I heard back from the first dealer that they wont’ do a one-pay.
“We unfortunately can’t do a one pay option, with the rebates and incentives Nissan doesn’t allow us to process the leases with a one pay.”
Sounds like a bunch of bs but I’m curious if anyone who knows something can chime in on this?
You aim for a target payment, then work backwards via the calculator based on the incentives you qualify for to find your needed MSRP discount.
So here’s a sample equation:
The variable number is the discount, the incentives, MF, residual, MSRP are all fixed.
For leases, $7500 rebate is given to all banks. Many of them choose to pass them onto the customer. There’s no requirement at all to get the $7500 besides 1. It’s a lease and 2. The leasing bank chooses to give it.
I believe Colorado rebate can be taken Point of Sale or post sale rebate, but you need to check yourself.
I theoretically know what they can give me. Should be something alone these lines: CALCULATOR | LEASEHACKR
But they came back via email with a bs number ($389/mo with 0 down) that doesn’t show me the MF which they probably inflated, and the discount was next to nothing, and they said no one pay or MSD’s like my calculator. Turns out the state credit is $5600 that they will give me which is better than the $5k the state advertises.
However, notice the calculator has a negative number for depreciation which won’t actually work because NMAC wouldn’t finance that. So what are people doing when the rebate total is so big that the residual is higher than what your current ‘buy’ price is?
You should be able to get a pretty sweet deal after the incentives.
Any particular reason you are doing MSDs given how little difference in the MF it is making?
This only applies on consumer purchases. There is no made in the USA requirement when we’re talking about the tax credit the lessor gets when they purchase the vehicle to lease it to you.
Hi. I’m one of the people that posted an under $100 a month deal for an Ariya.
I want to give you a heads up because I think sometimes the fact that we see a bunch of good deals in one place makes it seem like it shouldn’t be THAT hard to score a similar deal.
IT IS VERY HARD.
You have to put in a lot of leg work, you have to have a tough skin, and you have to be flexible.
Hard Work - You’re going to have to reach out to a ton of dealers and sometimes you’ll need to expand your search farther out than you expected. A lot of dealers are going to laugh in your face. Some dealers won’t even respond to you. Some will but they won’t meet your ask.
Tough Skin - You can’t take any of that personally. A no is just a no. You say thanks and you move on to the next dealer. No single dealer owes you that great deal.
Adapt - You seem pretty set on One Pay and MSDs. Some dealers just won’t do them and quite frankly it shouldn’t be the hill you die on. I don’t think I saw very many of the sub 100 deals for Ariyas that where one pay but if a dealer is coming close to your target monthly effective do you really need to one pay it?
Hope this helps you find the deal you want!
I’m trying to get a deal but no one is playing ball yet. One problem I’m having is that the depreciation number is negative so NMAC wouldn’t finance it. So I’m wondering if I tell a dealer to make it work so they finance it and then the dealer just writes me a check for the difference - would this work lol? You can see in the calculator here: CALCULATOR | LEASEHACKR
The calculator is showing that multiple MSDs makes a huge difference in the effective monthly price - check it out for yourself and change it.
Yeah, you are correct I think. Ultimately I just care if I get the $7500 off or not, and Nissan is doing that for the 2024s. The 2023 they do it only in certain regions like southeast I’ve seen but not in Colorado.
Should I negotiate on the price first, then hound in on the money factor, MSD’s, and one-pay potential? That one-pay and MSD’s is really what could bring this down from ~$200/mo effective to ~$130/mo effective. But I guess dealers don’t care for one-pays huh? I flew out to Phoenix to lease my current Nissan Frontier Pro 4-X because it was $277/mo effective all in with sales tax too and all fees - it was a one pay with MSDs. But I’d rather stick to my home state of Colorado for simplicity.
I think you will be hard pressed to find an Ariya in the state of CO that qualifies for the $2000 Nissan summer event bonus cash. That money is for select aged units. Ariyas in CO are not aged inventory and if by some chance they are, something is wrong.
Oh that’s interesting. I just assumed all '24 Ariyas. How am I supposed to know which VIN’s qualify? 
Should I be verifying with a dealer the incentive rebates BEFORE I even work on the price?
“eligible MY 24 vehicle” well how do I know what is eligible lol? Apparently it is for select aged units but I have no way of knowing what would qualify I guess without asking the dealer.
Is it common practice to verify all rebates beforehand to not waste time? If I negotiate price first only to find out the rebate isn’t included for the particular vehicle, then that wastes time, but I’ve heard people say focus on the price first before incentive rebates, MF etc.
In the state of CO, rebates are $14,100 with loyalty. Leave it at that. Trying to find one with additional $2k is a waste of time.
Only you can answer whether one-pay and/or MSDs are worth it so if they are of great value to you, ask that question first before discussing numbers. With that said, work up a structure with buy rate, residual and expected discount so that you’re ready to go should they accept your initial terms.
Dont beat around the bush and don’t try to whittle down one area and then another.
Spell out your offer in unambiguous terms and just tell the dealer the deal you are willing to do.
Stop trying to make this more difficult than it needs to be.
When you push for a very aggressive deal, your only value to the dealer is to be the quickest, easiest way for them to increase their sales volume. The more work you want them to do with pointless back and forth, the more you degrade your only value.
Well first thing is to find the correct trim/model. I myself haven’t shopped around for Ariya so I can’t tell you which one is the best lease. But just looking at what you are trying to replicate, other people have an MF of 0.00097, while you have it at 0.00301. Maybe start with that. Figure out which trim/models have the best deal and see if you can get one of those. That way you would not need that big of a discount that your depreciation is negative. Plus if your depreciation is negative, you are already aiming for an unrealistic deal. So maybe align your expectations to what is possible. Put a $0 depreciation in your calculator to see what the lowest possible payment you can get on these.
You really dont need a new thread for every little detail of this deal
OP - keep all your relevant posts to one topic/thread
I hear you there and that was my line of thinking too. I reached out and spelled it out precisely with the sale price, money factor, MSDs, one pay, rebates etc and they replied with a generic price sheet that hides everything and had an effective monthly of 3x what it should be.
Then I researched more on the forum and some people say focus on the price first, then get into the details. So there appears to be no consensus.
Unfortunately those are for 18 month leases in other parts of the country. In Colorado to get the $5k tax credit it has to be 24 month leases. Nissan knows that I guess so then they play games with their MF here. Everyone is saying how Colorado should be the best place to get the Ariya but I’m not seeing that now since dealers are putting this at $350+/mo effective.