I emailed the local BMW dealer today and after a bit of back and forth here is what I got, was curious what the pros here think.
MSRP: $51,795.00
Cap Cost Reductions: $7,750 (dealer discount + incentives)
Adjusted Cap Cost: $44,045
Residual Value: 60%
Money Factor: 0.00166 (made a typo in original post) reduced via MSDs 0.00131
Tax: 7%
Total Monthly Payment: $490 a month
for 12,000 miles a year for 36 months
Drive-Offs 2450 (Lease Acquisition Fee+Doc Fee+Tags/+Title+Tax+First Months Payment) + 900 added to my $3,100 which are being rolled over for a total of $3,500.
The Drive Offs are a bit higher because I prefer to pay all fees upfront rather than in the lease.
I am in FL
I have given the deposit to get the order going with the factory and will sign lease paperwork, etc upon delivery with the understanding that the program then if better I would trade into.
I really should not post at night when my mind is tired, I twice made mistakes with the MF, my apologies.
With regards to the MF, I made a typo, it should be 0.00166.
The salesperson said he placed an order for a 2018 and the computer did not reject it and he did provide me an order number which according to BMW shows a 2018 330i.
Regarding the discount, I thought so too, but he was insistent that was the best that he could do and admittedly, I have never been sure if the Trucar price is before incentives or after, he claims after, I do not know because Truecar was saying $45,469 or something close to that.
With 3500 DAS that’s equal to a little over $600/month. That’s double what people here are paying for 3 series leases.
However…
I don’t see a breakdown for incentives, but if you only qualify for the (last I looked) 3k incentive, you’re getting a $4750 discount. If that’s the case, then that’s a little over 9% off on an order which from their end really is a good deal (still a bad lease though).
By DAS I mean Due At Signing, or drive offs. It’s recommended to wrap as much into the monthly as possible, but regardless you have to factor that in when you calculate the actually monthly cost. So the issues isn’t the money DAS itself, it’s the total monthly cost, which is about $575 here (my estimate was off in previous post).
The reason I say that’s a bad lease is if you look in the trophy garage or at some of the posted deals, you’ll see some $52k 3 series for under $350 a month. For what it’s worth, I picked up a similarly equipped 330e a few months ago, and it’s costing me $290/month all in.
For this deal, the dealer should be willing to come down another 1000 or 1500. They’re still making money at that point and it’s not like they really have to do much work to put in an order.
If there is something special/rare about this car that you have to order it, there isn’t much you can do to make it a great lease.
If you’re just ok with normal options, look for stuff already in inventory where you can get a bigger discount. Specifically, check your local dealerships for “loaner” or “executive demo” vehicles. They’re usually posted on their websites under new car specials. These can often be had with 20% discounts before incentives.
Firstly, as I said earlier, I am a Physician, a surgeon to be exact and business and negotiations are not my strongest suit. I had a sense that I should have been given a at least a further grand off the dealer discount, but the gentleman held is ground and it was a struggle to even get him to talk about the MSD program.
He kept trying to sing the praises of a down payment which he kept referring to as a customer cap cost adjustment and it took a long time to get him to admit that it was a down payment.
As we were talking the hospital called and I had an emergency at the hospital and had to hang up on him and while I was operating he sent a text with a form from the dealership detailing what we had talked about and that he did get confirmation that as I was a previous MSD customer I could do MSDs again rather than a customer cap cost adjustment, the order number which BMWusa.com says has started production and since that text, the salesman and I have not talked.
Secondly, I realize that one should wrap as much as possible into the monthly payment, even my accountant has told me this, but I intend to pay the DAS with my AMEX and earn points, so the more points the better as I use those points for trips and things and as I cannot pay my monthly payment with my AMEX, I elected to pay all DAS upfront.
Thirdly, when I reach out to the salesman again, do I just say I would like a thousand more discount by the dealer or is there something else I should say to get the desired outcome?
With regards to the car, it is not out of the ordinary per se, it is just an alpine white with coganc interior, but I added ACC and the Executive Package which not many “lot cars” seem to come with.
Thanks again for your input and I look forward to your and others responses.
You should try to get a bigger discount, roll all tax title and fees into the payment, put the MSDs on your AMEX, and use the new CCA incentive (but first get a bigger discount, then add the incentive)
Down payment and cap cost reduction is the same thing.
My wife is a physician as well and honestly, it’s totally not worth her time to negotiate deals herself. I have more free time and enjoy reading these forums, so I handle all the car-related activities in the family.
You should just hire a broker or be happy with your deal. Your time is more valuable than continuing to negotiate with different dealers, especially in FL.
I probably should be happy, but honestly, I do not have anybody to negotiate for myself, the wife, yeah she is worse than me, and honestly, I am sort of committed now to get a win or at least a somewhat win. Granted, I could hire someone but that would probably eat some of my savings, wouldn’t it?
Assuming I would be able to get a $1,000 off according to my math that would make the payment $460 a month which I would be very happy about, would that be correct?
Yes, every $1000 discount for a 36 month lease saves about $30/month. A broker on here usually charges $400 I believe, so that would eat into some of your savings.
Contact @nyclife or @Benedetto and I’m sure they can fairly quickly tell you if they can get you your desired monthly numbers BEFORE charging you their broker fee.
I do sincerely appreciate all the input, it does mean more to me than you might actually believe.
A lot of your wisdom sounds like my son who I lost 6 months ago to a battle with cancer, he was an MBA and always knew exactly what to say in a Business transaction. So thank you all again.
I am going to email the salesman later today requesting a further $1000 dealer discount and will see what they say.
My math tells me by requesting a further grand I am asking for 9% off of MSRP before incentives which seems good to me.
Anyway, thanks again for the insight and if anyone has any advice on how to word the email, I am all ears.
You need to be at 12% off before incentives. Plain and simple.
12% off MSRP BEFORE incentives
Roll all fees into the cap cost and do a pure $0 DAS sign and drive
Base MF should be 0.00166
Acq Fee should be $925
Some may disagree, but I would never use MSDs when leasing. Primarily because I like the flexibility of being able to transfer out of leases easily and tying up MSDs means you’ll have to find someone willing to front you that cash upfront. It’s a difficult sell.
Plus, my return on that money from the stock market and cryptocurrency far outweighs the reduction in MF. Just my $0.02
It’s a 3 series. 12% is absolutely doable. I know several in California that will do 12% without hesitation before incentives. This isn’t a special car and they have to move these off of lots.
I’ve leased 9 BMWs in 11 years and I can tell you that as long as you have confidence in your offer and it’s within reason (i.e. 12%) you’ll get your deal. If they balk, find another dealer. The 3 series is a dime a dozen.
