Reputable source for MF & RV

The first address for mf-rv is edmunds but how reliable is? Sale managers often pretend like never heard before. When you explain, they say its just vague website. You may say just move to next dealer ( i usually do ) sometimes truth has to be proven to these brats.

Edmunds is reliable, dealers are not.


Could be true. Sales manager knows his own brand’s MF and gives no hoot about other brands.


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From my experience, this forum more or less treats the Edmunds forum as gospel regarding MF and residuals. You and I both know that it’s not just some vague website, but an invaluable resource to anyone trying to understand the arithmetic behind a lease contract.

I’ve never seen the MF, residual, or lease cash be incorrect.

Regarding the Residuals, some dealer or manufacturer websites or will provide this by offering the buyout price in a lease ad along with mileage so it can be calculated (Buyout/MSRP=Residual).


When there’s an RV discrepancy you need to make sure you’re both quoting the same lender


To me edmunds is more reliable than any other dealer but there have to be one source that you input make model trim and zip to get your numbers. Otherwise they play with their rules.

Even though lower price proof provided, they play dirty “yelp” games. The printout of yelp review states that that dealer never honor their prices lol. This is more reliable than anything for them. I bet its put by rival dealer employee.

So they play any kind of dirty game so we shoppers to be well prepared

Most Sales PEOPLE can’t calculate a lease. If the captive has multiple MFs per vehicle, most Sales MANAGERS don’t know what the MF is.

OP you are an educated shopper: if your bank offered 1.9% on 60 month loans and they offered you 7.9% you’d slam on the breaks and bring your own financing.

Economics talks about the concept of perfect information: what decisions might we make if we knew all there is to know? 99% of lessors don’t know what buy rate is: Edmunds gets the rate sheets so they do. You ask them and they tell you.

If you want to take the 7.9% loan because Cleetus of Autonation Ford said that’s the rate, don’t make a fuss. I would (and do).

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Dealers get THEIR rate sheet for their region each month from the captive. Not ALL dealers get ALL rate sheets for the captive that month. Edmunds does.

Dont mind me asking what is captive?

And also its kind of forum style like here somebody answering you is that right place?

Captive is the bank. The lessor.

Yes, the edmunds forum is the place to ask. It’s a weird system, but it seems to be necessary to stay within their agreements with the banks to get the info.


If you go to a Volvo store: 19 banks will loan you money. Only Volvo’s captive lender VCFS (Bank of America) will lease.

For Subaru/Mazda/JLR it’s Chase. BMW/MB is ${brand} Financial Services.

In some rare cases there is more than one: US Bank will lease vehicles and isn’t their captive.

And yes Edmunds forum is where you post and ask for (sing along @mllcb42) residual, money factor, and incentives in YOUR zip code for the year/make/model under consideration. Different trims can have wildly different residuals and MF.

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I’ve never seen edmunds be wrong but like was mentioned:

-Make sure you read the thread of the correct model year (ie don’t check 2019 numbers on a 2020)
-Make sure to ask your specific trim and zip. For Chrysler products for example every trim has its own residual and money factor. Makes it great if you want a Grand Cherokee limited but not if you want some less desirable trim.
-Have those numbers before you go to the dealer since it can take a few hours to get a response.

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If a dealer gives an inflated MF, tell them you want you’ll take your business elsewhere or give a bigger discount off the MSRP.

They do make mistakes sometimes, but then correct them. More to do with pulling wrong numbers from correct data.

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Can any brand change the residual??? I believe every make and model is set by the bank and no dealer can change the residual? In essence what I’m saying is that a deal can’t be completed w the WRONG residual as the deal won’t be funded. Only reason to know proper residual is obtaining whether the model will lease well. Incentives can’t be changed either. Can dealers pocket them? I thought they may be able to. Mf is the one that can be increased and is important to know the base to. But I could be wrong in my thought process

Dealer can’t change the residual, but it is very helpful to know the proper number so you can calculate payments yourself and to verify that the contract is correct. I have definitely seen cases where someone asks for 15k miles and the dealer quotes 10k miles and it is caught because of the difference in residual.

Knowing the incentives is important because dealers will roll them into the discount and not disclose that they exist. Makes it look like they’re giving a great deal, but actually aren’t.


There is more than one bank for each brand, such as third party lenders such as Ally and USB. They each set their own RV

Max understood. But still each sets their own residual. It can not be funded wo the correct residual. What I mean by all this is the dealer can not screw you w a wrong residual to make money off of you. They can inflate the mf however for added profit

That is correct. The deal would not get funded with an incorrect residual

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*can be - yes

Remember just because US Bank will lease a VW, that dealership needs to be setup with US Bank to send them lease contracts. And your F&I person needs to know how to do that. So VW Dealer A may have US Bank setup but VW Dealer B may not (or one may have broken up with the other). Only the brands captive lender is guaranteed to be available to lease at any given dealership (financing and often floor plan are in their dealer agreement).

What I have not seen published are non-captive lease residual and MF. I can’t ask Edmunds what US Bank will do on the same car this month. Someone who has the rate sheet has to compare.

Exactly. They have the same rate sheets as dealers, but for some brands it’s quite a matrix. Where I’ve seen a rare edmunds mistake is usually someone asks for 2 cars in three trims with 7500/10k/15k miles at 24 and 36 months.