No, 14% off is all dealer discount. The other incentives are on top of that.
For my market, NC with 3% monthly tax, I can hit $400 on a 2018 Inscription at 14% off with existing incentive levels (+4 MSDs). Add in an additional $1500 in incentives (which may or may not appear) and I can hit that target at 12% dealer discount. But that only happens at 24 months. 36 months is ~$35 more expensive. The last dealer I was working with on the Inscription was at 11% (but think he may not have accounted for change in A plan).
3%? Lucky 
Not as lucky as it seems. We get hit with annual personal property tax on vehicles (which is tax deductible if you itemize, but in 2018 subject to the new $10K SALT limit) plus dealers here know about the low tax rate, so their discounts are often paltry compared to other states.
Do you have to pay the property tax for leases?
both are 2017 models?
$13K for 2017 AWD Momentum. $4500 HSE, $3000 A-Plan, and $5500 lease bonus. The incentives vary by year and trim.
The two most recent price listings I posted were for 2017s. The T6 AWD MOM one was real. The T5 FWD MOM was made up, but shouldnât be too difficult to find.
As @cheapdad00 noted if youâre looking at 2018 it probably makes sense to look at the Inscription at 24 months.
Yes, they still collect on leased vehicles. Also, now they have streamlined it so you pay your tax and annual registration as a single bill. In other words, you cannot renew registration until the tax has been paid.
Ouch! Doesnât make sense to me to pay a property tax on someone elseâs property!
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Since I am new to leasing (not car buying) Iâm trying to get to the most efficient and effective negotiation strategy. For 2018 models are you all simply telling the dealer that you know about the HSE deals and lease bonus and demanding that as the starting point? I hate wasting time at the dealership and it seems that in Maryland the dealers are saying you can either get the HSE or the Lease bonus not both?
You get both.
Most people advise to work dealer discount as percentage off MSRP before incentives.
Dealers like to pretend that the incentives are part of their âdiscountâ.
The general consensus on this forum is that you should negotiate on the price of the car before incentives. They donât want you to do this because they canât hide the incentives as effectively. They may ask you if youâre leasing or financing, or if you have A-plan or Volvo loyalty; donât tell them. Theyâre just trying to figure out the incentives and confuse you.
Only once you hit your desired price do you need to get them to do a full quote and make sure you all agree about incentives, fees, and so on. With the MSRP, your selling price, MF, and RV, you should be able to calculate your lease payments without their help.
You should negotiate before you go to the dealership. Some are going to be more cash strapped than others, and theyâll make you better deals. I also hate negotiating at the dealership, but doing so over email is kind of fun. It really lets you see all the tricks and tactics they use without the same pressure.
I posted here for advice on negotiating. Not a lot of responses yet, but you can at least see what I am doing. Just remember that the majority of the dealers are not going to give you a good deal. That just means you need to talk to more dealers. Also, others on this thread have suggested waiting until the last week of the month when sales managers are more likely to make some aggressive deals.
Plus, donât negotiate at the dealership. Thatâs what the dealerâs internet manager is for.
Glorified floor salesperson.
I agree but it is not always easy to even start a negotiation if you donât divulge such information, at least from my experience. For me, it is either they are willing to do or not. so I just give them my desired price (or a bit 1-2% less) counting all the incentives and rebates.
Things have changed a lot in the past 4-5 years re email negotiations. They know about âusâ
Agreed, more to the point of find someone to negotiate with via email in the first wave of price getting.
So I asked my original dealer (the one who was going to âsoftware upgradeâ Android Auto in) for a quote on one of their 2018 S90s, thinking that they might want to keep my business. $0 dealer discount. I guess notâŚ
What trim level are you looking at? The T8âs incentives are a bit different then the T6 and T5.
If you havenât yet Iâd highly recommend finding out if you can take advantage of the A-plan program.
I am looking at the 2018 or 2017 T6 AWD Inscription. How do you find out if you are eligible for the A plan? Is it as simple as emailing Volvo from your work address to see if you company is eligible? If my employer isnât eligible is there any other way to qualify for the A-Plan (other than being having a relative work for Volvo?)
Are most of the great deals that people are getting on the s90 on the Momentum?