I’m pretty new here, but I saw your other post (if you wanted to try to get more responses, perhaps better to post on this thread so that it’ll bump the entire thread up to the top of the queue… I had to look at your profile to see what you were talking about originally).
From what I’ve seen, the general consensus about Honda Accords is that it might make more sense to purchase/finance than to lease b/c Honda doesn’t really offer much in the way of subsidizing leases (in the way that BMW and Mercedes do).
Your discount looks pretty good, and the MF seems very low (are you doing a one-pay, though?). $295 seems a reasonable deal to me.
You can certainly insist that they take the splash guards off; they can, of course, decline. I can’t answer the other 4 questions you’ve posed, but have asked the dealer to explain (esp about question #5)?
my potential deal is 36 payments with the first one due at signing…i didn’t know one pay was an option…what would be the advantage, if any, of a one pay?
Which state is this deal? Hard to evaluate the sales/use tax without that info
Yes, tell them to ditch the splash guards or just throw them in the deal free
The rest seems to check out
MF is right at .00056 (1.34%)
Residual checks out at 57%
Your capitalized cost is the key and includes the agreed selling price, license fees (276), doc fees (179) and sales/use tax (663) to get to 25242.48
So the lower your cap cost, the lower your payment
You have two components
Monthly depreciation charge = I assume this is your gross cap cost of $25,242.48 (lower when the splash guards go away and assuming the sales/use tax checks out) - the $15,447 residual = $9795.48/36 = $272.10
This isn’t a standardized lease contract, it’s an HFS sheet, so it’s really difficult for us to decipher. When you sign a contract use his guide:
You really don’t need to put so much thought into this IMO. Is selling price good? Yup. Not spectacular but it’s good. There are plenty of Accord Sport threads to compare to, or driveaccord.net. Any dealer add ons? Yeah the splash guards, dump them unless you live on a dirt road (I do, they were definitely needed on the Accord with the super wide tires). That’s about it my friend. The math is what the math is and they can’t cheat or lie about that.
i use a formula to determine monthly pretax amount:
—divide tax-included amount by 1(tax percent)…i.e.,
illinois+my county equals 6.25%
294.89/1.0625=277.54 pretax price…i.e., 277.54+.0625=294.89
$277 pretax and no loyalty on a new Sport 1.5T at 36/12 Seems you are doing pretty well. I had ~279+ tax on the same car last month and at most there was maybe another $10 a month to be negotiated.
Get them to drop the mud flaps or as compensation add in a couple of service vouchers and you should be golden.
For comparison a Chicago broker was $263 + tax last month. Plus license and $180 doc fees. Not counting a $350 broker fee. So you have that one beat by $10-15 a month since no broker fee
If you can get $294 all-in with tax you are doing well
And you can always buy it at the end for less than 16K
you might be amused (i was) by what the salesman said when i requested they take the mudflaps off the deal…and i quote, “99.9% of people want them on their vehicle and Honda actually wants us to add them as soon as the vehicle arrives at the dealership.”
I suppose some of them actually believe the stuff they spew all day long.
my favorite on my lease last month… “Look, we don’t opeerate that way. It is just a battle at this point to see who wants to lose the most money on this deal”
My sense is most dealers will bottom out at a selling price of about 22,500. I was lucky that due to an error from the dealer he ended up selling me the car at 21,200. This is inclusive of the 750 rebate.
The tax and tags is different for people depending on location so I will let you take care of that part of the calc - but we know the best way to negotiate is to bring down the selling price.
My advice: shop around - use quotes against each other. Don’t feel bad - there is no bro code for dealers!
My favorite was - “Could you pay this much of our luxury package so we can at least cover the labor of the poor service techs that installed the accessories”! Their charge is 995 and wanted me top pay 495. I love the numbers! I ended up buying from a dealership that does not add any of that crap and I got the lowest price!
I advised the manager to use those accessories to win an equal deal, that way they do not have to beat another dealer’s price - but don’t use it to justify your higher price - that is just idiotic.
Picked up an RS 7 (purchased) and they tried the old paint protection add on. I told them it wasn’t in the advertised price and that I don’t want it, they replied that it was already on the car and that it included some BS insurance. I told them I was leaving and they dropped it of. Something like $600 for that BS.
Hi All. If anyone can help me I would appreciate it.
I just got a quote for a Honda Accord 1.5 Sport 2019. I am considering leasing vs. buying, but I drive over 17k miles per year, so I am leaning on buying.
The dealer quoted me $290 (OTD, $0 drive off) for a 15K mile lease, as well as $330 for an 18k mile lease (OTD, $0 drive off). The other option is to buy the car for $25300 (OTD, all taxes and fees included). My only hesitation is whether I should wait for the 2020 model to come out, but not sure if I will get the same deals. There is probably some more room to negotiate too.
signed for a 2019 accord sport 1.5…sell price $23370…lease $290/mo for 36/12k…shown here with danish model…big-time thanks to everyone on the forum who helped a newbie make sense out of the process.
