The number doesn’t quit line up but here is the breakdown:
$61,890 MSRP. 24/12k
8.76% off MSRP,
$12,500 incentives. $500 A-plan, $500 loyalty.
NO lender credit.
$596/mo, 23 payments. 10 MSDs due only.
Unfortunately, another non tax credit deal in Texas. Good part is I was able to save ~$1,700 tax by not personally buying out my current Volvo lease and resell. Ended up pocketing ~$4,900 from my previous V60CC. Factor in the tax savings I’m right under $500/mo for 24 mo. I figure unless I can press them to buyout my lease AND use lender credit on the car, this might be the best I can do for now.
Oddly enough the finance guy did use “his credit” to give me a free tire/wheel package. According to him, he likes that I had figured out the math and even know MSDs, lol. I feel that chances are if I was really hard pressing it, I might be able to get the lender credit on this car but can’t get all the unicorn deals every single time I guess. Meanwhile I did see the lot thinning after the new 5k credit so not really going to gamble it as I do need the car.
The buyout is already higher than all the online quotes and the car had a cracked windshield and needed a new set of tire, which is nowhere to be input on some websites for appraisals. Plus I don’t need to worry about market value by the time I got the title.
Now any recommendation for electricians adding 240V NEMA in DFW area? Thanks a ton!!
I have a V60CC lease end coming up soon. I know Volvo doesn’t allow for direct transfer/ sale of lease, so how exactly did you handle cashing in on that equity?
Dealer will write you a check for the net of appraised value- buyout price. No tax involved. Then you negotiate a separate deal on the lease. I got “held hostage” because they know I would loose $1,700 equity else where so they didn’t want to use the tax credit. And you can only do this for taking another lease if I’m not wrong. Otherwise it would still be a buyout yourself then resell scenario
I’m looking at the c40 ultimate as well for wife. Have A-plan + Loyalty, and am likely trying to trade in her 2016 Tuscon for this lease to see if we can get it down to ~$100/month or less (am looking at it as trading in a 8 year old car that’s got upcoming repair expenses for an additional 3 years of a new car ).
Not sure if I’m right on the untaxed incentives part. But this is what I’m looking at for 48 months. CALCULATOR | LEASEHACKR
Your 48m RV is higher than the OP’s 24m RV? Obv something is wrong here.
Don’t put down $15,000 on a lease. It doesn’t matter whether you skipped the steps of depositing a check for your equity and then writing a check for $15,000 down. Cash is still cash.
yeah i had taken his original link and modified it. I didn’t do it correctly for sure. So you suggest just selling the old car to carmax or something and then putting a more reasonable amount down? Was thinking of it more of a single payment lease. But also realize if this car would get totaled or stolen, I lose out on $15k
Then it has to be structured as a single-pay lease. With MBFS, for example, single-pay leases are prorated back to you if the car is totaled. Large down payments do not have that protection.
You can also use a chunk of that money for MSD on a traditional, monthly payment lease.
