalent to roughly .00369 or ~8.86% APR. That is absurd.
No grab handles throughout and no tie down hooks in rear. The rear compartment and all lower doors is made from very cheap plastic that very easily scuffs. So not being able to tie down you stuff in the back means it will fly around and easiy damage the very cheap plastic. When you turn in your lease, the damage will have to be paid for. The grab handle issue is a no brainer for getting in and out of the 10" ground clearance. I have watched videos of folks bracing themselves between the door and center console while traversing hills or different terrains. That console is not as sturdy as one may think and if it breaks, not covered by warranty. Lastly, the in house stereo is sub par for a $60k vehicle. Those are my honest real world review. I was very happy and looking forward to getting my R2, until I took the test drive.
Solid and honest assessment. Thanks for the info.
Noted… The R2 would be our 4th EV (2 x Mach-E and the Lyriq).
We’re in upstate NY so the glass roof on the Mach-E hasn’t been an issue for us for the most part.
Not surprising the highway range since it’s essentially a box.
After 3 EVs, I’ve come to understand that it’s really the software and honestly… Both Cadillac and Ford suck at it. Tesla and Rivian (parents have a MY and friends have a R1T) have the best software.
The IX3 doesn’t seem too great either…
