Completely unrelated deal - my deal just shows you more so a different trim level, different region with WAY different taxes, possibly different incentives, and I chose a much less mileage allowance while dealer paid first month (sign and drive) and I added on the a spec heated wheel accessory.
I’m not sure of the market in FL, but the FWD seem to be scarce here where I live so almost all are SH-AWD, but I do believe it’s a $2-3000 option but also raises the RV, iirc.
I hope it works out for you but you can’t simply take my deal, lower the selling price, and take the difference out of the monthly payments to achieve what you’re wanting to get. Way too many factors.
Also - it does seem like your employee discount (which is extremely good) + conquest (which was $2500 when I signed) are your only discounts, which is killing you.
Another approach you could go, again may vary from dealer to dealer, you could go for the base gray a spec color, which is NOT a $500 option like the Apex Blue I wanted, saves you money there. Also, it may be easier to deal on a car already on the lot at the dealer than it is to deal with having the dealer trade for the car, which is what I did.
Leasehackr 101 is your friend. Also the broker sections is your friend as well, look at your region, the car you want, and see where a broker is priced.
Okay I’m back. I apologize for unreasonable responses and lack of info. Let me explain everything. I just recently was able to figure out my work discounts and found auto ones. I went through TrueCar leasing benefits deals. It showed me a TXL FWD A-Spec with Modern Steel and Red interior. Priced right around 40,690 then only fee it showed was 799 doc fee. I really didn’t have much talk with him besides tell him color. He then told me sales price and then sent me a copy of deal. That’s what I asked him for his residual he priced car at and MF. What you see above is what I am just writing in from what I got from dealer. And wanted to post on here to see what he did, what more do I need to learn, what’s missing… ask around. As stated by @mllcb42@chrishs2000@StingerTT I need to learn more and you are all right. So that’s all I simply did was post this and wanted to see breakdown of it. My target deal was composed of me looking at Edmunds forum. Selling average selling price of car and what I have seen on here. Now could it be wrong. Possibly, 100. Maybe I’m doing my calculations wrong and that’s why I’m all down for the help, I’m just trying to learn at end of day and greatly appreciate all the help!
Well I don’t appreciate you laughing about what was said when several of us are going out of our way in the middle of our day trying to help you FOR FREE.
I’m trying to give you some advice that nobody even mentioned and you want to laugh? You’re on your own buddy, do the leg work yourself. I’m shocked you’re an employee at a dealership and still have no clue what’s going on.
Wait I don’t know what you mean? I didn’t laugh in middle of conversation to make it seem as disrespectful. I was laughing thinking you joking with me at I was just taking your numbers and just throwing them in on car… and I work for retail store man. Not cars. This is my first ever car negotiation. I apologize if I meant any offense in that way!
I appreciate good luck!
I have a question, so based off the blogs. And some of your posts on some other TLX threads. You need to work out car discounts off MSRP. Pre-incentive like you were saying. So like conquest is incentive. That gets added after the discounts.
My question to you is, to find what’s average discounts. Do I use KBB and TrueCar, and these other websites to find selling price, then use my incentives to get cap cost? Or did I confuse myself?
I think you may find 11% pre-incentive tough. With that said, you’re missing the conquest incentive here, so that may make up for that discount target if you’ve overshot.
Truecar often has incentives and such already included, etc. That’s why I said to follow step 4 above, not go to some other website with questionable data.
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