This Is What I Got For A Lease Offer. Any Tips? (2017 Chevy Malibu)

Shoot for a 1LT model, they have another $1540 in lease incentives. Here’s the sample lease I drew up (one pay, with that massive doc fee)

MSRP: 25125
Sales Price: 22500
10% off MSRP
Taxed Incentives: 5290
Down Payment: 0
Acquisition Fee: $595 (waive for raise in MF)
Miles/yr: 10k
Residual: 65%
Months: 24
Money Factor: .00092
GM One-pay Lease: I want to lower the MF by 0.00042 (its a 0.00042 reduction on a 24 month) by paying everything upfront.
GM Acquisition Waiver: waive the acquisition fee by raising the MF by 0.00055.
Adjusted Money Factor: 0.00104
Document Fee: 998
License/Registration Fee: 260 (not exactly sure on this one)
Sales Tax: 8%
Drive Off: $3,614
Total one-pay lease payment: $1,853
Registration and doc fee: $1,258
Tax on cap cost reduction and fees: $503
Leasehackr Score: 29.3 years
Disposition Fee: $395
Total Lease Cost: $3,749

I have a dealership refusing to send over the Lease Breakdown. What should I do?

Then move on to another dealer, there is plenty of fish in the sea.

What should my target payment be for a one time lease?

I Don’t know what to ask the dealer in terms of negotiation. This is my first time leasing a car and I want to get the price down as low as possible but I don’t know how to do it.

The dealers have figured this out. Lease the car for free but charge thousands in fees :wink:

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Have @willwar14 and/or @senwia negotiate the deals for you and pay them $199 fee lol

Two tips.

If the doc fee is $1000, never talk with that dealer again. Seriously. Do yourself a favor and ask what their doc fee is before you even say you want to lease a car. Will save a bunch of time.

If the dealer won’t show you the lease breakdown, they just saved you the time of reading a marked up lease breakdown.

Finding a smoking lease is like catching a big fish. You will have to put time and effort into it to make it happen.

You need all the numbers to competitive.

If you can figure out who the high volume sellers are near you, that is who to contact. You can make the same profit with high volume and low prices, as you can with low volume and high prices. Contact only the big guys.

OK, maybe it was three tips.

If they are down, i’m down haha. I suck at negotiating

Look at this deal. It’s not a Malibu but it’s still a Chevy with a comparable MSRP

To get the best deal, you need a decent discount (10-12% from MSRP) before rebates, and then stack ALL applicable rebates:

Conquest and basic (AKA Incremental) CCR are probably being given to you.
You need to look for Regional CCR and Bonus Tag (AKA Select Model CCR)

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@vhooloo a percentage of total savings would be better lol JK don’t ask me please I already have two careers.

Besides I’m not good at negotiating anyway.

I’d suggest you leave a request with Michael in the rv/mf section confirming the available incentives in your zip code, locate a specific car you want (preferably with a bonus tag), go with the LT instead of the base due to the increased rebate, then post here for a suggested offer. I’m sure wilwar14 or someone else here will be glad to work you up an offer (similar to the one above). You can copy and paste into an email and send it to the dealer sales person as an offer to lease. I wouldn’t get too caught up in the dealer fee - it is simply an adjustment to sales price - just reduce your offer by any dealer fee over $300. You are in great position to score an outstanding deal this month! Good luck!

Where Can I Go To See All The Rebates That Are Available In My Area? Also, What should I try to get the selling price of the car to before rebates to get that price?

A 0.00050 MF on a one pay lease translates to a standard 0.00123 MF (which looks like a markup number in itself) The standard MF (at least in other locals I see on Edmunds) is 0.00092, the one pay drops you to 0.00019.

For rebates/residuals/MF you can check here in the RV/MF section or you can also put the question into Edmunds.

Or @Benedetto, he is the $199 direct fee guy (not 100% sure what that means)

I invoice the client directly - I don’t bill the dealer.

It’s easier on my accounting and the client doesn’t finance my fee.

The finance part saves them like $3 or something but it sounds nice :slight_smile:

Edmunds is pretty good.

Especially the forums - the staff there are definitely plugged in

Skip on them.

Don’t reward a lack of transparency.

I’ve tried that on and off (as a broker). It’s too much hassle as many people try and work you down on that number.

If you set a fee - you know how long you can spend on a client before it becomes a sunk cost.

MF is set by the lender and it’s 99.999999999999999 (to drive the point home) set at a national level.

Rare cases are vehicles that have a regional trim (like the Red Wings Ram 1500 from a few years ago) It was a big horn (IIRC) with a sticker on it :smile: