Dig yourself, Lazarus
Dig yourself, Lazarus
Dig yourself, Lazarus
Dig yourself, back in that hole
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So, the EV $7500 rebate for lease which I suggested OP to use exists, and you can’t deny it.
You pick something irrelevant instead, that I didn’t suggest OP to use, and bring it up just to ‘prove a point’ that I said something wrong? I am not selling GLE’s and have no time to waste with anyone who is pissed because I tell people about $7500 EV lease rebate for GLE450e that some would rather keep secret.
No, Sir, I will not. She can lease it, get $7500 EV lease rebate and buy her lease from MBFS the next day. Easy way to get a $7500 discount on a purchase of GLE450e that dealers won’t give her if she goes straight to purchase it.
You clearly don’t get it, sir. Let the salesman and sales manager handle that part and have the OP make the decision as it is NOT your decision to make. @trusted_hackrs, can we please close this thread?
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I’m not sure you understand using “lease rebate” and “purchase rebate” interchangeably can cause confusion, they don’t mean the same thing
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@evitawylie you got what you need? Do you want this thread closed?
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This is what I have said:
** There is 7500 rebate on EV vehicles and it applies to GLE450e, it’s a tax rebate if you purchase (income contingent), and direct credit by MB if you lease (regardless of your income).**
Now, you do realize that it’s a petty and childish argument that you and some others engage in, given the context of conversation. if all you have to say is “7500 EV tax rebate for GLE450e doesn’t exist, but lease rebate does” , that’s fine. And essentially pointless, since I didn’t tell OP to buy the car and get that rebate. I said lease with EV rebate, get that 7500 off your balance and then buy your lease from MBFS, like anyone else can. . Period. Going back and forth, over and over, arguing about it and repeatedly saying “that tax rebate for this car doesn’t exist!” is just useless waste of time.
As to confusion, I don’t think anyone was really confused about anything, as poster below stated:
It just appears as if some posters who pick on and want to provoke bitter argument resorting to ad hominems have certain agenda. I am not sure what the agenda is, but in this instance clearly some people don’t like to the idea that OP can lease a car, get full $7500 EV rebate on a lease and then buy their leased car the next day after leasing, with 7500 discount applied to the balance. And instead of addressing that particular and relevant statement (which they can’t, since it’s accurate) resort to picking something else and irrelevant to it (“You also said about tax rebate and that does not exist!”) , and stick to arguing it over and over instead of answering why OP can’t lease, get 7500 rebate and buy her leased car the next day.
I have no stake in this argument, either way (whether there are incentives or not) I don’t care personally, I am not selling GLE’s and don’t have to gain or loose anything by letting someone else know they can lease a car, take advantage of lease rebate and then buy that car. So I will put it to rest there. But engaging in petty arguments and harassing other posters on public forum with the intent to censor or silence them has something to say about those who do it. And if opinions other than generally approved orthodoxy were successfully stifled here it would end up hurting the credibility of this platform, so I am not sure those who demand moderators to put limit on number of words or take my ability to post here realize the harm they are doing to the very platform they may depend on for various reasons.
Its a simple agenda: provide people with accurate information about their available options so they can make an educated decision.
Doubling down on providing patently false information over and over again does nothing more than confuse people looking for help.
Absolutely no one is against the idea of doing a lease-to-purchase approach to capture incentives only available on a lease, when it makes financial sense to do it.
Be introspective for a moment here and ask yourself how you made the leap from having people insure correct information was provided to those asking questions to some grand conspiracy.
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For the hundredth time, you stated in no uncertain terms that the credit exists on a purchase. IT DOES NOT. How on earth is that “irrelevant” when people come here trying to find useful information and they are faced with someone who not only spews false information but also quadruples down on it. Good grief lad. Stubbornness is not a virtue. Accept your defeat here.
P.S. every time someone comes at you with facts, you accuse them of selling GLE’s for some strange reason. So let me state unequivocally for the record that I do not sell cars.
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The ignore feature doesn’t work that well here b/c they post so freq across many threads and b/c so many keep engaging them. The thread ends up being derailed.
I do think people should stop engaging so much w/ the poster.
I have contacted @michael and @littleviolette about this.
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Wow - such a lively discussion! Thanks for all who have chimed in. I appreciate everyone’s advice and expertise.
I ran the numbers for all of the options, and oddly enough, it is cheapest for me to pay all cash for the car. Some of the financing options would have me paying over $105k for a $81k car. No thank you!
Apparently AMEX has a discount if you’re a card member so we could save a meager $500 off the sticker price. But $500 is still $500.
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Paying cash is not always the best deal. Example: $80,000 car sold for $70,000 all in (TTL, incentives and everything else applied). If you were to pay “cash” the price is $70k OTD, but if the dealer has financing available and you use it, they may be getting a non-customer facing incentive from the lender to push that lender’s paper.
If the dealer is getting $2,500 behind the scenes to push the lender’s paper, you can ask for half of that @ $1,250 off of the $70k for a new OTD price of $68,750. Dealer may ask or “require” you keep the loan for 3-4 months or something like that as well.
Whether you actually keep the loan that long or pay it off ASAP (no interest) is up to you (your word, honor, unenforceable terms, etc. aside), but assuming you keep it the interest paid over that period vs. the discount comes into play.
Might be worth asking about as this is far more frequent than most people realize.
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Not sure if you saw this:
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Some people take informal discussions on public forum too seriously, in terms of waging a battle for victory /defeat. Or, there might be some nefarious agenda behind it (most likely). Either way, I am out of this senseless back and forth.
Silly newbie question - how would I ask for half of the lender’s incentive? What phrasing would I use to even inquire about that?
Yes, you do! BTW, great self-assessment and perfect avatar for you^^^. 
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Do all of this by asking the dealer up front NOT to run a credit report (but know your credit and score BEFORE you go in). Do not even fill out a “credit app” until all of this is finalized, you have all the terms up front and are certain you are pulling the trigger.
Start by asking the dealer if there is any financing that they “use” or “recommend.” Then ask what the terms are (rate and months) at Tier 1 credit, etc.
Then ask if they are willing to give a further discount for using “their” lender(s), and if so how much and how long would they “require” you to keep the loan before you pay it off. Most lenders may “clawback” any incentive they give the dealer if the customer does not keep the loan for a certain term, but that is between the dealer and lender.
If they say “we’ll give you another $1k off for
our lender” then ask for $2.5k off, etc. and settle for $1,750 for example.
YMMV.
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This is genuinely surprising. What were the numbers on the lease to buy option?
Isn’t leasing to buy generally the most cost inefficient way?
Not when there is an extra $7500 in incentives and you are doing an immediate buyout.
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