i’m slugging it out with my local dealer on a 2019 honda accord sport 1.5 lease for 36/12 … the latest counteroffer from the dealer is:
*msrp $27100
*sell $23259 (13.2% discount)
*pmt/mo $295 inc. tax x 36 = $10620
*das $0
…when i run the numbers through the LH calculator, it shows monthly taxed payment should be $280 with LH score 9.1…where does it seem the $15 discrepancy lies?…also, is the offer sensible at $295/mo?
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How are we supposed to know without seeing the dealer’s worksheet and your calculator link?
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okay, i’m new to leasing and new in the forum and i’m never sure i’m asking for help the right way. i don’t have the dealer’s worksheet; he’s just put this offer (his second) on the table and i want to get a sense of whether the offer is reasonable at all…is that not possible given the info i’ve provided?..perhaps it’s a bit much to ask, though, where the $15 discrepancy lies without providing the dealer’s worksheet…btw, i’ve asked for full details but dealer won’t provide them…i get the sense he won’t until i’m at his desk working out a contract…i don’t want to work out a contract at a salesman’s desk…i get the sense that would be a mistake.
If they won’t give you all the details, find I dealer that will. Also let this dealer know that you don’t want to waste his time or yours and you will need all the details prior to coming in and signing. Feed them some crap excuse about you travel for work and can’t come in.
ok, so what exactly do i ask for?..do i say, “provide me your worksheet” for the proposed deal?
here’s my calculator link, if it helps at all.
Need to see the dealer’s worksheet to compare but I’m pretty sure the $750 incentive is already included in the sales price.
i think so, too…that money gets kicked back to the dealer from honda, correct?
Yes, dealer cash is provided from the manufacturer to the dealer and the dealer can choose to pass it along or not to the customer (in the form of a larger discount).
I would call and say, “Hey I’m interested in doing the deal however I’m getting $15 less on the payment. Send me the deal sheet so I can figure out the discrepancy and then I’ll come in”. If they say “No just come in” you can respond with, “Sorry that’s not how I work, if you change your mind let me know”. Then hang up.
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maybe i don’t understand how the LH calculator works…my understanding is the incentive ($750 in my case) is applied AFTER the selling price is established…am i missing something?
You need the breakdown with all fees, capitalized cost and to validate the national MF. Your $15-20 a month discrepancy is hidden in the missing dealer puzzle pieces
Seems you are 20-30 a month too high given you have the $750 loyalty
I didn’t pull the trigger as we went with a different car but without loyalty was at $279+tax and only first payment in Florida last month on a 1.5 Sport
Check out some of the brokers in marketplace that look to be in the 260+tax range with loyalty on a 1.5T Sport
i don’t have the 750 loyalty incentive…i have only the 750 incentive available to everyone…in my first LH calculator link posted four days ago i factored in the 750 incentive — then i got confirmation from the dealership that the incentive already is baked into the selling price…so, i had to remove the 750 from the calculator, resulting in the following deal, which is pretty much in line with the dealer’s offer, which is in the 285/mo pretax neighborhood…the deal shows an 8.1 LH score…i’m new at interpreting the LH scores but i’m of the impression that anything 8 or higher is a fair deal…i’ve asked the business manager to mail me a copy of the ahfc worksheet…haven’t heard back from him yet.
finally!…dealer sent me the honda finance worksheet for my accord sport potential deal…my initial thoughts/questions:
- can i insist they take the splash guards off the deal? options like this don’t add to residual value, not to mention they increase the price of the deal.
- sales/use tax $663 … it appears to be 2.8% of the “agreed upon value” of the car — but what is this tax? it appears on both sides of the worksheet.
- gross cap cost… should all five of these figures be included to get the gross cap cost of $25,242?
4.rent charge calculation…is this figured accurately? - current odometer reading shows as 20 on the worksheet…i doubt that’s accurate…shouldn’t i insist it be accurate?
- it’s not shown on the worksheet but the monthly pretax works out to $277.54, based on where i live.
so, does anything stand out on the worksheet as suspect, incomplete, sneaky, whatever? also, if the deal looks ethical, does it also look like a reasonable deal?
….any and all questions and comments greatly appreciated!
tim
I’m pretty new here, but I saw your other post (if you wanted to try to get more responses, perhaps better to post on this thread so that it’ll bump the entire thread up to the top of the queue… I had to look at your profile to see what you were talking about originally).
From what I’ve seen, the general consensus about Honda Accords is that it might make more sense to purchase/finance than to lease b/c Honda doesn’t really offer much in the way of subsidizing leases (in the way that BMW and Mercedes do).
Your discount looks pretty good, and the MF seems very low (are you doing a one-pay, though?). $295 seems a reasonable deal to me.
You can certainly insist that they take the splash guards off; they can, of course, decline. I can’t answer the other 4 questions you’ve posed, but have asked the dealer to explain (esp about question #5)?
what is a one pay?
when you pay the whole lease in one payment
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my potential deal is 36 payments with the first one due at signing…i didn’t know one pay was an option…what would be the advantage, if any, of a one pay?
I’m not very knowledgeable on one pay, but my understanding is certain companies give you higher savings when paying upfront.