For the Colorado credit, looks like the total amount I could get would be $2500. So that puts a huge dent in my plans hah.
Fr the federal credit, does that mean that BMW just keeps the remaining federal credit for themselves? Or do I have to just wait until I file taxes to get the rest back?
Assuming I could still get the 2500 Colorado rebate, and I would still eventually get back the full 7.5k from the Federal credit, I could still get pretty close to OP’s deal, no? My down payment would just be insanely high.
Any sense of where we stand here for June? I’m wrapping up my current lease at the end of the month and I’m highly interested in an i3 BEV. Hoping I can get a decent deal for the end of the month/end of the quarter.
I’m concerned I won’t be able to meet a lot of these extra criteria for discounts, though. I’m in the public sector so I don’t appear to have any chance at a corporate fleet ever since the AARP workaround ended, and (fortunately) I make enough that I’m not considered low-income for CVRP purposes. Even looking at an aggressive 13-14 percent off MSRP on a nearly option-free spec it looks hard to even hit $250 a month over 30 months with only registration/fees/tax down in the calculator. Any pointers, or is this the best I can hope for? (DMs are open!)
Assuming I do get the full $7500 back from BMWFS, and I can also get the $2500 from the state (either as a tax rebate or as a taxed incentive) I’m still looking at a ~$140 a month lease with $1528 due at signing. Not bad at all. I could easily make that back by renting the car out on Turo a few days a month.
Overall BMW did not do too many changes to incentives (at least the public facing ones) in June. The June numbers look pretty much like the May ones. As you said you will have to push hard on the selling price to get any sort of deal.
Also be aware of the product mix. In some areas it be hard to find a BEV- dealers all ordered REX. If your market prefers REX sometimes you can get lucky on a deal for a lonesome BEV.
Has anyone pulled off anything close to this on the east coast? I’m right out of DC in Virginia.
My deal back in 11/2016 was around $490/mo with $1k down + first payment (and -$1k equity rolled in) for a Deka trim Rex, with all options except 20" wheels (Tech, Parking, HK, Moonroof).
My advice for VA people is to go up to MD dealers for the sale. You save yourself at least $300-500 in doc fees that way. PM me if you want a contact. What sucks for Virginia is that there are no state incentives for getting an electric car. The best you can do is pay discounted personal property tax if you’re in Arlington county.
Hi,
Has anyone replicated this deal at a dealership in Southern California? I would appreciate it if you could tell me the dealerships name and if possible the sales person’s name.
Im in Orange County, California and in the market for a i3REX lease. Wanted to PM the op but for the life of me could not figure out how to do so on this forum. If anyone has any info please PM me.
Successfully made a deal on an i3 BEV this past week at the end of the month, but it didn’t seem like anybody was willing to get near the magic 15 percent marker. Ended up driving up to LA for this guy and drove it back for just shy of 12 percent off MSRP. I’m happy enough, but I’m even happier knowing with a 30 month term I’ll be better positioned to get a solid year-end deal when the term is up.
MSRP $46,895 (i3 BEV with parking package, 20" wheels, n/c paint)
Sale Price $41,500
Residual $28,606
Lease cash $7,500
Monthly pre-tax $272
Monthly post-tax $293 (at 7.75% San Diego tax)
Drive-off $2,450 (to be covered by $2,500 CVRP)
(Edit: I really should thank all of you folks for your pointers through this process - wouldn’t have even considered this without your help!)
There were a lot of caveats up top. June isn’t an especially desperate time of year for dealers, and the MSD program and AARP workaround program both disappeared since the thread first started. You can do better with corporate fleet cash but I work in the public sector, and I’m not “low-income” by CVRP standards to get the extra cash from the state assumed up top.
It’s the best I can manage in my situation and I’m quite satisfied with it and it’s likely possible for folks in different situations to do better still, but a lot of what went into the deal in the OP isn’t in play anymore.
The whole point of Leasehacking is to replicate the OPs deal or beat it. If the programs dropped like you mentioned and the numbers changed then the car becomes unworthy of leasehacking until it changes again.
Signing up for a car that is just a regular deal isn’t leasehacking. It’s just poor decision making.
Case and point, I got an brand new i3 last year for $80 a month with $1,400 drive offs no MSDs with corp fleet and loyalty on a 50k REX…You just have to wait or move on.
