We are trying to get a small SUV and and dealers are insisting we go to dealer to get a simple quote.
I will call and ask if they can email me a quote but before that I wanted see what kind of discount I can get, and if I can have an idea what kind of payments they will require at signing?
So far I am expecting Acquisition Fee ($650?), 1st month’s payment, Taxes (I think this is on the monthly payment, right?) and any dealer doc fees.
For discount, I think Nissan has about 10% on Rogue and 7 to 8% off MSRP on RAV 4?
I am trying to lease 10k/36mo and try to stay under $300 with as little DAS as possible. Is this realistic?
If it were me i would pass on the Rouge that CVT is like riding on the back of a snail. The Rav 4 is a better finance candidate than leasing it.
In my recent experience NYC dealers are a waste of time honestly. Start reaching out to dealers in tri state area they are more willing to provide information and actually give you a better deal.
Any dealer refusing to send you numbers on a Rogue is doing you a favor.
Also, one should never talk numbers with a dealer until after you know what the vehicle should lease for. Talking numbers with dealers is for finding someone to do your deal, not for figuring out what something should cost. To do otherwise is setting yourself up for failure.
Never knew Rogue was that bad, we couldn’t test drive one but I thought it reviewed well apart from being underpowered. This is the first car for a new driver, so I didnt mind being underpowered.
We can go back to considering Rav4 as primary target of it’s better, otherwise we are not really fixated on any brand or model, as long as it has major safety features standard (emergency auto braking, lane keep assist) that can help new driver and leases reasonably priced. ($300/mo with as little DAS as possible). Are there any other vehicles we should consider? Preferably crossover/small SUV?
I don’t like the cvt. That’s all I have to say. To be genuinely honest, for a new driver, you check the insurance yet for a new car?
Mllcb42, what so you mean we shouldn’t talk numbers. I have an idea what the vehicle leases for, but I want to know how much they want at signing. For example Rav4 has $209/mo with $3000. But toyota doesn’t reveal the adjusted cap cost, so I can’t compare apple’s to apple’s. My estimate is that its about 4% off msrp? So getting 7.5% off should result in less than 209/mo before building other costs into lease.
Oh no… I think others are going to chime in with lengthier responses but:
Not true - they do.
You’ll need to read up on all the Leasing 101 articles in order to arm yourself properly. All of these are factors and critical to knowing your leases : MSRP, selling price, RV, MF, incentives… all the inputs into the calculator are obtainable and necessary.
You’ll find the common advice here is to move on if a dealer will not be transparent. Folks on LH get good numbers on Toyota too… and they’re way better than what you’re seeing now. Good luck!
Hi Kctham18, I dont see the selling price for $209/mo deal that I see when I enter my zipcode (11214). Seems like unknown dealer participation. I have the RV, MSRP and MF for 10k/36mo and I actually built a little excel that enters everything for me.
I leased with great deals in the past from BMW and Audi, now I am helping my brother get his first car. I always got about 10 to 12% on 70k vehicles so I was very lucky, this year I am not sure what I am going to do, that will be a new thread…
I would love to get some suggestions so we can get him a ride and his family can finally gain some independence. He wanted to get Jeep (Renegade or Compass) but they dont seem to lease well and most features are optional.
Have you tried looking in the Marketplace for some options and numbers? There are quite a few brokers that work the tri-state area (and more), and you can still find pretty good deals if you’re willing to travel.
The Compass has a lot of promotions on it, I just hated it when I test drove it. Look in the marketplace, there are ads for it. I am looking for exactly the same thing and I have never had such a rough time getting an inexpensive ride. My last two cars were Accords that I leased for an average of $169 each. Basic cars that worked. He may do better with a sedan, does he need AWD? I do because will be upstate this winter living on a hill with the car but otherwise I would have gotten a FWD. Still prices have been crazy because there is no inventory and everyone has suddenly decided they need a car, mostly in this price range and cheaper. Try a TLX if you can find one, base has been going for well under $300, I was offered that at the end of last month but I want AWD
I really liked the Rogue when I test drove it. They are changing it for 2021 so in theory a month from now you should be able to get great deals on the leftovers but everything has been weird. I got some decent prices using True Car but the dealers really are not all that interested in my buying that way. I am looking at the CRVs too, as well as the Tucsons and Santa Fes which seem to be leasing ok in the base level. Huntington Honda has some ads for a base HRV (small) and CRV EX. There do not seem to be great promotions on the RAV4, I think mostly because there is no stock available in this area. As one broker explained it, the dealers make money from the incentives they get from Toyota or whomever to sell a certain number of cars, high volume, if they do not have enough cars they cannot do volume and cannot sell the cars as cheaply as they did
You don’t have an idea of what it leases for if you’re unsure about the due at signing amount.
