You seem like you have many more valuable ways to spend your time instead of worrying about $100 per month more as long as you get the car you like - I can respect that.
Offer him $1000 per month zero down (true sign and drive) and with your loyalty to RR taken into consideration - I don’t see why he wouldn’t help you out.
People will say you overpaid but as long as you are happy and can afford it, who cares? A 1% deal is rare on 2019 Range Rovers custom order and you are going to have to pay the premium. I think most people here, including myself, would take a 2018 for $300 less per month but you want the 2019 so they can’t apply the same logic and discount percentages.
Im not a guru like some of the respondents here but here is my 2 cents. Have you compared what your total ownership cost would be if you financed the car like you did before do vs leasing it i.e. calculate your total payments for the car for 33 months if you financed then compare it to the lease payments over the same period. Assuming the residual is comparable to trade in value, that may at least give you a baseline of which is better off and give you better footing to start negotiating the lease.
A caveat here is that with leasing the residual is agreed to at the time of signing the contract; this basically means if the value of the car in 3 years is lower than the agreed residual in the lease contract, it’s the lease company’s problem not yours. Conversely, if you finance the car you’ll take the hit when it comes to trade in and effectively a higher cost of ownership over the same timeframe.
It sounds like you’re pretty busy with your work. I’d like to echo someone else’s comment here and suggest looking to get a broker to do the legwork for you. on a 3 year lease, their fee is probably going to work out to the equivalent of ~$20 per month and they may find a better deal for you.
Short answer: Hire a broker, you’re looking for a better deal but aren’t interested in the finer details so a broker is the only logical choice. People have recommended @Benedetto, not sure where you are but I’m sure there are other brokers in your area.
Long answer: If you’re going to continue to switch out cars every 3 years then you need to lease and stop buying, as you’ve already experienced an accident, your fault or not, will hit the value of the vehicle. With a lease you’re protected as you have a guaranteed get-out after 3 years but financing/owning you’re eating any loss of value the vehicle suffers.
A plea from the good designers of the world: I don’t normally comment on color choice but on a custom order you can choose any color combo. Please don’t do white on off-white with wood trim, it’s so old fashioned and it doesn’t really work design-wise. Let your hair down, order a different color combo like Firenze red, black accent roof or Loire blue, so many nice color combos these days especially on premium vehicles like the RRS. It’ll be easier to find in a car park too.
Isn’t it pay now or pay me later?.. won’t I have to pay the taxes/fees at some point anyway? Parth mentioned asking for $1000 per month zero at signing… was he referring to asking the dealer to remove taxes and fees and pay only 1000 per month throughout the entire lease… I simply can’t imagine a Land Rover dealer doing that… Yes I can see the $1,000 a month but can’t imagine zero at signing for a 78k vehicle (already discounted to 74k). Is that even realistic to think that any land rover dealer would do that?
I am new here so anyone please correct me if I am wrong but from what I have read is that ideally you want to aim for 1% of MSRP as your lease payment. Again, I don’t know what range rovers leases go for but I would aim for around $800 is possible especially if a repeat customer.
Putting to perspective, my wife and I “splurged” a little earlier this year. We traded in our car, which had about the same amount of equity as you (around 21k) on a car MSRP’d at 64k. I negotiated a sale price of 58.5k. We ended up using penfed’s auto loan payment saver. We put the 21k towards the new car, financed the rest at 2.49% with this “payment saver” or “lease” like program for 36 months at $250 a month. We have the freedom to pay it off whenever or we can pay it off after 3 years. Maybe something to consider?
Yes zero down when you sign papers (nada nothing $0 total) and then $1000 per month + tax
That’s what we did when my mom leases her MDX, nothing due at signing and $520 per month + tax
Also, I want to add that when you really want a particular car - it’s fair to pay a bit more and be happy. I recently leased an Audi S5 sportback prestige and people said I overpaid but in reality it was damn near impossible to hit the 1% mark and I ended up at 1.2% roughly, you’ll be around there with a $1000 payment but you like the car so who cares??
Frankly, this deal looks atypical for Land Rover. I don’t think you can expect much better than that.
I am in the luxury SUV market right now, too. I’ve leased cars for 30 years. Right now, interest rates are higher, there’s a glut of used cars, very few incentives, and sales are starting to reflect the business climate. On top of that, BMW and Audi (X5 and Q8) have new models and there’s not a lot of dealer inventory. Dealers have the upper hand right now and while I’ll pay more for a lease than I historically have, it’s still better than buying.
Thank you for this input Parth. Are you suggesting that I asked him to do the entire lease for $1000 per month zero payment/fees/taxes at signing (essentially $36K for 36 or $39,000 for 39 months total)
I agree with what Parth said. If you are absolutely dead set on this make and model and then a bit here and or there wouldn’t matter. Another poster also commented on Land Rover not being the best brand to lease from.
