Midsize suv recommendations

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I know right now is a terrible time to get a car but we sold my girlfriends car last year and now need to replace it over the coming weeks. We were looking at the Mazda CX-5 but the quotes I’ve been getting are outrageous.

Which midsize suvs would you recommend right now? Would like to be below $500 a month with taxes and fees down.

you might be able to get into a jeep grand cherokee L or regular under $500

I’m under 500 on rav and venza. No msds needed on the rav. Message me if interested in Toyota

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Your best bet is to purchase/finance a vehicle that was known to hold value well even before COVID

RAV4, CRV, etc.

One slight variation of this strategy is buying a PHEV version of the RAV4, Sorento, etc for the federal tax credit.

Located in Florida

I dont plan to put money down outside of tax and tag but this is what they sent me. I can’t get it to match the calculator. Also is that doc fee marked up?

2021 CX-5 Grand Touring

MSRP: $33,185
Sale Price: $31,142
36/12k
RV: 57%
MF: 0.00107 (they say)
Doc Fee: $999
up front tax & tag: $690
Monthly Payment: $438
DAS:$3k
Tax: 6.6%

FL doc fee is uncapped, so it’s not unusual.

Did you find out what it is on Edmunds forums, or just take their word for it?

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No I checked edmunds. It’s marked up from 0.00057. That’s the number they gave me.

Check in with @AutoNinjas or @LeasyDeals I know in the past they had pretty good deals on CX-5s

How is your new quote any less outrageous?

It’s not really but it’s a discount. First place that’s offered it.

With paying close to MSRP am I better off waiting a few weeks and getting the 2022? Or should I expect that it will be even less attractive?

You can keep pushing this CX5-sized Boulder uphill, doubt it’s gonna get meaningfully better.

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You don’t plan to put money down outside of tax & tag, but you have $780 as money down in the calculator…?

The deal sucks IMO. The fees are significant, RV is just ok, money factor I can’t speak on because I haven’t looked into it. Why not just finance if this is the vehicle you want? Nearly $500/mo effective on a ~$30k Mazda does nothing to excite me.

Can you really find anything that excites you in this market?

What’s the difference buying vs leasing? Interest rate is lower to lease why would buying be better? If there’s any equity at the end of the lease I can just buy it.

A couple weeks in this environment isn’t going to make any difference whatsoever. Mazda has one of the lowest days on lot numbers of anyone right now. 2 weeks isn’t going to get thousands of cars produced, shipped to port and delivered to the dealerships to give them a now glut of cars they have to figure out how to sell.

I don’t think very many captives, if any, have any factory to dealer incentive targets right now, so unless they have an in-house quota of cars they want to sell, and willing to take a loss on 1 or 2 to hit that target, they’re not going to drop their pants the last week of the month this year either.

I dont expect them to discount either very much. I’m just wondering if mazda financial will have a shittier MF and residual on the 2022s. Most dealers I’ve talked to have said their expecting 2022s in january.

  1. You don’t pay acquisition fee on a buy = 650 savings
  2. Not sure if Mazda has a buyout fee if you decide to buy. If they do, there’s some more savings. You’ll also have to pay another doc fee if you buy it at the end of your lease…ballpark 500-1000 extra in FL depending on who does it for you.
  3. You can get a comparable finance rate if you look hard enough. It might be a little more expensive, but not by a meaningful amount
  4. You own the car and can do what you want with it, and sell it whenever you want without worry of Toyota shutting off 3rd party buyouts on Mazda.
  5. No possibility of excess wear and tear or over mile penalties.
  6. In the 3 years you are owning it vs the 3 years you are leasing, you will pay off more of principal.
  7. If you decide to buy it after the 3 year lease, you’ll pay more overall for the car.

They likely will, but nobody can predict that for you either. That said, once a 22 hits the lot, it will be worth more than a 21 should you decide to later flip it.

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It’s virtually guaranteed that the total finance cost of lease MF + used car loan APR in the future > new car loan APR on day one.

And that’s before the acq fee which you mentioned, which is really another financial cost that doesn’t apply to purchase

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I also forgot he’ll add another doc fee in there should he buy it out at the end of the lease, so there’s another 500-1000 in FL.

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Thanks for saving my thumbs. I didn’t feel like attempting to explain the reasons “why”. :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

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