Doubt it. Maybe bank was not charging or they upped the mf to waive it.
Oh right, I double checked the MF at the time and stayed the same as well.
Was a bit baffled by it when leaving, didn’t think to ask.
This was AFS btw. Maybe it’s Audi’s way of “helping” the dealer?
Lots of useful information on this thread regarding the car business.
Probably some of the best profits I’ve seen were used A3 hatch backs way back when I first started. Because they were discontinued, clients got a lot for their trade and buyers were happy to pay full KBB for them because how rare they were. It was a niche model at that time.
Worse deal I’ve seen was on an A5. When a salesman asked if the car was “clean” the client admitted that the car was clean in a literal sense… Numbers where done online and the car showed that it had a clean car fax.
When the car arrives, the WHOLE left side showed repaint and it had obviously been in a huge accident. Even the doors don’t close properly. Accident happened recently and for some reason carfax didn’t pick it up.
We still honored the deal but I remember we probably lost $6k from the auction, and we probably had a net loss of $3k from the new car to try and make up the used car trade in value.
Client knew what he was doing though but that’s our fault for not being clear with the verbiage. We just bit the bullet and moved on. From then on everyone would ask a prospect client with a trade “if the car has been in any prior accidents” and final trade number is dependent on a physical inspection. That salesman still kept his job and everyone made fun of him for a while.
Not much really since most clients don’t even pick up their phones. Usually just emails for the most part or text messages. Once they get closer to making a deal then a phone call is more efficient.
If clients would just pick up their phones it would save both parties SO MUCH TIME.
Are you paying interest charges on the tax, fees, and licence, when you “sign and drive” a lease?
You are taxed on the down or drive offs already. Yes if you roll the drives to payment you will pay interest
Thanks, I just learned that the interest isn’t that much.
Thanks, I replied to the wrong comment.
Haven’t read far enough yet to see if this was answered. But it doesn’t work that way. The MSDs reduce the buy rate (in this case the .00003) so the rate is too low to use MSDs and lower the rate. Also, if the dealer agrees to mark-up the rate, they do not get 100% of the mark-up there is a split on the mark-up between the bank and the dealer, on a ease anyway, (typically 75%, if I remember correctly. Say for arguments sake that the increase of the MF from .00003 to .00103 equates to $2,000 exactly then the dealer only gets 75% of that meaning in an apples to apples comparison it would result in a $500 worse deal for the dealer.
This reminds me of a cask purchase hack. If you are looking to buy a car cash and want to get a better deal, find yourself a dealer who is willing to play as you described above. Get them to mark up the MF to the maximum allowed and offer you an ADDITIONAL discount to the already negotiated price equal to the money they will make on the back end off of the rate increase. Then, pay the car off at the bank right away and you don’t pay any of the interest but you have already locked in the lower price. In you example above, you would save an additional $1,500 (more if yu had the mark-up to the max). However, don’t forget to also waive acquisition fee (and take the higher rate) otherwise it will eat into your gains.
Waiving the Acquisition fee will always result in an increase to the MF (unless there was some new promotion where the acquisition fee is waived - but I have never heard of that). What most likely happened is that the money factor was already marked up above the buy rate. By waiving the acqu. fee the dealer just made less profit on the back-end. He probably just didn’t want the deal to look any worse on the front end.
In the case of GM Financial, they are the party offering to waive the acquisition fee in lieu of a higher MF. Dealer has nothing to do with it other than clicking the box on the computer.
@IvanAudi - I hope everybody will forgive me as I’m new to this forum and if there is a private messenging option I can’t find it. Can you please send me your email address? I’m in the market for a new Q5 Prestige and the people I’ve been dealing with want to engage in the back-and-forth BS dance. I don’t have time for all that. Your posts give me the impression you want to cut through the BS and get to the bottom line. Thanks!
Please text me at 626-646-9882
How do you handle a dealer trade when one comes up? In other words, Customer wants a specific car that Dealer A has. How do you determine what to give them in return? Do they request something? Do you try to give them something comparable? Do you give them something that’s been rotting on your lot to get it off your floor plan?
And as a follow up to this, what’s a dealer’s perspective on the effort and aggravation of a car swap? I’ve seen cars swapped that included multiple hour rides, but I also had a dealer recently tell me that for the deal they were giving me, they wanted me to take a car from their inventory, or wanted to charge me a “fee” to get a different one from 1+ hour away.
I read on here that its cheaper to lease SQ5 than Q5…how likely is this?
also, is it reasonable to aim for monthly payment of 1% of MSRP for Q5?
I have to confirm the statement about manufacturers & dealers playing it safe with high end car colors! Last night I was looking at the 2017 Ford Mustang catalog and was puzzled to see that 54% of all the 15 GT350 car color combinations are black or dark grey, or light grey, 67% are black, dark blue, or dark/light grey! The lower end cars offer a much wider selection of colors!
Dealer trades are generally case by case.
The other dealer will tell you what they are looking for back and at times thats a negotiation itself. If you are looking for something rare they will want something rare back as well. They try to not take old inventory because of potential for lot damage.
I recently got a great deal on a Ford on 2/28/2018. Part of the reason was that the car was a 2017 which was there 6 months+ (I found out from the application date for the HOV stickers), a base Energi model with many ($4400 in) options. The internet saleswoman mentioned I was only getting that great deal because it was the last day of the month. I didn’t say anything. I did this on purpose because I listened to a radio show on NPR (this american life) about how car dealers often try to make a certain sales amount to get a manufacturer bonus at the end of the month: https://www.thisamericanlife.org/513/129-cars
My question is : Why would they do this at the same time every month? Why not move the deadline around so that the customer (like myself) could not time their purchase, like I did?