If I were in your shoes, I would aim for under $1000. I would try very hard to get $899/month, zero down, sign and drive. If they can do $899, tell them you will sign that day. Just my .02
OK, this entire thing is making me absolutely crazy. I need someone I can trust and I see I can’t trust anyone anymore because the long term relationships I’ve built with people I thought I trusted within the dealerships are obviously not trustable. I have never heard of lease deals like that in my area…is this an area specific kind of thing? I live on the North Shore of Boston & all of the dealers in Massachusetts and the one in New Hampshire which is owned by someone from Massachusetts are very tough to negotiate with. I have many friends who drive Range Rover‘s and Range Rover Sports and none of them have ever heard of the type of deals being discussed on this forum. Does anyone live in my area? Are deals and negotiating tactics specific to certain regions of the country?
Stinger… Thank you… Thank you for clarifying this! I felt like I was banging my head against the wall and I do business with a lot of people in my area…everyone knows me and I know everyone and I am usually very well taken care of as I take care of everyone else. Looking at some of these numbers… like trying to lease a $78,000 vehicle for 899 per month sign and drive would be absolutely comical and this area. The big thing I would have to remember is that if I went outside my region the black-tie service I receive from my local dealer without ever even having to go to the dealership/service center EVER… Literally he brings me my range rover loaners from an hour away where they’re located anytime I send my vehicle in for annual service and if there’s ever a problem they take care of it immediately and I drive a Range Rover loner ( for the record I haven’t had any issues with my 2016 people I see online have written that range rovers have problems I’ve never experienced this personally in the recent models… only issue I ever encountered was an air filter & sensor that was quickly replaced in remedied. with regard to how they take care of me after the sale I have been extremely happy & never a problem. So, now I guess I just need to know what the best deal in my region would be because being well taken care of with a great loner if my car has any issues or needs service is important to me. Anyone have knowledge of the Northeast market and the best deal I could get?
I think you are underestimating your power as a customer. Most decent luxury carmaker dealers treat customers properly after sale. You will be paying for maintenance anyways so any other LR dealer including your current one will be happy to have your service business even if you don’t purchase from them. Warranty repairs are covered by manufacturer, again neither you nor dealer should care. If you are getting anything extra ( like loaners being delivered to you), you are probably paying for the privilege somewhere. If I were you, I would shop around, compare offers financially first and see if your current dealer deserves your business at this time.
I commented much further up, but let me respond to some of the recent comments as well as your question about deals in the NE.
I’m in the NYC area and reached out -by email- to every dealer in New England up through and including Maine, and then down as far south as Maryland. I sent them a RRS TD6 build and a LR Discovery TD6 build. Both were $80k MSRPs, so the Disco was loaded, the RRS less so. I told them I wanted the exact build and so needed to custom order one or the other. I told them I wasn’t interested in a phone call, a dealer visit, test drive, or anything other than an email containing:
-their best price vs MSRP
-then current residual and MF for the lease terms I was interested in (33 or 36 mo, 10K mi/year); note that these changed slightly by the time my car landed
Some dealers didn’t respond at all.
Some responded with autoresponders.
Some responded asking me to call, or come in to talk, or for a test drive.
Some told me they couldn’t “deal” at the distance between us because supposedly JLR spiffs dealers in some way that encourages local transactions or discourages distant transactions. I have no idea if that’s true but more than one responded as such.
OF THE SMALL HANDFUL that responded, two were willing to give me 5% under MSRP, which is basically invoice. Not a dollar more was offered in an effort to secure the deal. So let’s start there. Unless you’re talking about iron sitting on the lot that a dealer is really trying/needing to move before a certain date (usually their fiscal year end which may or may not be Dec 31), I do believe this is the best you’re going to do.
The geographically closer of the two dealers offering the 5% discount tried to mark up the MF, but I pushed back and they gave me the then-current LRFS MF. The residual is the residual. Nonnegotiable.
Add up all the above, and the bottom line is that Land Rovers do not lease “well” in the LeaseHackr framework. Our $80k Discovery is $820/mo, or about 1.03% of MSRP, with taxes and fees paid up front (my preference, as I find the idea of rolling them into the lease and paying interest on taxes odious). The $80k RRS build was something like $1000/mo, apples to apples, or about 1.25% of the MSRP.
I would call our Disco lease good in the LeaseHackr sense, and very good in the LR world. The equivalent RRS lease offer was decent in the LR world, and bad in the LeaseHackr world.
As some have said, if your heart is set on a particular vehicle, you’re at the mercy of what the collective market will tolerate. I could’ve leased another X5 for well under 1% of MSRP. But we really love the Discovery, and that was that.
PM me if you want the name of my salesperson and dealer contact info.
