It was a very low miles USED Rover.
Thought it was a bargain, but buyer beware is the key lesson learned.
It was a very low miles USED Rover.
Well, back to square one… Hope somebody with insider knowledge can answer: Do dealers have a set process to thoroughly inspect loaners prior to selling them? For example, do manufacturers “require” to make sure loaners are as good as new? Take CPO for example, many manufacturers guarantee the car is not salvaged, all maintenance were timely etc. Similar rules apply to loaners too?
If the car is not going through certification then it is just a safety check to make sure the fluids are topped off and brakes are within safe parameters.
A car cannot be certified if it has a bad car fax, show prior paint work, and tires/brakes/rotors must be 50% or newer. Every manufacturer are different so I can only speak for Audi.
At least from an Audi dealership stand point, these service loaners are loaned out to clients who bring their car in for service. I really don’t imagine our clients abusing the cars since most of them are business professionals who are just using it to drive to work and back.
After 5-7k miles we retired them and put them on the lot for sale. If something were to go wrong it is covered under warranty.
Dealerships are not required to disclose any prior damages on a USED car so please buy with caution, especially when a deal seems too good to be true.
Do your due diligence to inspect the car ESPECIALLY if it’s not certified. Don’t rely on CARFAX alone. With that being said though, most dealerships do not resale cars with prior damage, they would appraise it based on what the car might fetch at auction and it would end up there to avoid the headache of and unhappy client and future repairs. It is not worth the dealerships time and reputation to sell a bad car.
These cars will end up at mom and pop shops in most cases so I would be even more careful when purchasing a used car there.
However on a new car, a dealership must disclose any damages over ~$1,000. Don’t quote me on this but its around that amount.
I’ll second this question. Being in WA and having my lease coming to its maturity date in several months from now I’m curious if it’s even worth to read this forum and get my blood boiled when my local deal gets to be 60% worse compared to glorious SoCal. I’m exaggerating here but the principal question stands. Are CA dealerships able and anyhow motivated to do the out of state deals?
They are as motivated as any dealership to do a sale, in state or out. Some dealerships aren’t set up to do out of state deals, or don’t want to bother, however, due to the extra paperwork with titling/temp registrations/local taxing/etc. With that said, many are as willing to take your $$$ as the dealership down the street from you is. I’ve puechased a couple cars out of state.
Thanks for being open to feedback. I hope you can share some perspective for some of my burning questions. I’ve only been on the forums for about 3 weeks and after reading 6k+ posts, it seems that these “unicorn” deals are only posted by a handful of people.
There are some who have successfully negotiated over email (which boggles my mind) vs at the dealership but, fundamentally these managers heuristically respond positively or negatively after the concessions are done.
What is the primary driver/motivation for Sales Managers or GM’s to accept these low margin, break-even or potential loss deals? I’ve been shown the door or have been ignored trying to replicate these deals and there has to be a better way.
Either you live in an area where dealerships don’t need these deals or your perception of what a “good deal” is unrealistic given the make/model.
Also how you negotiate. If you’re too aggressive and you have a take it or leave it approach then most dealerships won’t want to work with you.
I was informed by an Audi Dealer that the 1st security deposit does not count towards the buy down. Can anyone confirm this?
@IvanAudi, here’s one for you, although I would assume it may vary between captives.
Let’s say you ground a car with 2-3 months remaining and initiate a new lease, rolling those payments in. For whatever reason, the deal gets unwound and dealer doesn’t buy your old car/hasn’t been picked up for auction. Can you “unground” a car and continue the old lease?
It’s very rare a deal will get unwound especially if you signed the docs and took delivery of the car. But in a case where you are waiting for an incoming car and they made you sign the docs, a manager will make note of that and make sure you take delivery of your new vehicle before they have the manufacturer pick up the vehicle.
But yes, we can call Audi and tell them to “unground” the car and you are responsible for the remaining payments.
Can you confirm if A4 non-tech Ultras have been sold out for several months.
I see a few companies (Nissan, Toyota) that have military rebates, but they are only good within one year of discharge for veterans. Are they pretty strict on those time frames, or can some dealers find a way to stretch that?
How well are those R8 RWS moving? I guess my question is what’s the discount looking like, if any?
Yes those are pretty much sold out
It’s different for every manufacturer. Audi use to have a military program but not any more
From my understanding they are selling for over sticker currently. Finding one at MSRP would be a good deal unfortunately.
Question for internet manager:
-At the same dealership, will the internet manager always, always beat the traditional salesmen (that stand around the lot) in sales price?
Meaning, if two people were sent into a dealership asking about the same car, one went to the internet sales, the other went with the traditional “salesmen”, will the both of them come out with the same price if they gave it their best effort?
Internet will always be lower. At best if the sales person on the floor worked the deal correctly it will be just as good as internet pricing but there will be a lot of negotiating in person.