Hello,
I’m new. Just curious why April is a recommended time to negotiate?
Thanks.
Congratulations! Awesome deal.
In this case, it’s because April is when he actually needs a car.
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I think I have to agree here. It is really early in the model year, and usually incentives get better over time on the new cars.
If it was a loaner, it would be a different story since they are few and far between due to both limited availability and people often purchasing/leasing them shortly after they are retired from service.
No problem. It seems as if there was a markup somewhere on the MF.
New here, so I apologize it this is answered elseswhere…
@volvo1 How did you find the loaner to lease? Did you call in, or just stop by randomly?
There are a lot of variables. A lot of it is just finding the right dealer at the right time. The advice I have often seen is that new cars will have better discounts and incentives towards the end of the model year, but if you can get a good loaner at a great discount, it is best just to grab it up.
I cannot speak for the qualifications that other manufacturers require for cars to be deemed loaners, but the people at the dealer I worked with on this one told me that it was after approximately 4,500 miles that Volvo would give the dealer money to be able to sell the vehicle with a larger discount compared to a new vehicle.
You ask in the forum and they just get back to you eventually? It has to be for the exact model and trim and zip correct? I was trying to google them but it’s different zip codes so One would have to post? Thanks
How do you guys search these? Is there a sticky somewhere spelling it out for me? I am totally lost on incentives etc. especially ones like Costco etc thanks
Correct. Post there asking about the trim you’re looking at and provide your zip code. They’re usually very responsive.
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Thanks for answering. So with RV and MF and Msrp and selling price and sales tax, everything can be figured out? I’m still confused about cap cost or how to fill in due at signing stuff. Anywhere to read about that? I notice that his MF is different. I assume that’s because it’s a momentum and not an R design?
There’s a great leasing101 section on the main leasehackr site, although I’d ignore the one article that suggests the 1% rule is useful for anything.
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Thanks that’s should have been obvious to me. I probably over looked that part or I’m just half asleep. Sorry to be that guy and thanks lol
No worries. You’re asking the right questions for someone new. That puts you ahead of most.
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Definitely some good questions. Though it would be great to have all of the variables, the reality is that some dealers just do not want to give out all of the information on a deal (I could not fathom why)…
Having the MF and residual is a must. If you play with the math and have one or two more of the variables, then it is just playing around with the calculator to get to where the dealer is at.
A fair warning should be noted: you may not get the exact numbers you calculated with the dealer. On my S60 deal, I think I was around $5-$10 off from what the dealer had, even though everything was the exact same. There are definitely much more intelligent people on this forum that could tell me why this is, but I just chalked it up to a rounding error because I was happy enough with the discount.
Most of the time, it seems to come down to how taxes on drive offs and such are calculated. Personally, if the DAS amount in my calculator and the deal is within $200 or so, I call it good enough.
Very true. I was doing $0 DAS, but I knew going in that I was going to have to pay interest on my dealer fee, tax, and title. $200 is a solid threshold, but I was close enough (if I just paid all my fees upfront) that I just signed it.