I’m in Illinois and looking for advice so I don’t get burned. I’ve been lurking in the forum for years but just now signed up. Basically, I’m trying to figure out as of November 2020, for which one of these am I more likely to score a better deal.
I am currently in month 24 of a 36 month lease for an Audi Q5. We recently had a baby and are looking to upgrade. This is essentially the only reason I’d be looking at an SQ7 in case the dealership has a pull ahead program.
My first choice is a BMW X5 M50i. Below is the one that I’ll be looking at. I did a quick reachout to the dealership to confirm availability and as a first step, they said that they have the rebates below available.
My second option is the SQ7. As mentioned above, I have a current lease with this dealership and was going to reach out on available pull ahead programs.
I am looking to stay under the $1k/month range. Am I just being silly thinking it may be possible? Which of these am I more likely to score a better deal on in the current market? I know that the SQ7 was just facelifted, but is my second choice.
That x5 deal is horrible, but you’re really going about this all backwards. You should know exactly what the two cars will cost you before you talk to a dealer.
The big headache here is likely to be your current lease. Is there even 12 months of pull ahead available from audi right now?
Thanks. I am in no rush to jump on any number. I will be going to the dealership and get their preliminary numbers tomorrow once they do an appraisal. At that point I’ll know more, but I have a monthly payment in mind based on some calculations I did on their website with the incentives.
Basically, it will be much easier once I get more info on the trade in.
Get some price estimates from carvana, shift, vroom, etc to have some idea of where you’re at. There’s really no purpose in talking numbers with the dealer at this point. You need to work out what your target deal is, determine if anything can reasonably be done with your trade, etc first. There’s nothing the dealership is going to do for you tomorrow that is going to be in you financial best interest.
Remember, talking numbers with a dealer is for finding someone to do your deal. You need to figure out what that is first. Starting that conversation before you have that worked out is just setting yourself up for failure.
I already got a KBB and Carvana trade in estimate. They are offering me 3-4k less than the current payoff amount. I wanted to get a few number before even going in to be prepared.
What’s on my side is that I don’t need to upgrade right now. I can also wait 12 months until the lease is over. I’m just scratching an itch right now. I want to go in, listen to their offer, negotiate to a point where I feel comfortable. If nothing comes out of it, so be it.
My biggest question is, in your guys’ opinion, which of these (with the current incentives) am I more likely to score a better deal with.
I am not looking to negotiate or finalize negotiations there on the spot. The main reason why I’m going in is for them to appraise the Q5. Without that basis, there’s no way to get the final numbers.
The point of this thread is to see where I may get a better deal (leaving the trade-in out of the equation.) I know that’s a separate discussion.
If there is a pull ahead option on the Audi, then you really can’t leave the trade in out of the conversation as not having to eat all the negative equity will make a big difference in where you’re starting.
From there, it’s a standard eval. Get rv/mf/incentives from edmunds, research target pre-incentive discount and put the numbers together. As I have been saying since the beginning, you need to put together your target deals to figure out the prices given your personal situation to answer your question.
Thanks for your continuous input. I also received a Truecar email about a $3250 military incentive, which I may qualify for, which may offset any negative equity on the BMW.
If you’re interested in evaluating the deals, evaluate the deals. When you start trying to bookkeep it in weird ways, you end up conflating the deal. The target price on the bmw is the same with or without the trade in, and then you get to eat the negative equity. Your net cash flow may be the same, but you’re mixing a sunk cost with the cost of the new vehicle, which doesn’t allow you to properly compare.
There is an etiquette of sorts on LH. Users are certainly welcome to ask for assistance and opinion on various deals, but we are not here to do your work.
Please read Leasing 101 and learn to use the LH calculator. It will not only make sure that you understand how your deal is structured, but also much easier for others to provide feedback. You will also be able to quickly manipulate the variables to see how it changes the monthly, total, etc. Driveoffs with and without rolling in acquisition fee, $0 DAS, etc. It takes some time to understand where taxed and untaxed incentives go, and it really reinforces- focus on the pre-incentives discount 1st. It will only help you in any other future car deals as well.
It’s also helpful for yourself (and other here for comments/analysis) if you get your buy rate MF and regional incentives from Edmunds forum and re-post those numbers in your ask for feedback post here.
In addition by doing this ‘research’, you will begin to see the different tactics different dealers will take.
Just listing the raw numbers in your deal isn’t nearly as useful for yourself or for those you are asking for analysis. We all have other jobs so at least for me personally, I’m not here to do your work for you so I can’t comment on your proposed deals.
Lastly, if you’ve done your research and know what a ‘good’ deal is- present it to the dealerships what you are looking for. Work with SM/GSM/GMs. There are plenty of posts on this subject. If you’re grinding and doing it in person-IMO- that’s not how it’s suggested/purpose of this group. LH is suppose to be easy-to-do deals where you don’t put yourself in harms way during COVID-19 and get worn down by the sales people. Time = $. Or hire a broker.
And leave your trade out of the equation- do that after you’ve gotten the deal you are happy with and it only confuses the deals. Dealers may give you more on your trade, but then lower your discount on the new car. Don’t give them the chance.
Days of going in and ‘negotiating’ the best deal is an antiquated idea.
