Pardon my newness to this board… I’m trying my hardest to keep up with the lingo!
I did a little research here and went into my local Infiniti dealer last night to take a first glance. I am not stuck on any particular package/color etc, although I know I want a QX60 Luxe and not a Pure.
I told the dealer I would qualify for the conquest program, and that I was interested in keeping my payment in the 300’s per month.
I mentioned that I would be willing to do MSD’s and he came back and told me that they wouldn’t be able to do it. I live in Central, NJ (Monmouth County). Any reason why he’d come back and tell me no? Something about the money factor being too low?
Be kind. I’m new here. Go easy on me please… I’ve tried searching this site, but don’t see any legit reasons why they would say no.
Thanks for any help… Oh, and I am willing to trade in my Hyundai Veracruz to lower my payments as well. I don’t want to play the female card, but I don’t want them to underestimate me because I am a woman. I want to go in there with facts, numbers, and information.
A few great brokers have posted deal for QX60 recently. You may want to speak to them. Search “QX60” you will see their posts. Believe at least 2 are serving NJ/NY areas.
Don’t quote me, but I want to say that the Money Factor looked like it was .00038? Does that sound right? I wasn’t willing to make a deal right then and there, so I didn’t take the paper or even take a photo of it.
The numbers they gave me on the 2019 Luxe AWD was a $1942 due at signing (tax, doc fees, tire fees, first month payment, registration) and $425 a month.
It was a 58% residual (that I remembered), and the said the residual price of the vehicle would be $28,800
I think for the infiniti’s right now the MF is so low it doesn’t make sense to do MSD’s you would probably save like a dollar or 2 per month. To my understanding MSD’s are used to lower the MF or interest. You can go to the marketplace and look at the qx60 deals posted and play with the lease calculator.
The unsaid rule for Lease Hacking is never step foot in the dealership to negotiate the deal.
Now QX60 this month has a MF which varies based on model and so does the residual.
The best Value is the Pure model with 60% residual and 0.00086 MF which can be bought down to 0.00006 with 8 MSDs. NJ definitely allows MSD so if any dealer says otherwise, let them know that you will only do the deal with MSD. If you are shopping for other models like QX50 or Q50 the MF is 0.00003 which cant be brought down any further with MSD.
Now coming to the Luxe you are shopping, the MF for that vehicle is 0.00035 which can be brought down to 0.00005 after 3 MSD. Get 16-17% off MSRP before VPP and conquest and if you qualify for those, that is 1500 each and you have your selling price. Just punch all the numbers you get into the calculator on homepage and you have your monthly payment.
Don’t pay crazy Doc fees or any other add-on fees.
Now do all your negotiations over phone or email and only go to dealership to pickup the vehicle.
Should I just choose the car I want from online dealer inventory (the one most local to me is in West Long Branch) and work the numbers the way you said to?
Add on fees, I agree with. Doc fee…unless you’re saying don’t pay it as a line item as a matter of principle, it’s somewhat misleading. They’ll pad the doc into the deal, so you’ll end up paying it anyways, just not as a “doc fee” line item, so it’s a 6 in one, half dozen the other scenario.
On the Q50, yes. MF is virtually 0 so you can’t do MSDs since you can’t go lower.
On the SUVs, MF is good but still high enough that MSDs make a difference.
Also, sometimes it’s just an issue that dealers don’t know what they are. When I leased an Audi a few months ago, the salesman had no idea what an MSD was.
You do not want to trade in your car to lower your monthly payments. They will use that as a way to make you think you are getting a good deal. always always always negotiate the selling price, not the monthly. They can make you put a lot of money down to get the monthly down, but you won’t actually be saving any money because you had already put it down. I suggest reading the Leasing 101 section especially the “Down Payment” section: https://leasehackr.com/blog/2015/9/19/8-things-you-should-know-before-leasing-a-new-car
What if I negotiated the deal and then threw the car in as a factor in the end? Almost like “I’ll put this towards the doc fees, first month, taxes, etc”. I won’t need the car, and it’d probably be a hassle to sell privately.
I understand what you mean by padding it in the sales price and we have had discussion over it in the past. Lets not go there again as this thread is about Amy getting her deal done.
@MrsRossIsMe
Amy, You don’t need to bring the trade in picture until everything is finalized (which you should do over phone/email for the lease). Than tell them to get you the best offer for your trade for which you will have to go there so they can inspect your vehicle. They will most likely low ball knowing you are getting another vehicle. At that point you can let them know that if you are not going to get the fair amount for trade, you will walk away from the deal. If you agree with their offer just ask them to apply the value of trade towards your MSD, taxes and other ancillary items.
Go easy on me please… I’ve tried searching this site, but don’t see any legit reasons why they would say no.