Where do you think the depreciation and interest go on a finance?
I picked mine up today and on the way home put a deposit down on a 24. Holy s**t how is this a real vehicle?!?!
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Wait, what? Why?
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Congrats! Show me that pretty kick ass blue in person
This is all I want to drive for the rest of my life.
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It looks $25,000 sexier than mine
Also Mr. Serdar Can may be a countryman of mine!
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Lots of factors including length of loan and rate, and depreciation depends on how long you keep. I agree four years ownership and 80,000 miles it will depreciate a good amount.
Sounds like you got it figured out! Post pics once you take delivery.
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Where are the Rolexes and Platinum cards??
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Congrats! Yes it’s addicting. I’m on my third.
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Sold them to afford this.
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Matt Evan Kardashian
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So there’s a sex tape?
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I love america for this reason
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What rate are you assuming for the refinance? You’re paying 9.6% on the lease!!! $64,000 in interest expense!!!
Mathematically impossible to come out ahead leasing over buying…unless you’re assuming an astronomical refinance rate. The only exceptions I can think of are:
- If this were a car that wasn’t eligible for the accelerated/bonus depreciation, then it can be better off to lease with an intentionally low residual so you can write off the payments and then buy the car at a below market value. But given this car is eligible, no way leasing makes sense.
- you think the car will be worth less than the residual…it sounds like you’re certain of the opposite
Simple math. Finance (or refinance) $225k at 6% for 72 months. Payment is $3728 (just slightly less than your lease pmt). Loan balance after 48 months is $84,134 or $16,000 less than your lease residual. And you have total flexibility to trade out of the car if you find something better…vs being stuck in a lease with a buyout penalty.
Double check your math…or look at non-dealer refinancing options. If your best option is 9.6% 
on lease or finance, just buy the car with cash.
The residual is 69k after 48 months.
Therefore I’d owe 15k more on a loan than it’s theoretically worth.
The math doesn’t ever favor a lease being cheaper than a finance. It’s almost always about $200/mo more when all things considered.
I’m banking on it being worth less than expected (MMRs) at 36/48 months and more than the residual and minimizing my losses. It’s 10k up front gamble.
Not true at all. How can you say this on LH? 
If the money factor was lower than the best finance rate you could obtain, the lease could be cheaper. In this case, you’re paying a .004 money factor or 9.6%.
Not sure I understand. How can it be worth less than expected and more than the residual? Isn’t the residual the expected future value? If you’re saying you think the residual is too high, then the guaranteed value is a valid consideration for leasing (still don’t think it overcomes the difference in interest expense). But I thought you were saying you thought the car would be worth more than the residual.
So it comes down to the question I asked before. What interest rate are you assuming for the finance/refinance? If you’re assuming 9.9%, then leasing may come out ahead. But I’m seeing rates of 5.39% and 5.99% for 72 months. This will be significantly cheaper than leasing at 9.6%. Your total interest paid after 48 months on a 6 year 6% loan will be $38121 compared to $56640 in interest expense on the 48 month lease (using the $69k residual). So you’re paying a whopping $18,500 for the residual guarantee.
Your money and your decision. I just want to make sure other readers are able to discern when it is better to lease vs finance.
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1010101010
The $200 thing is just for my case, finance rate of 5.74% or lease at 0.00305 (after MSD) __ roughly 7.5%.
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Do it. Just do it. Just marry me.
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