With adequate research, you should be able to populate the LH calculator for the deal you want to target and know within a couple hundred dollars (depending on how accurate you get with the fees) what the total lease cost is, what that means per month and upfront, etc.
Right now it sounds like you’re just looking at advertised specials. Those are rarely good deals.
@nyx34 I recently began searching for a lease for the first time myself. I’m in MA not NY, but here’s what worked for me. Don’t call them and ask for a quote. Google the dealership you’re looking for and go to their website. Every single one that I’ve visited has a little chat function in the lower right corner. Go into it and speak with a rep. My experience is that 95% of the time these are outsourced callcenter/chatcenter type deals. Give them the stock number you’re interested in, give them your email. Tell them you want to be contacted via email.
The agent will send the lead to the dealership and generally within 2-5 minutes you’ll receive an auto generated email from the dealership. Don’t respond to this email(unless you’re confident that this first email is actually a real person). Within an hour(assuming it’s during business hours) an actual person will reach out and introduce themselves. This is when you begin asking about selling price or presenting what you’re looking for to the dealer.
I’m sure everyone has different methods. This has worked very well for me. I haven’t had a single dealership ignore me. And the moment they add the line, when will you be coming in blah blah blah I hit them with “I’m very busy with work and don’t plan to come in until it’s time to sign paperwork.”
I have the RV, MF and others and I am working with target %7-10% off MSRP. I was able to get an idea about what dealer fees there are by looking at the offers on Edmunds. I will definitely check out market place. I know the only variable is the % off discount and dealer fees. According to most sites Toyota has $650 acquisition fee that’s standard. Rest is DMV fees that vary slightly from dealer to dealer, and lastly Taxes. I don’t see much else, (NJ dealers seem to have high document fee of $500).
My plan was to get $209 deal hoping I can get an additional discount as close to $3000 as possible to reduce my DAS to just taxes and then build the acquisition into lease making it about 230/month.
Saphire, I was also hoping to get a good deal on outgoing Rogue model. I’ll also check out CRV. Thanks for the suggestions. Why did you hate Compass?
@Lojinxx, I will try that approach as well.
I always thought just get as much off MSRP as possible, and rest is history since dealers will have same/similar numbers at signing, and anything odd would stand out no doubt. This is why I was trying to get selling numbers but they insist on “X down, your payment is X per month, with tax, title, dealer fees, bank fees due at signing” obviously I wouldn’t go there unless I knew what those are, but I’ve been trying to the selling price/offer on the car so I can tell if they were giving me actual MF and not a marked up one.
The Compass drove well but if you notice the back window is tiny and the headrests block most of it. I kept wanting to adjust the mirror because my view felt blocked. I think I test drove the limited but could have been the latitude. There was a broker on here that had nice numbers, I think $249 for the Limited last month and less for the Latitude. Neither had blind spot monitors standard. When I went to the dealer they did not have a single Compass with BS out of 30 cars or something. I have in the last month test driven an Equinox, Rogue S, CX5 Touring and CX30 and did not feel that way. The Grand Cherokee is advertising at $299 may go in and test drive.
Wondering if you (or others) have tried this instead
Get the MF from Edmunds, put all the numbers in the calculator
Then do an offer as follows:
Dear Internet Manager:
Looking for Rogue SV AWD
36/12 (Nissan is 12)
Down Payment 0
Due at Signing DMV, $75 Documentation, Taxes and $650 Bank Fee (no other fees due or owed including no aquisition or cap cost reduction) and first payment. Note Nissan ads have been adding an extra aquisition fee so I am concerned.
Selling price of car pre incentive: (I took the lowest true car price I got)
Nissan Lease incentive $3675
Final Selling price :
Residual 53% (I think double check)
Money Factor .00103
(I think that is what it is, honestly on the SV it is a little high at 2.74, S and SL much lower).
Anyone tried this? Is this how dealer emails should go? Any refinements would be welcome
On another internet site it recommended adding a line saying you will give them a 10 on customer satisfaction after the deal is done (at whatever dealer you agree to buy at) not sure how ethical this is or whether they care
I know that not everyone will care, but a complete redesign Rogue is coming in Fall 2020. If that’s not important to you, at least use it to negotiate a larger discount on outgoing model.
I see they didn’t bother to fix the worst part:
“That means a 2.5-liter inline-four with around 180 horsepower should be standard, paired with a CVT and either front- or all-wheel drive.”
That’s what we’ve been trying to do and I don’t really get why we are not seeing more aggressive sales maybe there isn’t inventory? But I see each dealer has many base models on their inventory. $3k discount on 27k vehicle doesn’t scream a big deal to me.